Taz Camper-hauler?
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  1. #1
    Senior Member Padilen's Avatar
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    Taz Camper-hauler?

    I got an old travel trailer, and I got ideas. What I don't have is much money. I started stripping it, slowly- very slowly.
    Here's what I started with.


    I took the junk out. Sprayed it with bleach inside and out. Old mice urine and poop can cause illness. I've removed the inside doors and drawers and burned them in fire-pit. Sprayed again with bleach. Also spraying for carpenter ants, 3 gallons of bleach and 2 cans of ant spray.
    Then I took out the screws and started removing windows and siding. Spraying with bleach and wearing a mask, bagged old insulation.
    Today it looked like this.

    I kept Taz

    My idea is to finish stripping and check frame. Then I'd like to make an enclosed camper on the front and a deck on the back for hauling TW and kayaks. Any suggestions?
    Thanks
    Last edited by Padilen; 07-23-2014 at 08:00 AM. Reason: added
    Yellow CR likes this.

  2. #2
    Senior Member troll's Avatar
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    ambitious project! Should turn out as a cool custom rig for hauling toys.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Padilen's Avatar
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    Could !

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  5. #4
    Senior Member tinman tim's Avatar
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    I really like where your going with this project. Cant wait to follow progress.
    SeatConcepts,carb mod,Shinko tires,15/50 o-ring chain,custom racks f/r, aluminum luggage,windshield,handguards,heated grips,Clarke tank,high frt fender,led running lights,folding shifter, wide pegs,12v outlets,headlight kill switch,voltmeter,stainless header,2nd brakelight,GPS/phone mount

  6. #5
    Junior Member bway's Avatar
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    Bear in mind that the structure spreads the load on the frame, so if you take the rear part off, you will probably need to reinforce the frame to be able to carry much load. You might be able to leave the rear roof and sides in place and install a back wall that folds down as a ramp for loading. In that case, you might need to reinforce the rear corner walls and install some diagonal bracing in the side walls. Interesting project. Good luck. Bob

  7. #6
    Senior Member Padilen's Avatar
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    There isn't anything left of the rear- or most of all of it. The deck rotted and the whole camper settled down about 2 inches. If you look at the back of trailer you can see it's settled. The left side most of the siding was bowed out. The walls rotted. The front owner redid - poorly ! Never fixed what was causing leaks and rot. The floor rotted under entry door. PO placed a board and jack under it. Door is only held on by screws(?) and sealant, at the top.
    It was a bunk house back part of frame doesn't have steel cross members it has 2x4's that fit into frame.
    I've scraped over 25 trailers and a mobile home. I always say I'm keeping frames but end up getting rid of them. Except for a pop up frame I made into my utility trailers. I had it until this spring when I sold it to my friend. The frame was rotting and I was over using it. I worried I'd break the frame- my friend always wanted it so now he's abusing it.
    This frame is about 70"x16'.

  8. #7
    Senior Member Fred's Avatar
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    bway is correct, you will need to restore some torsional rigidity once oem walls gone at rear. His drop down rear wall/ramp idea is good and mirrors other commercial toy haulers. However you deck idea might weigh alot less and be simpler to build and use ( no wall/ ramp to raise, lower, and seal up).
    I would try to build a bulkhead separating sleep area at front from cargo deck somewhere around axles using a somewhat strong steel perimeter frame preferably welded to trailer frame to re-establish rigidity to then tie walls and roof to this bulkhead framing.Then bulkhead can then be filled in with lightweight wall construction. Connections between elements are the weak links as they are stress concentrators. Common construction adhesive on all joints as well as screws might distribute stress and resist vibration.
    And of course save and re-use Tasmanian Devil

    Siding can re-used. I have used simple scotch tape on the outside of a hole, then use white latex caulk to fill hole from inside. Once caulk is dry remove tape and the hole is smoothly and neatly filled. May be painted afterwards. Prep holes a bit first to flatten any burs or puckering so caulked patch lies flat.

    Oops, just saw your last post Paliden. You have more problems but a lot more experience that I assumed. Good luck. I had a buddy who converted his pop-top camper to a bike hauler, it worked.
    Last edited by Fred; 07-23-2014 at 12:03 PM.

  9. #8
    Senior Member Padilen's Avatar
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    Siding is going to scrap for cash. To many windows and other cut outs. If I build a camper it is only going to be 6' or so, about to the axles. When I first got it the plan was to reuse. But I only want 2 or 3 windows.
    I'd still prefer a 6x12 single axle cargo. But haven't sold my Intruder and chipper.

  10. #9
    Senior Member Padilen's Avatar
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    No problem. I asked for ideas - any and all. I didn't want to be the one to scrap this one. But all the people that beg me for a frame don't want to tear one down. I'm already done working on it today. Hands just can't do it.

  11. #10
    Senior Member Padilen's Avatar
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    Taz Camper-hauler?

    What Taz looks like tonight.
    Last edited by Padilen; 07-24-2014 at 06:42 PM. Reason: added pic
    littletommy likes this.

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