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  1. #1
    Senior Member MCC1776's Avatar
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    Quick question before I purchase

    This bulb will work with my 87 TW? I can't seem to wrap my brain around AC and DC and all the other electrical gibberish that eludes my brain. I do know that my 87 stator is different from the later models. I also have read that for your turn signals to work properly with LED bulbs installed that you need to also install a diode or a resistor, so do I need to do likewise when trying out this LED headlight bulb? I know it won't be as bright as my incandescent H4, but I'm looking to reduce draw so that I can install a 12v accessory plug for the iPhone. Any words of wisdom before I buy this bad boy? I should be able to do a 1 for 1 with the old bulb and it work without needing any other electrical mods right? Thanks for any help.

    For the headlight
    1987 TW200
    Cycleracks Rear Rack, Tinman Tim's Side Racks [THANKS!], Action Packer Rear Trunk, Texsport waterproof luggage, 20w LED Spot Beam headlight, LED Bulbs for Rear Brake Light and Dash/Speedo, 12v marine auxiliary port, Coleman Seat Pad, Alloy Boltz kit.

    "I will prepare and someday my chance will come." -A. Lincoln

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  2. #2
    Senior Member trailscout's Avatar
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    Well, without getting into the AC/DC theory stuff, if you have an AC circuit without a "rectifier" to change it to DC, then the bulb won't work unless you install a rectifier to convert your AC to DC. Any of the LED stuff has got to receive a DC circuit.

    So I don't know what an '87 has for a circuit. Since it is not electric start, I suspect it is AC which means you'd need to add an rectifier. Check the shop manual for the specs on the electrical and it should tell you if the lighting circuit is AC or DC.

    I'm guessing with out checking the '87 specs that the bulb won't work without a rectifier.

  3. #3
    Senior Member lizrdbrth's Avatar
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    Your headlight is NOT a load on your electrical system on an '87. It is powered by its own coil,, totally separate from the charging system.

    Continue to run the stock 35W/35W bulb. Invest in LED lighting for the rest of the bike if you're looking to conserve wattage.



    I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you.

    Powdercoated '87 frame, extended swingarm, YZ fork legs, ATV tire, 14/55, XT350 tank, spliced quick-release seat, disc brake conversion, beeg headlight, beeger rack, Lizrdcooler, Lizrdventz and bunch of other stuff all covered in invisible ink.

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  5. #4
    Senior Member MCC1776's Avatar
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    Loud and clear.

    Hey Liz,
    Since this extra coil feeds the headlight, is it possible for to add another coil to run accessories?
    1987 TW200
    Cycleracks Rear Rack, Tinman Tim's Side Racks [THANKS!], Action Packer Rear Trunk, Texsport waterproof luggage, 20w LED Spot Beam headlight, LED Bulbs for Rear Brake Light and Dash/Speedo, 12v marine auxiliary port, Coleman Seat Pad, Alloy Boltz kit.

    "I will prepare and someday my chance will come." -A. Lincoln

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  6. #5
    Senior Member RisingSun's Avatar
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    LED fog lights are for cosmetic purposes only, and will not project light in the same way that the factory bulbs do.
    These bulbs are suitable for Daytime Running Lamps only - they do not produce enough light for useful illumination at night
    These are on the lights you just posted. Sounds like they are not really legal for DOT

  7. #6
    Senior Member lizrdbrth's Avatar
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    Anyone know the amp draw of an Iphone? I'm betting that it's fairly minimal.

    If it is you'll be fine for most charging purposes or for powering a GPS, etc. Just install a fused 12V outlet like everyone else and try not to ask it to do more than one thing at once..

    What you can't do is run things like heated grips, extra lighting or other high amp draw items.

    And while the headlight circuit is separate and makes its own juice you shouldn't ask it to run 55W bulbs.

    When your battery is fully charged it is just as fully charged as a 2014 TW.. So limited use use of things like mini-compressors will be fine. And even if they pull the battery down a bit the bike will still start because unlike those milquetoast later bikes yours has a kicker.

    The problem with the '87 system isn't so much that it's weak but that it's unobtanium if it fails so you gotta be extra nice to it.



    Last edited by lizrdbrth; 08-31-2013 at 01:03 AM.
    I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you.

    Powdercoated '87 frame, extended swingarm, YZ fork legs, ATV tire, 14/55, XT350 tank, spliced quick-release seat, disc brake conversion, beeg headlight, beeger rack, Lizrdcooler, Lizrdventz and bunch of other stuff all covered in invisible ink.

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  8. #7
    Senior Member MCC1776's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lizrdbrth View Post
    Anyone know the amp draw of an Iphone? I'm betting that it's fairly minimal.

    If it is you'll be fine for most charging purposes or for powering a GPS, etc. Just install a fused 12V outlet like everyone else and try not to ask it to do more than one thing at once..

    What you can't do is run things like heated grips, extra lighting or other high amp draw items.

    And while the headlight circuit is separate and makes its own juice you shouldn't ask it to run 55W bulbs.

    When your battery is fully charged it is just as fully charged as a 2014 TW.. So limited use use of things like mini-compressors will be fine. And even if they pull the battery down a bit the bike will still start because unlike those milquetoast later bikes yours has a kicker.

    The problem with the '87 system isn't so much that it's weak but that it's unobtanium if it fails so you gotta be extra nice to it.

    Haha, gotcha. Thanks wise Jedi.
    1987 TW200
    Cycleracks Rear Rack, Tinman Tim's Side Racks [THANKS!], Action Packer Rear Trunk, Texsport waterproof luggage, 20w LED Spot Beam headlight, LED Bulbs for Rear Brake Light and Dash/Speedo, 12v marine auxiliary port, Coleman Seat Pad, Alloy Boltz kit.

    "I will prepare and someday my chance will come." -A. Lincoln

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  9. #8
    Senior Member HappyHiker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lizrdbrth View Post
    Anyone know the amp draw of an Iphone? I'm betting that it's fairly minimal.
    ~1amp or 10w IIRC. Of course thats on an almost dead iBattery. Draw drops off as the iBattery nears full charge.

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