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Thread: Led Lights

  1. #1
    Senior Member small's's Avatar
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    I've been pondering the idea of putting on a led auxiliary light on the 98 tw. Anyone on here used the advmonster.com LEDs or have an led headllight? Been thinking about one model 30 which is a 1500 lumen 10 watt or one of the 44's which is 2000 lumen at 24 watts I believe. I have a single led 200 lumen headlamp that I use for caving/hunting and it's amazing how much of a difference it makes at night. If I don't do the led auxiliary light or led headlight I'm might just try out the silverstar and see if the harness doesn't melt. I did do the switch mod so I can turn of the light if not needed.. Oh another question. If you run the switch in the middle with the stock bulb I'm guessing it's putting out 70watts? I have done this at nights few times on the tw and alot on the sv with no dead batty or melting. Input and ideas are welcome.

  2. #2
    Banned qwerty's Avatar
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    You are playing with fire. Hope you don't get burnt. Best bet for a better headlight is wire the system so the headlight has a battery to maintain voltage at low engine speed and convert to a 35 watt bi-zenon HID. About the same draw as stock, with 6 times the light.




  3. #3
    Senior Member bcscammell's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Small's View Post
    I've been pondering the idea of putting on a led auxiliary light on the 98 tw. Anyone on here used the advmonster.com LEDs or have an led headllight? Been thinking about one model 30 which is a 1500 lumen 10 watt or one of the 44's which is 2000 lumen at 24 watts I believe. I have a single led 200 lumen headlamp that I use for caving/hunting and it's amazing how much of a difference it makes at night. If I don't do the led auxiliary light or led headlight I'm might just try out the silverstar and see if the harness doesn't melt. I did do the switch mod so I can turn of the light if not needed.. Oh another question. If you run the switch in the middle with the stock bulb I'm guessing it's putting out 70watts? I have done this at nights few times on the tw and alot on the sv with no dead batty or melting. Input and ideas are welcome.
    I've been using the Silverstar Ultra for a few weeks now, not had any wiring issues that I know of and gives off noticably more light. The literature says H4 compatible or words to that effect and is the same 60/55 watt rating as the OEM bulb. I can't see there being any problems with wiring if the wattage remains the same. My concern with the Ultra was they may not last long due to the vibrations and bumpy roads. So far so good but they're not cheap, 69.00 dollars for two at Canadian Tire. Good luck.

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  5. #4
    Banned qwerty's Avatar
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    My first Silverstar Ultra lasted about 1500 miles. Great output, but sheesh on bulb life. I have another to try, and if it goes quickly, I'll be pissed. My next headlight will be http://www.truck-lite.com/webapp/wcs...4057&langId=-1 55 watts on high beam, 30 watts on low beam, so I'll add a couple 10-watt or 12-watt LED driving lights to balance the circuit. Darn thing runs about $250 for one, but it should be as close to bullet proof as a headlight can be.




  6. #5
    Senior Member bcscammell's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by qwerty View Post
    My first Silverstar Ultra lasted about 1500 miles. Great output, but sheesh on bulb life. I have another to try, and if it goes quickly, I'll be pissed. My next headlight will be http://www.truck-lit...64057&langId=-1 55 watts on high beam, 30 watts on low beam, so I'll add a couple 10-watt or 12-watt LED driving lights to balance the circuit. Darn thing runs about $250 for one, but it should be as close to bullet proof as a headlight can be.
    Geez, that's not what I wanted to hear . The box said something about a warranty for a year and I may have to see if they will honor it. Still have the original and will start carrying it with me in case. Won't be able to sneak $250 for a headlight past War and Finance.Thanks for the info.

  7. #6
    Banned qwerty's Avatar
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    $250 is just for the bulb, and does not include housing, mounts, or wiring.




  8. #7
    Senior Member small's's Avatar
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    I'm thinking I will try the auxiliary led light and only use it at night. I I'm pretty sure the 10watt .85amp one would ok if I'm not at an idle and maybe the 24watt. I'd rather spend 60 bucks trying that than $25+ plus that will only last a short while. That's less watts then both beams on with the stock bulb. If the ol tw doesn't like it then im sure the sv will.

  9. #8
    Junior Member Julius's Avatar
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    The fuse for the headlight is bigger than the use for several other systems implying it uses more power. I'd like to do 2 things. Build an LED headlight myself. (Who cares if its 100% legal or not) Also add a switch to disable it during the day. I want tail lights during the day, but the head light seems useless. Although I haven't been on one yet, maybe it does really help make you more visible.



    If 4000watt hours - 40 miles then 100 watt hours = 1 mile. At 50 watts, in an hour you could gain an extra half mile. Doesn't seem like much, but its 1025% increase in range. When you drive 50,000 miles you didn't pay for over 500 miles. It all adds up.
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  10. #9
    Junior Member GISdood's Avatar
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    If you're sticking with Halogen, you can't beat these PIAA bulbs.



    http://www.piaa.com/Bulbs/Bulbs-H4.html (the 'Intense White' model)



    I've only burnt out two in 4 years on my SUV. When one burns out, I buy a new pair and use the remaining operational bulb as a replacement for my other bikes (DR650/DRZ400).

  11. #10
    Senior Member small's's Avatar
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    I was curious about the piaa's. They have a 35wmbulb that's suppose to be pretty bright. Anyone use this one "Hs1 35w super plasma gtx says it's 5000k"

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