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Thread: Push-Starting the TW 200

  1. #11
    Senior Member TW-Brian's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SHAG View Post
    I think that if you use a AGM tender on a Lead Acid battery long term ( months), it will boil it dry!

    Try kick starting a TW without a kicker like this. Lay the bike on shifter side in 2nd or 3rd gear depending on how long your legs are and with the handlebars turned to the right. Velcro or rubber band the clutch lever to the grip. Lay on the ground with your right hand holding the front wheel and your left hand on the throttle and you facing the underneath of your baby. Make sure the key is on, handlebar switch is on run and the kickstand is up !! Then with a good riding boot on your left foot, kick the rear wheel hard towards the license plate and it will start. Get up and run around quickly and pick up the bike. Sit on the bike then take the clutch strap off the lever. Do a wheelie !!
    With the bike in gear and the clutch lever pulled in against the grip, kicking the rear wheel will turn the transmission gears, but I don't think it will turn the engine over. Am I missing something?

  2. #12
    Senior Member stagewex's Avatar
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    There is a big difference between a charger and a smart charger. There is a big difference between a Battery Tender Jr. & a Battery Tender "Plus". For some reason folks still think BT is a generic name for both and they do the same thing. The "Plus" will never "boil over" you battery if you leave it on. The Jr. is a great charger but it is a regular-type that you should not leave on for extended periods. It's a charger, not a maintainer.
    I'll be starting my old r60/2 today as it has been buried in the back of the garage all Winter and it has been on a "Plus" since November. Started occasionally but never off the charger.
    Same for the 5 years I've owned that bike.
    Fred likes this.
    2008 Vespa 150"S" (Elec & Kick Start)
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  3. #13
    Senior Member sibyrnes's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stagewex View Post
    There is a big difference between a charger and a smart charger. There is a big difference between a Battery Tender Jr. & a Battery Tender "Plus". For some reason folks still think BT is a generic name for both and they do the same thing. The "Plus" will never "boil over" you battery if you leave it on. The Jr. is a great charger but it is a regular-type that you should not leave on for extended periods. It's a charger, not a maintainer.
    I'll be starting my old r60/2 today as it has been buried in the back of the garage all Winter and it has been on a "Plus" since November. Started occasionally but never off the charger.
    Same for the 5 years I've owned that bike.
    I think you are mistaken. The Battery Tender Jr is a maintainer and is fully automatic. That is its whole purpose. Mine has been on my Multistrada all winter.

    Quote from Battery Tender Jr. Manual:

    "Battery Tender® Junior chargers are completely automatic and may be left connected to both AC power and to the battery that it is charging for long periods of time."
    Last edited by sibyrnes; 03-25-2019 at 07:50 AM.

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  5. #14
    Senior Member Darth's Avatar
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    Here are push-starting tricks/techniques from W-A-Y back.

    Before you start pushing...first, remove any fat chicks.

    Put the bike in whichever gear you choose. I'd probably use 2nd or 3rd, but I've never bump-started a T-Dub.
    With the bike in gear and the clutch lever fully out, pull the bike backwards until the engine rotates.
    Rotation will stop when the engine rotates far enough for compression to stop the piston.
    Make sure the gas & ignition are ON .
    Pull in the clutch lever.
    Push the bike as hard and fast as you can.
    Dump the clutch lever and keep pushing.

    The engine will then rotate in the normal, forward direction.
    It will make nearly 1 complete revolution, building momentum, before the piston comes up on compression.
    The momentum will make it easier to rotate through the compression stroke.
    It will then spark, and hopefully...start!

    Repeat until it starts...or doesn't.
    If it doesn't, it is probably just flooded.
    In that case try it again with the throttle wide effin' open. That "ventilates" the combustion chamber.

    If it is flooded and all that doesn't work, remove spark plug and push bike through several engine rotations. With the plug out it will be much easier to push and clear up the flooded condition.
    Dry & replace plug...it should now start.

    In any scenario, when the bike fires, remember it is in gear and wants to GO! Whip the clutch lever in FAST or you will be hanging on for dear life!


