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  1. #1
    Senior Member kj7687's Avatar
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    If this bike were available in the U.S. it could well be my next motorcycle purchase.



    http://www.suzukimotorcycles.com.au/...9/dr-z250.html
    KJ, just KJ, ok.


    Current rides:
    2004 GMC Sierra 1500, 1999 Toyota 4Runner

    Past rides: 2015 Yamaha XT 250, 1997 Suzuki DR 200, 2007 Honda Ruckus, 2007 Yamaha TW 200, 2007 Kawasaki Ninja 500, 2009 Kawasaki KLX331S; 1994 GMC Sierra 1500, 1987 Nissan Pathfinder, 1992 Acura Integra, 1986 Honda CRX, 1989 Jeep Cherokee, 1994 Chevrolet Astro Van, 1979 Volkswagen Rabbit, 1984 Jeep Cherokee

  2. #2
    Senior Member trailboss's Avatar
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    Find yourself a good used drz dirt model and dualsport it with a baja designs kit.

  3. #3
    Senior Member jbfla's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kj7687 View Post
    If this bike were available in the U.S. it could well be my next motorcycle purchase.



    http://www.suzukimotorcycles.com.au/...9/dr-z250.html
    Nice bike... electric start and kick start, with a 6 speed transmission, and disc brakes front and rear.



    Only drawback for me is the 35" seat height. But having the linked rear suspension, it could be lowered fairly easily.







    Specs:



    http://www.suzukimotorcycles.com.au/...fications.html



    jb
    2018 Triumph Street Twin..............2016 CB500F
    2014 XT250 ..................................2008 H-D Softail Deluxe
    2008 SV 650..................................2007 DR 650..

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  5. #4
    Senior Member PJungnitsch's Avatar
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    We had the DRZ-250 dirt model and it was a real pain. Lots of starting and running problems. Came from the factory ridiculously lean, which I got fixed, but it still had issues somehow.



    Much preferred the old XR200 for fieldwork.



    And there was almost no aftermarket for it.

  6. #5
    Senior Member kj7687's Avatar
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    Yea I know it's technically possible to get the off road model here and get it plated. But I mean factory street legal, that's what I want I'm pretty happy with the 35" seat height. Two inches lower than the typical KTM, WR250, DRZ400, Husqvarna, etc. dual sport. But yea like you said jb I'm sure you could bring it down to about 33.5, and maybe 32" flat if you got a gel seat for it?



    PJ: Come to think of it, I actually have a friend who has one of these, with a plate stuck on it, lol. I do remember that thing being a BITCH to start lol.



    Anyway luckily for me Kawasaki makes the KLX 250S now. The only thing I don't really like about that bike are the shim-type valves. I know rocker arm valves are supposed to be from "old parts bin" technology, but I actually like them. I can do a valve adjustment on my DR200 in like an hour - super easy. I don't really get why people like shims better. Then again, I've never had a bike with them so...can't REALLY say yet for sure.
    KJ, just KJ, ok.


    Current rides:
    2004 GMC Sierra 1500, 1999 Toyota 4Runner

    Past rides: 2015 Yamaha XT 250, 1997 Suzuki DR 200, 2007 Honda Ruckus, 2007 Yamaha TW 200, 2007 Kawasaki Ninja 500, 2009 Kawasaki KLX331S; 1994 GMC Sierra 1500, 1987 Nissan Pathfinder, 1992 Acura Integra, 1986 Honda CRX, 1989 Jeep Cherokee, 1994 Chevrolet Astro Van, 1979 Volkswagen Rabbit, 1984 Jeep Cherokee

  7. #6
    Senior Member jbfla's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kj7687 View Post
    ...I don't really get why people like shims better. Then again, I've never had a bike with them so...can't REALLY say yet for sure.
    My Triumph has "shims under bucket" for the valve adjustment. Even though it takes longer to adjust the valves, I find the valves keep their clearance much longer: clearances were within spec at 6,000 miles, slightly out at 12,000, and still in spec at 18,000.



    jb
    2018 Triumph Street Twin..............2016 CB500F
    2014 XT250 ..................................2008 H-D Softail Deluxe
    2008 SV 650..................................2007 DR 650..

