Welcome to the board
Keep an eye on the classifieds - what's your price range ?
Hello All - Looking for a TW200 in Northeast Ohio, but can travel for the right machine. Any model upgrades that I should be looking for? Like charging system? Prefer the looks of around 2003.
Last edited by Lunarnighthawk; 05-01-2017 at 11:29 AM.
Thanks - Range depends on the machine of course, but like to stick to a top of $2k.
1st John 1:9
If we confess our sins, He is faithful and just to forgive us our sins, and to cleanse us from all unrighteousness.
For God so loved the world, that he gave his only begotten Son, that whosoever believeth in him should not perish, but have everlasting life.
For God sent not his Son into the world to condemn the world; but that the world through him might be saved.
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With regard to common upgrades — don’t worry about the charging system - if it runs, you’re onto a winner …..
A lot of these bikes don’t have a lot of miles on them simply because they’re not built for distance riding. Because of that (and your bikes potential age), the first thing you need to check is the tires. It’s not about tread, it’s about age — hard aged rubber is a nightmare — anything over 8 years (IMO) needs changing. That’s “needs to have been changed in the last 8 years”. This link - https://www.tirebuyer.com/education/...-of-your-tires - will tell you what to look for. Fresh rubber will set you back over $150, so if the bike needs it, take that off the asking price.
Next up — check it’s running right. These bikes have small carbs, and anything that hasn’t been used regularly is prone to “clogging” (Ethanol). Every person selling a bike is going to say “good runner” — and maybe it was — until he parked it up a year ago. Take it for a test ride - after all, it’s a “good runner”, so what’s the problem ?
Carb issues can be fixed, but you want to be riding it instead of working on it — and a new carb will set you back $250 — so yes, it matters …..
Make sure the bike has the right paperwork — if not — walk away. Even if you have no intention of riding it on the road, the wrong (no) paperwork can be a rats nest in the future.
Having covered the basics, now we get to the “desirable” or “pretty” bits …..
“Bark busters” (lever guards) are recommended, as is a rear rack. Forget the OEM rear rack, it’s about as much good as a chocolate tea cup. A “decent” rear rack will set you back around $150, so it helps if your bike already has one. You can ignore “LED” indicators as little more than a “fashion mod”, you can fall for that trick later if you so desire. “Charging systems” — does it have a working battery — result — that’s taken care of then.
Assuming the tires need changing (or even if they don’t), the best rear tire is the standard TW34, but if you see a “TW31” on the front, get rid of it before it kills you — Bridgestone call it the “Trail Wing” — we call it the “Death Wing” — and I don’t care if it’s so new it still has the tags on it. That TW31 will dump you faster than a politician, so get shot of it, pronto. Most of us use the Shinko 241 on the front, take the hint (while you’re still alive).
Other than that, “X” ring or “O” ring chains are preferable, simply for ease of maintenance, and that’s about it
Don’t forget to include lots of pictures of your new bike when you get it — (most of us can’t read that well) ….
And never forget to ask questions rather than make mistakes — we’re always here to help
Good luck …….
Welcome from northeast OHio. Good luck as I looked for a good used bike for months. These members here are extremely helpful to new guys like us, but watch out, they like to spend your money! JK.
Thanks - Solid advice from experience! I might want to run an electric vest is why the charging question comes up. Tires are important!