Is Older Bolder?
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  1. #1
    Junior Member billyedtimmy's Avatar
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    Nov 2013

    Question Is Older Bolder?

    Ok, Hi, I'm Billy, I'm new to the forum. I'm going to be getting a TW200 at some point (hopefully soon), so I'm scanning Craigslists etc.. to see what I can get in my area.

    Question: What about miles/age on this bike?

    I found one for $1500 with 18,000km that appears the only fault is that it's a 1988 model.

    Otherwise, for around $2200, I should be able to get a hold of a 1996 model with 15,000 km.

    On the other end of the spectrum (currently asking $3900, but I'd say $3500 is achievable with negotiation) is an almost NEW 2010 model with 121km on the dial.

    Which would folks advise on? I probably can afford any of the above, since this is a 2nd bike, but I'm cheap (i.e., if the 1988 isn't really that different in terms of reliability, why go for new?).

    Last edited by billyedtimmy; 11-08-2013 at 08:19 PM.

  2. #2
    Super Moderator littletommy's Avatar
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    Mar 2013
    Spokane, Washington
    Nothing really wrong with a 88 as far as I am concerned. With the cash saved between the 88 and the 96 (700 bucks) you can buy just about everything needed to dress it up with all the excessories needed for a pretty nice adventure bike to take you anywhere.

    Welcome to the forum!
    Last edited by littletommy; 11-08-2013 at 07:49 PM.

  3. #3
    Senior Member DonBenito's Avatar
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    May 2012
    Tucson, AZ
    $3500 is way too much for ALMOST new in my estimation. That would be a pretty good price on an ACTUALLY new clearance TW though.

    As you may already know the bike was changed up somewhat around the turn of the century, but I don't hear many of the early bike owners complaining about the drum front brake nor does the front disc on the newer bikes seem like something to brag about. The newer carb seems better for dummies like me, but I'm sure jealous of the kickstarter on the older bikes.

    If I was shopping for another TW and had to choose between your listed options I'd buy the '88.
    2011 TW200 - Sold - after 9700 miles and 1,000,000 smiles. So long Tee Dub!
    2012 KLR650
    - Sold
    2013 Tiger Explorer XC
    2014 CB500X - RRP L3

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  5. #4
    Senior Member Dubzha's Avatar
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    Aug 2013
    Twin Cities, Minnesota
    I'm guessing you're not in the USA, so prices may be different where you live. I like to look at Motorcycle - Kelley Blue Book to get a basic idea of a starting point. The final choice is ours to make. I agree with Tommy and Don, the '88 price is better. Not to mention you can keep looking too. You will know when you find the right one.

    Welcome to the forum. This is a great group of helpful characters. I hope you enjoy them as much as I do.
    ~ Brian

    Life's too short to be in a hurry... Ride a T-Dub Hidden Content

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  6. #5
    Senior Member peruano's Avatar
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    Jul 2010
    Lower Rio Grande, New Mexico
    I'd say TW s are like old men, its not how old they are its what condition they're in and how they have been taken care of.
    That said, both of the older bike have a lot of miles in a game when we often find "unridden" older bikes with 200 to 1000 kms on the dial.
    But even those unridden bikes have maintenance issues due to age. Maybe your mileage bikes have had that set of new tires, regular carb cleaning, and other stuff that would otherwise need to be done. I know I'm not going to ride on a 25 yr old tire, nor do I really want to do it on a 15 yr old tire. So count your shackles, look the beast over, and decide whether you will need to spend more on renovation or sweat equity than you are saving. I personally like older, preferably with lower miles, and in the hands of someone who looks like they took care of their stuff. These miles are not unheard of for TWs, but most of us start out with lower mileage bikes. Good luck and realize you have a few months to find other bikes before spring. Tom
    Tom - TW200 2002, Kawasaki VN 500 2006

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  7. #6
    Senior Member craig0ry's Avatar
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    Jun 2013
    IMO it all depends on whether you're willing to get your hands dirty or not. These bikes are super easy to work on, parts are readily available, and only a minimal toolset is really needed. So if you're up for a little shady-tree mechanic work, I say buy the one that runs & looks the best, regardless of year or mileage. I personally like the older bikes just because the parts are always available for dirt cheap and you can get one in great condition for about a grand. That plus the fact that the kickstarter is absolutely essential IMO.

    Just avoid the '87. I have one, I love it, but it is a pain to deal with a one-off electrical system. The '88 to '00 models are all going to be roughly equivalent so just buy the one that is in the best condition.

  8. #7
    Super Moderator littletommy's Avatar
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    Mar 2013
    Spokane, Washington
    Well Billy...

    Have we made up your mind for you yet? lol ha ha

  9. #8
    Junior Member billyedtimmy's Avatar
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    Nov 2013
    Awesome, thanks for all the feedback! I am in Canada, so the prices might be a bit out of line with the US or other locales. I hadn't noticed the drum v. disc issue, thanks for pointing that out. I'd definitely lean towards disc, but will have to test-ride in person (soon!). Will let ya know what gives.


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