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  1. #1
    Senior Member Rohnsman's Avatar
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    We've had a good thread (and this isn't the first on this topic) about how to pick a good battery for your TW and how to best care for it. Shelling out $40-50 each season for a new battery shouldn't be necessary if we share information. Follow the link below to share your information and we can all learn what works best.



    > > TAKE OUR BATTERY SURVEY < <

  2. #2
    Moderator vuldub's Avatar
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    I haven't bought a new battery in 4 years and it's still strong. I have several CT hondas, with notorious battery death issues and as long as I remove them for the winter, keep the fluid topped up with distilled water, and ensure they are charged then they survive. It they lose their charge (can't tell you the lowest voltage) they will never recover. I use a CTEK Multi 3300 charger, which is the best you can find.
    Regards...Wes
    In the Stable: 73 Honda CT90,81 Honda CT110,81 Honda CT70,04 Yamaha TW200,07 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500

  3. #3
    Banned qwerty's Avatar
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    Truelight, you're beating this battery thing to death.



    Batteries die from:

    Extreme temperature.

    Low electrolyte level.

    Excessive discharge level.

    Excessive charge cycles.

    Excessive charge rate or time.



    Deal with those variables. Nothing else matters as far as maintenance. This goes for any lead-acid technology: wet-cell, gell, AGM, etc.



    I'm switching to Chinese AGMs on every application as the lead-acid batteries die. Get your new TW battery here.



    Get an appropriate charger here. Sad thing is, other than the high-dollar programmables, it's very difficult to actually find a charger with a low enough current capacity that a TW battery isn't at risk of damage from excessive current. I've done that difficult work for you. If you don't want to do business with Tower Hobbies, just google HCAP0210. I apologize for not taking the time to find an appropriate charger already equipped with alligator clips. You do it.



    Finally, you'll need a timer to do your daily charge session.



    Okay, I've sent you to a battery with which you don't have to dork with filling the electrolyte, a charger that has an output 17% of the battery's amp/hour rating, and a timer to turn the charger off and on autonatically. What more could you possibly want?




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  5. #4
    Senior Member TW2007's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vuldub View Post
    I haven't bought a new battery in 4 years and it's still strong. I have several CT hondas, with notorious battery death issues and as long as I remove them for the winter, keep the fluid topped up with distilled water, and ensure they are charged then they survive. It they lose their charge (can't tell you the lowest voltage) they will never recover. I use a CTEK Multi 3300 charger, which is the best you can find.




    I have had similar experiences (same song second verse).



    Mike



    The TW200 may be slow but the Earth is patient.

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  6. #5
    Senior Member elime's Avatar
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    Speaking of chargers, I use a Float Charger from Harbor Freight that was on sale at the local outlet for $4.99.



    http://www.harborfre...rger-42292.html



    Now I know I should be beaten severely about the head and neck and sent to bed without supper for asking such a stupid question, but what if anything is wrong with it?



    I did modify the positive wire on the charger by removing the alligator clip and replacing it with one of those male/female plugs one finds on computers and running a wire to the positive battery terminal. I painted the plug red so all would know it was positive. I have a second male plug to fill the hole when riding.



    Long live the internal combustion engine!

  7. #6
    Banned qwerty's Avatar
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    A "float" charge is just a reduced charge rate. The idea is to replace the charge at the same rate a battery self-discharges. Most chargers will give the output in volts and amps or volts and milliamps, such as "13.7 volts, 5 amps". Sometimes the advertisinf will state the charger is for a 12 volt battery and just give the amps or milliamps, For instance, the charger I keep linking to lists its output as "120mAh", which means 120 milliamps/hour, in this case the "per hour" is extraneous. A float charger will sometimes give the output in volts, then a range for the amps and milliamps, such as "13.7 volts, "0.5-15 amps", which means the float charge rate is still too high for a TW battery to be charged, and the dead battery charge rate is enough to cause the battery to literally boil inside. This is not unusual--float chargers and trickle chargers sold for cars are often excessively powerful for small batteries. Just because the advertising copy claims a charger is sized for motosport or motorcycle use doesn't mean it fits the needs of a TW-size battery, though it may be fine for a bigger bike.



