TW rear rack - OEM or aftermarket
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Thread: TW rear rack - OEM or aftermarket

  1. #1
    Junior Member Freon12's Avatar
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    Jul 2017

    TW rear rack - OEM or aftermarket

    My new TW has the little noise bugs worked out. Now I'm wondering what's your guys opinions on a rear rack? OEM or aftermarket?

  2. #2
    Senior Member old w/??'s Avatar
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    Apr 2014
    Are you looking at small or large? How much weight are you going to carry? Is function or looks more important? $ willing to spend?
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  3. #3
    Super Moderator littletommy's Avatar
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    Mar 2013
    Spokane, Washington
    OEM is almost useless. Go with a larger aftermarket one.
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  5. #4
    Junior Member Freon12's Avatar
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    Jul 2017
    I'll look into it lol thanks
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  6. #5
    Senior Member peruano's Avatar
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    Lower Rio Grande, New Mexico
    OEM is useless in some folks eyes. Hundreds, probably thousands, of folks use the OEM rack without issues to carry beer, rocks, groceries, camping gear and you know whatever. I personally don't want a snowplow, a crash bar, or a giant air foil on the back of my bike.
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  7. #6
    Senior Member Howsbentley's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by old w/?? View Post
    Are you looking at small or large? How much weight are you going to carry? Is function or looks more important? $ willing to spend?
    I like the way you think. Not looking to hijack but am interested in this topic. So perhaps I can jump in. I would like a rack that mounts on passenger peg like cycletack but smaller than cyclecrack. Is that a moose rack?

    '13 TW200

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  8. #7
    Senior Member GCRAD1's Avatar
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    Jul 2017
    It would be cool to see a running thread with a collection of all the purchasable rear racks as I too am in the market and would like to see as many as possible before pulling the trigger. Better yet, I need to do a little more digging, but hope to find a thread showing how everyone is packing their TDUB's for overnight camping! (sorry to highjack!)
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  9. #8
    Senior Member Leisure Time Larry's Avatar
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    Jul 2012
    Wet-ern Washington
    We had some great threads, but the great photobucket fiasco has ruined many of the old ones. "How much crap do you plan to carry?"is the question.

    The top racks that I can think of are: Cyclerack, Manrack, OEM, Happy Trails, and Moose Racing racks, in no particular order. Or, you can beg and plead with vanillagorilla1 to make another run of his custom Cyclerack-Manrack love child type of rack. But, until then those are your main choices.

    Keep in mind that the sub-frame has some weaknesses on the bike, so if you plan on carrying a lot of stuff, spread out the load with options like a front rack and saddlebags over the tank, etc.
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  10. #9
    Super Moderator Purple's Avatar
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    Mar 2015
    Ynys Môn
    Well, there’s racks and “racks” – some of these things are stronger than others (though we still end up arguing over the matter)

    The basics are – the rear carry platform straight from the factory is only rated for 7lbs – so the chances are you’ll need something at some point

    The strongest points to attach a rack are the four under the seat – and the rear foot pegs

    The weakest points are the indicator stalks – though I’ve heard of someone using the exhaust mounting point, but that’s a one sided conversation to begin with

    The four under the seat approach is fine, but even then you’re on the sub frame, just not so far out towards the tail. But the vertical theory is that if it’s good enough for a pillion, it’s good place start – but when you put a loaded rack on that point, it’s like shoving a 3ft pry bar under there and bouncing up and down on it (same as the load would do on the trail)

    To counter-act this effect, some manufacturers take two more struts down to the rear peg mounts, so when you jump up and down on that pry bar, the forces are effectively stopped by what amounts to a vertical force on those struts.

    Sounds cool right ?

    But that only takes into account the relative vertical forces, and when you start to put a wider platform on the rear (to take the exhaust into account for panniers etc), you start to get “twist”. Take a 3ft long metal tube and you can lean on it vertically all you want – stick your foot half way along it and pull up on one end, and it’ll start to flex.

    So let’s dive back in under the seat for a minute, and take a closer look at those four holes, and you’ll notice that they are all set into flat pressed steel, and designed to “hold in place” things like the seat – not to take the weight placed on the seat itself. If you clamped a pair of mole grips on that steel and worked it up and down, twisted it around a bit – think you could weaken it ?

    So the “weak point” is now on the bike, and not on the rack – though the carrying dimensions of the rack itself are a contributory factor, compounded by the placement of the kitchen sink right on the end of it.

    When you start to take all these factors into consideration, you can see how this goes

    1: Carefully consider the size of rack for your needs
    2: If you do go for one of the bigger ones, consider how you load it. Place heavier objects closest to the seat (or on the seat itself), and leave the rearmost part for the sleeping bags
    3: Consider modifying those pressed steel cross struts under the seat, you may need to weld in something stronger (but be aware that this will only put the pressure back onto the rack)

    There is no such thing as the “perfect rack”, but most rack failures come as a result of “user error”.

    There’s a picture on the net somewhere of a guy with a full size deer over the back of his TW – he was smart enough to place most of the body weight over the rear of the seat, using the rack to tie down the feet. goes into more detail with regards suppliers (be aware that that thread is seven years old and some of them may no longer be in business – and from time to time members on here make a few and sell them on ……
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  11. #10
    Senior Member Chip's Avatar
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    May 2017
    Make your own. That way you can customize it to your needs.
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