Learned a few things about the TDub Yesterday
Close
    
    
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 20
  1. #1
    Senior Member chipyting's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Eugene, Oregon
    Posts
    264
    I got the bike new in December and now have over 4000 miles on it, and in that time i've only used spray on chain wax on the chain. It was recommended to me by the guy at the shop. I ran out of the spray and decided to use oil and am I glad I did, the bike rolls so much more freely now and has better acceleration. Was was I doing to my chain, poor thing. Also I learned that my reserve tank goes to 45 miles, I was impressed because I was under the impression that you may get 10-15 miles out of it, a pleasant surprise. I'm still learning every day. This is a great/fun bike.

  2. #2
    Banned qwerty's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    NW Tennessee
    Posts
    10,664
    Whomever recommended chain wax for an open chain is an idiot. Chain wax is an excellent product for preventing rust, but provides next to no lubrication. Therefore, chain wax is a great product for ringed chains that carry their lubrication sealed inside. The wax congeals to form a weatherproof coat to prevent rust and usually dries with too little tackiness for dirt and crud to cling to it.



    Open chains need lubrication. Motor oil is good, but tends to sling off, making a huge mess. Oil is also sticky, causing dirt and crud to stick to the chain, making it difficult to keep clean. Soaking in a degreaser is a good way to clean an oiled chain, and requires time after cleaning for the degreaser to dripp off and dry up. Oil is also too viscous to penetrate between the pins and rollers unless heated, meaning the chain must be removed from the bike for proper lubrication.



    What you need is something that goes on thin, penetrates well, doesn't sling off, and cures to a non-sticky surface that won't hold dirt. Such a product is available from Walmart for under $5 a can. Champion Chain Lube Multi-Purpose Spray Grease by Federal-Mogul is the exact name of the product. It meets the needs of both open and ringed chains, is cheap, is easily dissolved with SeaFoam Deep Creep and wiped off with a rag for quick cleaning on the bike, is cheap, comes in a big enough can to last quite a while, is cheap, a little goes a long way, and did I mention it's cheap? this stuff is a lithium grease dissolved in a thin carrier that penetrates then quickly evaporates. Best way to use it is to clean he chain with SeaFoam Deep Creep and a rag after riding when the chain is warm. The DeepCreep floats dirt and crud off metal instead of making it stick like other penetrating oils. Let the Deep Creep evaporate, which can be hurried along by a short ride which leaves the chain warm so that the Chain Lube thins from the heat and penetrates well, plus dries faster to a sling-off resistant, waterproof, non-sticky coating.




  3. #3
    Super Moderator goldenhtr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Stanwood,Wa
    Posts
    1,903
    And don't forget to clean your chain real good.





    http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/chain-pickle/
    A very very wise man once said “it’s more fun to ride a slow bike fast, than a fast bike slow”.

    "Now then get your weapons... and go out to the open country to hunt some wild game for me"
    Gen:27:3

    “I've noticed that everyone who is for abortion has already been born.”
    -Ronald Reagan

  4. Remove Advertisements
    TW200Forum.com
    Advertisements
     

  5. #4
    Senior Member lizrdbrth's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Desert, SoCal
    Posts
    7,369
    Quote Originally Posted by goldenhtr View Post
    And don't forget to clean your chain real good.





    http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/chain-pickle/


    "I don't want a pickle, just wannacleanthechain my motorsickle.............."



    I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you.

    Powdercoated '87 frame, extended swingarm, YZ fork legs, ATV tire, 14/55, XT350 tank, spliced quick-release seat, disc brake conversion, beeg headlight, beeger rack, Lizrdcooler, Lizrdventz and bunch of other stuff all covered in invisible ink.

    Hidden Content

    Hidden Content

  6. #5
    Senior Member PalmStateCrawler's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Cayce, SC
    Posts
    3,109
    Whats up with the cleaning pickle? :-!
    '13 690 Enduro R too many frickin farkles...
    '07 KLX250 farkled (wife's bike)
    '86 BW80 farkled to size
    '10 TW200 you will be missed

  7. #6
    Senior Member Malkop's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Lion's River, South Africa
    Posts
    352
    Shew! qwerty is an expert on materials and lube etc. I began to panic about my chainwax, when Chip got going about it. But then figured that I noticed no difference in performance since I switched from chainsaw oil to chainwax. But then I have an o-ring chain. qwerty can't tell anything but a theoretical difference between the performance of an open and closed chain on a TW but the servicing of the two is hugely different. I am riding on mostly dirt and dust and would sacrifice some performance to save major hassle.



