Brake fluid & bleeding .
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  1. #1
    Senior Member frog13's Avatar
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    Brake fluid & bleeding .

    In the DOT3 & DOT4 realm of brake fluid, is there really a difference between a name brand and an auto parts stores "house" brand ?. I'm planning on bleeding the brakes on my Toyota FJ cruiser , Toyota usually does this , but I'm tired of paying the "price" . The factory service manual say's to bleed the front brakes first and then the rear.....sound's a bit differemt to me, when I use to do this service years ago on my car's we would bleed the furtherest one first then work down to the closest one?.
    Any suggestion would be appreciated. Also , thinking of doing this the old two person way or trying one of the "one" person suction unit's ?. TIA

  2. #2
    Banned qwerty's Avatar
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    Master cylinder first, then closest wheel first is how I was taught.

    Factories place a device on the master that uses pressure to push fluid through, and collection devices to reuse what goes out with the air. You can make a pressure system out of a cap, a baster, and some fittings to hook them together. Still a 2-person job but it's done in 30 seconds. It can be a solo job, but 2 people make it easier. I use a peanut butter jar with fittings and such in the lid and a low pressure regulator to control the flow.

    Fill the jar.
    Pressurize.
    Hold the modded cap on the cylinder.
    Open the valve to purge the air.
    Close the valve (cylinder catches drips).
    Put the cap on the cylinder.
    Open valve.
    Open bleeder (with clear hose to catch can for waste).
    When peanut butter jar is almost empty close bleeder.
    Release pressure from master back through peanut butter jar.
    Put cap back on cylinder.
    Go ride.
    Takes 2 minutes.




  3. #3
    Senior Member evan's Avatar
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    I've been in the automotive business since 83 and its always been furthest wheel to closest (although on a new vehicle it could be different). Suck dirty fluid out of master first and fill with clean so not putting dirty fluid thru. Have a buddy do the brake pedal pushing for you and don't have him press pedal to floor because it can ruin an old master cylinder.
    Mike Carter. Woodland, California (NorCal). '89 Tw200 (Black Widow Edition). Blood red Jimbo shield, Cycleracks, Nuvi 500 GPS, Kolpin fuel pack jr., D shield bark busters, 55t rear sprocket, Golden boy front tire, Ricochet shield.

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  5. #4
    Member Crashking's Avatar
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    I've been a tech for Audi for 7 years now. The procedure can be different for each different chassis type. If the factory service manual says to start at the front, then start at the front.

    Personally I would Always start at the front, remove all dirty fluid, start at left front and work your way back... Less chance of spreading any dirty fluid remaining throughout the whole system

    I would use the vacuum system if you have it already... Makes life easier and less chance to screw it up 👍


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  6. #5
    Senior Member frog13's Avatar
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    When you remove the old fluid from the master , you do not want too remove ALL the fluid correct......due to this possibly introducing air into the system ?. Any comment on the brand of fluid ?. TIA

  7. #6
    Banned qwerty's Avatar
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    Any name brand will do fine, as long as it is the right type. Avoid off generics, off-brands, and store brands unless you know what you are getting.




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