    All chargers in the U. S. of A. are required by law to have their output marked on them. Find the ouput ratings marked on the charger. If any are above 14 volts or 0.4 amps, they are too powerful for a TW battery. Output ratings are the only way to properly size a charger of any type.



    Tony, I'll make no comment on your charger because not even the manual gives the output amps or milliamps. Perhaps the label on the charger itself will provide the ouput amperage. If it's more than 0.4 amps or 400 milliamps, it's too hot for a TW battery.




  8. #7
    Senior Member jbfla's Avatar
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    Here's the battery that replaced the stock flooded cell lead-acid battery. It's an AGM (absorbed glass mat) no name clone of a Yuasa YTZ7S.



    I purchased it about a year after I acquired my TW. The stock battery was still good. I replaced it because I wanted a battery that would not leak in a tip over, and that I did not need to worry about checking the electrolyte level.







    Here's the same battery 4+ years after purchase (purchase date 2/22/07)

    It has been sitting on the shelf (no charger) since I removed it from the TW about 2 weeks ago when I put in the Shorai battery.







    The AGM has been kept alive by this 800ma Waterproof Battery Tender charger during the ~5 months it sits in winter hibernation each year.







    The old AGM will go in my Honda generator, and kept on the 800ma Battery Tender until needed.



    Here's the Shorai lithium-iron battery that replaced the old AGM.

    I have decided not to keep it on a charger during storage to see if it lives up to the manufacturer's claims.







    jb
    2018 Triumph Street Twin..............2016 CB500F
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  9. #8
    Senior Member fishhuntr1's Avatar
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    I installed a Yuasa knock-off AGM the beginning of this season. Not quite the amp*hours, but more cranking amps than the flooded battery it replaced. The TW cranks very nice and shelf life is much improved.



    A couple pieces of stiff foam (cut from water pipe insulation) to make up the space difference. IIRC I shimmed it upwards with a piece of styrofoam as well.

  10. #9
    Senior Member Rohnsman's Avatar
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    Tons of good information here. What I've still not seen (but could have missed it with a thread this extensive), is how much and how long to leave a battery on the charger? In my case, I used the Harbor Freight Float charger and left it plugged into the battery (which was in the bike and in a cold garage) 24/7 during the past 3 winter months. A couple of times over the winter I started the bike (which always started just fine). I'd then plug 'er back in and let it go.



    This spring, it was the long ride across town (lot's of stop and go riding, idling at traffic lights, blinkers frequently running) that seemed too much for the system. Given that my system seems to output less than 12v at idle (though over that at higher revs), my guess is that more drain than charge is happening in that kind of riding. Maybe a longer high rev ride would be different ?



    Anyway... my question is this... If I do use a lower amp "proper" charger, when is the right time to use it and for how long each time? I would think that a properly running TW ridden fairly often ought to be able to keep the battery happy w/o a charger at all, no? So... assmung my bike charging system is working (which I'm not sure of), do I need a charger at all? If so, when and how much?



    Oh yeah Qwerty... your "tone" in your replies seems a bit condescending. When I finally "get it" on this subject, I'll stop asking questions. Others seem to be finding this thread useful. I bow to your knowledge of TWs, but play nice or don't reply. You may think I'm "beating this topic to death," but I'm still learning.

    <Rant Mode off>

  11. #10
    Senior Member Rohnsman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jbfla View Post
    Here's the battery that replaced the stock flooded cell lead-acid battery. It's an AGM (absorbed glass mat) no name clone of a Yuasa YTZ7S.



    I purchased it about a year after I acquired my TW. The stock battery was still good. I replaced it because I wanted a battery that would not leak in a tip over, and that I did not need to worry about checking the electrolyte level.







    Here's the same battery 4+ years after purchase (purchase date 2/22/07)

    It has been sitting on the shelf (no charger) since I removed it from the TW about 2 weeks ago when I put in the Shorai battery.







    The AGM has been kept alive by this 800ma Waterproof Battery Tender charger during the ~5 months it sits in winter hibernation each year.







    The old AGM will go in my Honda generator, and kept on the 800ma Battery Tender until needed.



    Here's the Shorai lithium-iron battery that replaced the old AGM.

    I have decided not to keep it on a charger during storage to see if it lives up to the manufacturer's claims.







    jb


    During the ~5 months your battery was connected to the Battery Tender, did you leave it conected and running 24/7 ?

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