Might be. Where is it located?
I can never price these things out, they are so all over the place depending on the person.
Well if in good shape sounds like a great deal.
"Life Member NRA"
Look at it this way... there are still some new 2018 on the showrooms across the country that are still around $1000 more if that helps you out. My biggest questions for that asking price even though the miles are low would be about the break in maintenance and if there are any mods, what they are, and what it would cost to buy those out of pocket separately. It comes down to - what kind of miles were those first 1000. I've seen bikes for sale that had hardly any miles that were obviously hydrolocked and damage done and they were desperate to sell to the unknowing to break even... and someone eventually will come along and get bit.
Something I always like to do is ask to use my compression tester on their bike (for the TW you'd need the 12mm fitting) and take a 3/8" ratchet with a deep well 18mm. Ask that they don't run it prior to you coming and maybe bring them a spare NGK DR8EA gapped to .026 to replace the one you pull out just to be polite. That thing should be reading at least 125 cold (and remember to open the throttle while you do it). Mine has less than 1000 on it and I've got 135 psi (was recently wanting to see if my WOT riding is having any effect on my second hand 2013 and so far, not hurting it a bit). If that test gets down around 110 psi I'd walk away. Checking the oil is all but useless as most people about to sell will put fresh in but you can't hide a bad valve/seat or piston rings on the compression test. (replace their plug to 156in.lb.) A voltmeter is also useful for the TW. Before firing it up, pop the seat off (10mm nutdriver) and see where the battery is at and also check the voltage once running to verify your regulator which is also giving you a good or bad indication of stator condition. Once those two look good it's test ride time. If all looks good, I'd consider that a great deal. I paid 3 grand for my 2013 with 300+ miles on it just earlier this year. Location seems to be the biggest price factor on these when buying used. I saw a 2017 earlier with 900 miles for $2000 in MI. If I was close to that I'd buy that one for my daughter yesterday.
Last edited by MtnMan75; 10-15-2019 at 09:22 PM.
2013 TW200 "Timba Wattla"
1999 Bombardier 500 Traxter
That would be over $4000 in Arizona. You are lucky if you can find a 1999 with lower mileage for under $3000 out here!
If a new one is 4K is saving 700 bucks worth the risk?? Cause a lot of damage can be done in 1000 miles.
Been looking at bikes again this fall hoping to find a deal. Yeah right, all that's out there are over priced trashed out junk. Sorry but I'm not going to spend $2500 to $3500 for a 10 year old bike with 3000 miles and up. Would rather buy new so I know what I got. Christ I found a 2009 3200 miles with a few cheap extra's for $3800, WTF. C'mon people. You know you can pick a nice DRZ400SM for that.
Last edited by Chip; 10-17-2019 at 05:31 AM.
I bought my 2010 T-Dub with 2600 miles for $3400 here in MN a couple years ago. It looked 100% clean, not ONE spec of dirt, and shined like new. And, I LOVE IT. Your deal sounds quite fair. As for mileage, these little bikes are TANKS. Even abused, they are robust. If the bike look like new, it will certainly run like new. Mechanical simplicity is why. Even with no oil changes, the engine should have suffered no damage.
Last edited by DARIVS ARCHITECTVS; 10-17-2019 at 03:00 PM.
(Darius the Engineer)
1944 DKW NZ350-1 11. Panzerdivision
2003 BMW R1150GS Adventure
2010 Yamaha TW200 (cuz it's cute)
Yea, I mean, that's more than $1k savings from a 2018 off the showroom floor in most places... assuming it's in good condition and they didn't wreck it, bend the frame, etc. Check the clutch and everything.
2019 Yamaha TW200
- DGv2 Slip On
- Custom Oil Cooler
- Manracks Seat Rack
- Ricochet Skid Plate
- Oversizzed Footpegs
- Cycra ProBend Handguards
1973 Yamaha RD350
- In pieces in my garage Hidden Content