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  1. #1
    Senior Member SportsterDoc's Avatar
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    forks

    I first checked the technical section and then the performance section, using advanced search and did not find an answer.
    On a washboard road, yesterday, the front suspension seemed a bit harsh.
    Reminded me of my first new bike, a 1967 Honda CB160 on which I broke 5 headlight mounting rings from jumping it in the woods near McGuire AFB.
    Now, I really not not expect it to have suspension for jumping...it's just that the TW fork action reminded me of it.
    On my early seventies Yamaha enduros, changing fluid was easy, with drain screws at the bottom of the forks.
    Not as easy on the TW.
    So, rather than experimenting with different viscosity, what has already been tried?
    I am not doing wheelies and I am not planning on jumping it...other than front may have been a few inches off the ground over whoop-de-doos on the trail, after Gass Peak Road officially ended.

  2. #2
    Ken
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    These do have the drain screw on the lower fork leg. A Phillips (probably a JIS) screw. The top cap on the TW is easy to put on or off. Others on here have recommended 130mm fluid height. I have only used 10 weight so I can't give recommendations there. Be sure and check the manual for procedures.

  3. #3
    Senior Member TW-Brian's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ken View Post
    These do have the drain screw on the lower fork leg.
    Only model years 1987-2000 have the drain screws on the lower fork legs. Yamaha deleted these drain screws beginning with model year 2001.

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    Ken
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    Thanks for the update. A dumb move on Yamaha's part.
    littletommy likes this.

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    Senior Member Tweaker's Avatar
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    Did you see this under Lizrdbrth tech tips in the tech stickies? See post #10 and post #13. The zip tie drill. I haven't messed with my forks yet but probably will before Moab.

    https://tw200forum.com/forum/technica...-changing.html
    Last edited by Tweaker; 01-29-2017 at 08:09 PM.
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    Twin 2014 TW200's made side by side on the assembly line, Moose rear racks, Protaper ATV high bars, DG oval pipes, kick starters, rejetted carbs, 130 main jets, 2 -3 -.020 shims on the needles and @ 2 1/2 turns on the pilot screw, #34 pilot jets, Acerbis hand guards, Shinko 241 front tires, modified Krator foot pegs, 14-55t sprockets, Ricochet skid plates and 90 degree fuel filters.

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    Senior Member Fred's Avatar
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    SportsterDoc, were you bottoming out the ~6 inches of suspension travel, or was the "harshness" reported due to insufficient travel being used to soften the washboard impacts? Two opposite causes could be at play for you; either too firm, or too soft.
    Ken likes this.
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  8. #7
    Senior Member SportsterDoc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fred View Post
    SportsterDoc, were you bottoming out the ~6 inches of suspension travel, or was the "harshness" reported due to insufficient travel being used to soften the washboard impacts? Two opposite causes could be at play for you; either too firm, or too soft.
    Fred, that is a very good question. At the time, it seemed harsh, undampening, that the forks were not moving enough.
    However, after starting this thread (i sometimes do things backwards), I went out to the garage and pushed on the handlebars.
    They seemed soft. I am 182, but with gear, probably 200#

    So, maybe they were bottoming, although they did not have the slamming feel that I've felt in stock forks of the enduros of yesteryear.

    There is another factor to this equation. Either I am not as good a rider as I remember being or age is simply making me much more cautious.
    Due to the cobble on the road, I was only doing 15-20 MPH. Had I been doing perhaps 30, maybe I would have felt the washboard less.
    North and east of Corn Creek Springs, I am finding a lot of sizeable loose rock.
    When speed was attempted, my front tire would plow, instead of going where I wanted.
    This is not the type of riding as found around Randsburg, where slaloming around creosote bushes at 60 MPH was comfortable, i.e, relatively soft terrain, but not deep sand.
    Ken likes this.

  9. #8
    Senior Member SportsterDoc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tweaker View Post
    Did you see this under Lizrdbrth tech tips in the tech stickies? See post #10 and post #13. The zip tie drill. I haven't messed with my forks yet but probably will before Moab.

    https://tw200forum.com/forum/technica...-changing.html
    Thanks, Tweaker.
    With fork boots, I am not seeing fork travel.
    All three of my early seventies Yamaha enduros ran heavier oil, a tad more oil level (son't ask me to remember what a tad was) with stock orifices.
    Tweaker and Ken like this.

  10. #9
    Senior Member SportsterDoc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ken View Post
    Thanks for the update. A dumb move on Yamaha's part.
    Annoying, but probably saved Yamaha a few Yen, which kept the purchase price more affordable.
    Ken likes this.

  11. #10
    Senior Member Tweaker's Avatar
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    I like his methodical set up first set the sag for your weight with proper spacer, then add oil in increments, then change weight if needed.
    littletommy, socalnative and Ken like this.
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    Twin 2014 TW200's made side by side on the assembly line, Moose rear racks, Protaper ATV high bars, DG oval pipes, kick starters, rejetted carbs, 130 main jets, 2 -3 -.020 shims on the needles and @ 2 1/2 turns on the pilot screw, #34 pilot jets, Acerbis hand guards, Shinko 241 front tires, modified Krator foot pegs, 14-55t sprockets, Ricochet skid plates and 90 degree fuel filters.

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