    Malcolm

  8. #7
    Senior Member peter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Providenciales, Turks & Caicos
    Posts
    398
    I use graphite to lube the chain. Any comments (good or bad) on that? A friend of mine uses it on the drives on sewage plants. Normally pretty costly but got a quart for next to nothing.

  9. #8
    Senior Member lizrdbrth's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Desert, SoCal
    Posts
    7,369
    I've tried everything from automatic chain oilers (back in the day) to ATF, Chainwax, gear oils, silcone-based sprays, graphites, Teflon and dangnear anything that's ever been rumored to be "the next big thing" over the years. In order to save my few remaining brain cells I've concluded that the big "secret" to chain life is a quality chain in the first place. Spend the money initially and you can use spit, yak oil or bear grease to maintain it (as long as you do it often enough) and it will outlast a cheap chain 2-to-1.



    I run quality chains and use nothing more fancy than synthetic gear oil on them when they're at home and I can allow them to shed the excess overnight. When on road trips I use either ATF or motor oil on them at least every other gas stop, sometimes in between.



    Tensile strength is your best shot at chain life as it's your only meaningful indicator of quality materials. This has nothing to do with whether or not a TW NEEDS a high tensile chain due to its awesome, groundpounding torque and horsepower. High tensile means low, to no stretch. Stretch is the enemy of chains and sprockets, so ignore the brand names and the gold anodizing and "W-X-Y-Z-rings" and try to find the true tensile strength and buy the highest you can afford.



    That's not to discount Qwerty's tech info. Being aware of the theory behind what will save the o-rings will definitely pay dividends, and your chain will probably live even longer than mine. But buy a good'n. The stocker starts draining your wallet and eating sprockets from Mile 1.



    I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you.

    Powdercoated '87 frame, extended swingarm, YZ fork legs, ATV tire, 14/55, XT350 tank, spliced quick-release seat, disc brake conversion, beeg headlight, beeger rack, Lizrdcooler, Lizrdventz and bunch of other stuff all covered in invisible ink.

    Hidden Content

    Hidden Content

  10. #9
    Senior Member ronnydog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Poway CA.
    Posts
    2,102
    Quote Originally Posted by lizrdbrth View Post
    I've tried everything from automatic chain oilers (back in the day) to ATF, Chainwax, gear oils, silcone-based sprays, graphites, Teflon and dangnear anything that's ever been rumored to be "the next big thing" over the years. In order to save my few remaining brain cells I've concluded that the big "secret" to chain life is a quality chain in the first place. Spend the money initially and you can use spit, yak oil or bear grease to maintain it (as long as you do it often enough) and it will outlast a cheap chain 2-to-1.



    I run quality chains and use nothing more fancy than synthetic gear oil on them when they're at home and I can allow them to shed the excess overnight. When on road trips I use either ATF or motor oil on them at least every other gas stop, sometimes in between.



    Tensile strength is your best shot at chain life as it's your only meaningful indicator of quality materials. This has nothing to do with whether or not a TW NEEDS a high tensile chain due to its awesome, groundpounding torque and horsepower. High tensile means low, to no stretch. Stretch is the enemy of chains and sprockets, so ignore the brand names and the gold anodizing and "W-X-Y-Z-rings" and try to find the true tensile strength and buy the highest you can afford.



    That's not to discount Qwerty's tech info. Being aware of the theory behind what will save the o-rings will definitely pay dividends, and your chain will probably live even longer than mine. But buy a good'n. The stocker starts draining your wallet and eating sprockets from Mile 1.




    Bear fat!



    Ronnydog

  11. #10
    Banned qwerty's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    NW Tennessee
    Posts
    10,664
    lizrdbrth is right about buying a good quality chain being the key to long life. Yamaha recommends chain maintenance every 300 miles. I'm sorry, I simply don't have time to stop, remove the chain, clean it in solvent, let it dry, then soak it in heated oil and reinstall it two or even three times a day. I'd rather ride than do chain maintenance. Your choice may be different.



    Give me low maintenance. Low maintenance means a ringed chain. The higher the tensile strength the better.




Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Sponosred Links

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Similar Threads

  1. Banshee Shock - Lessons Learned
    By immgunn in forum Performance and Customization
    Replies: 57
    Last Post: 05-23-2013, 07:22 AM
  2. Yesterday was a good day .....
    By TW-Brian in forum General Discussion
    Replies: 18
    Last Post: 03-16-2013, 11:00 AM
  3. 2 pics from yesterday
    By koonercat in forum Trails, Off-road, and Adventure Riding
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 07-11-2012, 09:42 AM
  4. Yesterday was a Big TDub Day
    By Malkop in forum General Discussion
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 09-21-2011, 06:09 AM
  5. Learned a new skill today.
    By qwerty in forum Off-Topic
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 08-28-2011, 02:33 PM