    OK, now here is the *real* EZ way to do it:
    When you are pushing the as bike hard & fast as you can, just before you engage the clutch, jump up and hit the seat HARD with your ass, simultaneous with clutch engagement. Both legs to the left "side-saddle", or astride the seat....
    Or...when the bike is going as fast as you can push it, mount it quickly with left foot on peg, swing leg over and bump the seat HARD.
    This makes it even easier to push the piston through compression. And the rear tire won't try to skid.

    The TeeDub may be short enough that you can "dog paddle" it, rather than push. Worth a try.

    They are much easier to push downhill rather than up!

    Replace helmet and fat chicks and go for a ride!

    ************************************************** *******

    I know this is way over-explained.
    But I was addressing noobs and anyone else who is facing their first bump-start situation.
    It can be a bit intimidating...
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  6. #15
    Senior Member Fred's Avatar
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    Don't forget that the Deltron Company markets over 70 different products bearing the "Battery Tender" name. To simply evoke the name "Battery Tender" does not specifically identify anything. The devil is in the details and leaving the wrong charger hooked up for extended periods of time can cause a catastrophic fire like my neighbor.
    Darth likes this.
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  7. #16
    Senior Member sibyrnes's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fred View Post
    Don't forget that the Deltron Company markets over 70 different products bearing the "Battery Tender" name. To simply evoke the name "Battery Tender" does not specifically identify anything. The devil is in the details and leaving the wrong charger hooked up for extended periods of time can cause a catastrophic fire like my neighbor.
    I think all of the Battery Tender chargers are automatic, but we were talking about the Battery Tender Jr. which definitely is automatic.

  8. #17
    Senior Member stagewex's Avatar
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    You are correct sibyrnes. I've been using BT for so long I was not aware there had been a change sometime around 2005-2006. Previous the Jr. was known as "a trickle-charger with a brain" which it is not. Seems just different output between it and it's larger cousin.

    Frequently Asked Questions - Products | Deltran Battery Tender



    Oh, and after slowly priming the engine with the kicker 3-4 turns, my /60 started on the 3rd kick after 3 months of sleeping.
    BT really makes a very nice product.
    Last edited by stagewex; 03-26-2019 at 10:11 AM.
    2008 Vespa 150"S" (Elec & Kick Start)
    2007 Ural Patrol (2WD, Elec & Kick Start)
    2006 Yamaha TW200 (Elec & Kick Start)
    1995 BMW K75 (Elec Start)
    1991 Honda XR250L (Kick Start Only)
    1986 Yamaha BW200ES (Elec & Kick Start)
    1969 BMW r60/2, US Model (Kick Start Only)

  9. #18
    Junior Member pownalite's Avatar
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    my apologies...in trying to reply, i accidentally deleted this post!

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    Jim,

    -As you said, 1st gear made for skidding. A higher gear provides less resistance so the tire can get grip and actually turn over the motor. The electric start doesn't turn over the motor very quickly.

    -What battery tender are you using? For such a small battery, I've found that using the Jr. model is most appropriate at a charge output of 750mA. Other chargers that put out over an amp can actually be detrimental in my experience.

    -I also find that when storing a bike for several months, like the winter season, that using the BT jr. to charge the battery fully and then removing it and simply keeping it somewhere inside where the temperatures are stable works better than just leaving it plugged in.

    -Finally, if your battery got that run down flat, it might be a goner. If it doesn't seem to hold a charge well after you charge it back up fully, you may want to look at replacing it. I'm on year 4 with a sub-$30 sealed agm from ebay, and I've never had it on a tender.

    That's my 2 cents. Good luck. "


    ==================

    what make model sealed battery did you find? thanks, carl
    Last edited by pownalite; 03-28-2019 at 04:59 AM.

  10. #19
    Member SwampFox's Avatar
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    Had to push-start my '01 when the battery flopped on our last ride out. Well, the clutch springs are apparently weak, or the clutch plates are worn, as the first couple of tries the clutch slipped in 3rd gear before finally turning the engine on the 3rd attempt.
    Lee
    2001 TW200
    2013 CRF250L
    1982 MB-5
    1998 R1100GS/CSM Sidecar
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  11. #20
    Senior Member Tiny-Wheel-200's Avatar
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    Of course my advice is to start your bike up once ever couple weeks over the winter which is good for the bike and in my opinion the battery.

    Sent from my LML211BL using Tapatalk

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