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Thread: Oil Stabilizer

  1. #1
    Senior Member PalmStateCrawler's Avatar
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    Worth the 8 bucks per oil change or is it mainly for high performance bikes?
    '13 690 Enduro R too many frickin farkles...
    '07 KLX250 farkled (wife's bike)
    '86 BW80 farkled to size
    '10 TW200 you will be missed

  2. #2
    Senior Member RodneyReed's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JdubSC View Post
    Worth the 8 bucks per oil change or is it mainly for high performance bikes?


    nay

  3. #3
    Banned qwerty's Avatar
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    It's mainly for suckers. It's dino oil. Get yourself an ester-based synthetic oil for motorcycles with wet clutches and forget anything else.




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  5. #4
    Senior Member rm_hm's Avatar
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    I usually change my oil before winter hits. That way clean oil can sit in it until spring.


  6. #5
    Senior Member TK200's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rich View Post
    I usually change my oil before winter hits. That way clean oil can sit in it until spring.


    Don't you worry about moisture getting in it from heating up and going back to freezing? I'm being serious not a jerk off, I was always taught unless your planning on letting it sit and not riding it through winter you were ok but not otherwise.

  7. #6
    Banned qwerty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TK200 View Post
    Don't you worry about moisture getting in it from heating up and going back to freezing? I'm being serious not a jerk off, I was always taught unless your planning on letting it sit and not riding it through winter you were ok but not otherwise.


    It isn't freeze/thaw cycles that cause condensation, it's high humidity and rapid temperature fluctuations. Condensation is more common when there is a significant temperature difference between the cold engine parts and warm air temperature. If stored in a place with stable temps and high humidity, no problem. If stored in a place with varying temps and low humidity, no problem.



    If the bike is to be stored, best to change the oil and filter before and after storage, and not start the engine in between oil changes. You can use any old cheap oil for this. Wouldn't hurt to overfill all the way to the fill plug, either. Also fog the cylinder with fogging oil.



    Worst thing you can do is start the bike every week or three and let it warm up, then shut it off. Condensation is normal, and the bike needs to be ridden hard enough and long enough to thoroughly warm the oil so that the condensation evaporates. If condensation is allowed to accumulate, it chemically reacts with combustion byproducts and minerals in the oil to form acids that eat away at machined surfaces.



    Ester-based synthetic oils have very few, if any, contaminants that form acid. Dino oils are loaded with them. Be sure to run the carb dry--any ethanol that might leak into the cranckase makes a really big mess of things really quickly.




  8. #7
    Senior Member elime's Avatar
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    Nay
    Long live the internal combustion engine!

  9. #8
    Senior Member TK200's Avatar
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    Well I'm in Central Illinois and ride mine year round so it's not the cold motor warm air-humidity I worry about, it's the opposite. I ride both of mine whenever the oppurtunity arises but I just change the oil in the spring and I have never encountered any problems. Always nice to have a different point of view.

  10. #9
    Senior Member TK200's Avatar
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    Ever use Militec-1? I used to put it in the pick-up (239,000 mi) but now that I have switched to Amsoil I only use it on my firearms.

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