  8. #7
    Senior Member kj7687's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jbfla View Post


    My Triumph has "shims under bucket" for the valve adjustment. Even though it takes longer to adjust the valves, I find the valves keep their clearance much longer: clearances were within spec at 6,000 miles, slightly out at 12,000, and still in spec at 18,000.



    jb


    Yea I do understand that aspect of shims vs rocker arms. My brother has an SV650 and he's gone at least 25k miles without adjusting his. I guess I'd just rather have something that's easier to do. Don't mind doing it every 3 to 7 thousand miles. Plus if memory serves, the valve check interval on the KLX250S is actually like 7,500 miles, although I suppose that doesn't mean you'd have to adjust them that often...



    Well I'm here, I have a question which I could look up but am too lazy ATM. With rocker arm valves, you can adjust the valves before a big trip and know you'll be good to go. This can also be done with shims yes? As in you don't have to like wait until they are out of spec to put new shims in? I really have no idea how they actually work, but you could just check them before a big adventure ride and then if they were in spec, be good to go, and if not, add the necessary shims or whatever and be good to go, correct? Don't know if this question makes any sense, not sure I'm really wording it right lol. I'll probably just research it properly tomorrow.
    KJ, just KJ, ok.


    Current rides:
    2004 GMC Sierra 1500, 1999 Toyota 4Runner

    Past rides: 2015 Yamaha XT 250, 1997 Suzuki DR 200, 2007 Honda Ruckus, 2007 Yamaha TW 200, 2007 Kawasaki Ninja 500, 2009 Kawasaki KLX331S; 1994 GMC Sierra 1500, 1987 Nissan Pathfinder, 1992 Acura Integra, 1986 Honda CRX, 1989 Jeep Cherokee, 1994 Chevrolet Astro Van, 1979 Volkswagen Rabbit, 1984 Jeep Cherokee

  9. #8
    Senior Member uktw125's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kj7687 View Post
    Yea I do understand that aspect of shims vs rocker arms. My brother has an SV650 and he's gone at least 25k miles without adjusting his. I guess I'd just rather have something that's easier to do. Don't mind doing it every 3 to 7 thousand miles. Plus if memory serves, the valve check interval on the KLX250S is actually like 7,500 miles, although I suppose that doesn't mean you'd have to adjust them that often...



    Well I'm here, I have a question which I could look up but am too lazy ATM. With rocker arm valves, you can adjust the valves before a big trip and know you'll be good to go. This can also be done with shims yes? As in you don't have to like wait until they are out of spec to put new shims in? I really have no idea how they actually work, but you could just check them before a big adventure ride and then if they were in spec, be good to go, and if not, add the necessary shims or whatever and be good to go, correct? Don't know if this question makes any sense, not sure I'm really wording it right lol. I'll probably just research it properly tomorrow.


    I agree bucket and shims are a pain in the a$$. If your valve clearance is 0.08mm to tight for instance you have to replace it with one 0.08mm thinner, this involves a trip to the dealer, they haven't got that one in stock so have to order it in and if you had to remove the cam to replace the shim your bikes off the road waiting for a shim.

    I would much rather do a screw and lock nut adjustment every few months, it takes a few minutes and you can be riding again in no time.

  10. #9
    Senior Member Xracer's Avatar
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    Like anything else pre-planning before a trip is the key. I'm heading up to Tennessee next month and both the Dub and the KLR are going to get a complete service with time to spare if any problems show up. Waiting until the last minute will bite you in the backside!

  11. #10
    Banned qwerty's Avatar
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    Everyone I know who has lowered bikes has handling issues afterwards when the bikes are ridden hard. Think twice before doing that.




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