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  1. #1
    Senior Member admiral's Avatar
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    Insulating my shop help

    Since I hate procrastinating and now that winter is almost over and living here almost 10 years, I'm thinking about insulating my metal shop. I would have had it done already but I was waiting for the big winter storm last year to damage my shop roof and get it fixed again before starting the project.

    So anyway, like I said my shop is metal. I can't afford the spray in foam, you know the stuff the guys come out in space suits and flame throwers use. I know it's the best but the cost will get in the way of something else I want but just can't think of at the moment.

    Questions I have.

    What are my alternatives to the flame thrower space suit wearing alien applied stuff?

    If I use the house pink panther roll insulation do I need to worry about a water or vapor barrier between the pink panther and the metal walls?

    What type of materials should I use for a vapor barrier if I need it?

    I'm concerned about Mildred or is it mildew so want to eliminate a potential problem there.

    I was also thinking about those Styrofoam insulation panels in the different thicknesses. Anyone use them? Are they more cost effective than pink panther?

    Are there other questions I should know to be asking but don't know what they are to ask?

    Anyway, if you're bored with winter and have some knowledge I'd like to hear your ideas so I can steal them.

    Thanks
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    Ken
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    Senior Member Ken's Avatar
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    You seem to have pretty good knowledge. I have seen some spray insulation kits on line but I have never used any. My stepdad has a metal building and he put plywood 4x8 sheets around the lower 8' and that alone made a huge difference. My best guess would be a combination. Thin foam board against the metal, pink insulation over it then plywood. If money were no object I think spray foam. I am considering a metal building, barn house at some point so I hope to learn the best insulation for these as well.

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    Senior Member Rhodetrip's Avatar
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    I don't have any knowledge but I do own a metal building. It has the pink panther stuff, or a reasonable generic alternative. I don't think there is a vapor barrier, but I will check tomorrow. I am pretty sure that it is not paper backed, but plastic.
    I can't remember from the 59 minutes since I was there. Most of it has sheetrock walls.
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    Senior Member Trail Woman's Avatar
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    Vapor barrier with acoustic sealant and/or tuck tape over the fiberglass. Fiberglass works better then sheet foam but is more vulnerable to rodents using it as nesting or an entry point. Then drywall or plywood etc.

    Our bike shop is so well insulated we even have foam under the concrete floor with infloor heating pipes, but we cheaped out on the stove and plan to upgrade before next winter.
    Last edited by Trail Woman; 02-07-2018 at 04:17 PM.
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    Senior Member Peterb's Avatar
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    Insulate with snow
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    Super Moderator Purple's Avatar
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    The simplest way of dealing with this, is to dry wall with attached insulation — expect to replace with new at about the five year mark

    If you attempt dry wall with separate insulation, unless you replace both layers, it will accelerate the damp

    The moisture will naturally gravitate to the outside (internal) layer, eg the plaster board — the longer you can keep that dry — the longer it will last

    But as long as that plaster board absorbs the damp — the less damp gets through to the room ….
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    Senior Member neckless's Avatar
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    rockwell insulation is water prof and fire resistant and is use in commercial buildings pricy in .ca but maybe cheaper in the us..it is like pink...
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    Senior Member Trail Woman's Avatar
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    What is under your metal siding? It should have an air space under the metal, strapping over building paper, sheathing, and studs and then insulation, vapor barrier, and interior sheathing.

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    Senior Member Mrs. Admiral's Avatar
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    Uh......I thought we were moving and that was going to solve the insulation problem. Am I moving without you??
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    Senior Member Miaugi's Avatar
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    You didn't mention if your building was like a quonset hut, if so the curved walls make things more difficult and spray foam would be the easiest. We live in a metal building that's 50' x 128', half the building is our business, then 26' of garage and the balance is our home. Since the metal siding is attached to 2 x 6's strung 14' between the I-beam structural framework we went with 5" of sheet polystyrene laid inside of the 2 x 6's and then all covered with another layer of 1" sheet polystyrene. Then a 6 mil poly ethylene vapor barrier on top of that (on the interior side), then internal 2 x 4 walls and finished with 1/2 drywall. At the time this seemed like the best option based on price as the spray foam estimates were in the $20K range. However once it was all said and done I realized the labor to install the sheets in between the 2 x 6's was very labor intensive and if I was doing it over I would have gone with the spray foam instead which would have negated the need for a vapor barrier which was also labor intensive to install and tape with the special red tape made for that job. We also heat with radiant heating tubing in the concrete floor powered by propane (no natural gas available where we live).

    Of course we can see as cold as -40F in the winter although -24F is more common. So to answer your question in Canada the vapor barrier goes on the inside of the insulation unless you spray foam which negates the need for it since the foam is a natural vapor barrier. For both heating and cooling the key today with constantly rising energy costs is to spend as much as you can on insulation because in the long run it pays, unless your time in the building is not long term? Good luck with your project.
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