1999 XT350 Turn Signal Switch/Turn Signal Function
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Thread: 1999 XT350 Turn Signal Switch/Turn Signal Function

  1. #1
    Senior Member CS1983's Avatar
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    1999 XT350 Turn Signal Switch/Turn Signal Function

    Issue 1)
    Turn signal on the 350 is sticking to the left and is fine to the right. The switch, as far as I can tell, is not a push-to-kill like the TW200 -- you have to push back to center to kill it.

    I'm referencing this thread: https://tw200forum.com/forum/technica...nctioning.html

    Will let you know if I got the ref thread to fix it or if I need to replace (one on eBay for 47 bucks free shipping -- tempting cus I know it will just work)

    Just wanted to start a thread so the reference thread was easily found and so if anyone has the same issue they can perhaps more easily find it.

    Issue 2)

    The left turn signal doesn't blink. It activates the light, but no blinking occurs. Also, left rear is burned out or otherwise dead.

    Will post back here when I get that squared away so there is a reference for it.
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  2. #2
    Senior Member SportsterDoc's Avatar
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    Typically with one of the two bulbs on a side out, there is not enough load for the flasher to "blink".
    So, a new bulb may solve the flash issue.

    For the turn switch, try a shot of contact cleaner.
    I am not suggesting dirty contacts, but it is a safe way to do a bit of internal cleaning, without disassembly.

    CRC QD 11 oz. Contact Cleaner-02130-6 - The Home Depot
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    Senior Member Fred's Avatar
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    To paraphrase the revered but sorely missed and departed Lizardbreath's advice I would take it apart, clean it and lube sliding parts with a hint of dielectric grease. That and a new left rear turn signal bulb might solve everything.
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  5. #4
    Senior Member CS1983's Avatar
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    Thanks for the replies everyone. I had it apart yesterday before I posted, but nothing looked broken -- just sticks to the left. I'll need to get some of the dielectric grease. I might just buy the one on ebay anyway for a spare and if restoring it .

    Couldn't test last night with the bulb (was going to switch out from right to left) as there's a short somewhere which is draining the battery. Would have to have started it and my son was already asleep. Will probably test tonight if I get a chance.
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  6. #5
    Senior Member CS1983's Avatar
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    Haven't gotten a change to get this going, but as I said in the "ride today" thread, the tires need to be replaced so I did order some shinko 244s and tubes for it from RockyMtnATVMC... good price and free shipping!
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  7. #6
    Senior Member CS1983's Avatar
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    Have everything for tired replacement now. Once I get those fixed, will deal with the turn signal and the switch.
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  8. #7
    Senior Member CS1983's Avatar
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    Well, got the front and rear tires off and front tire/tube replaced. The front tire wasn't as bad, but the rear tire was an old, hard "Enduro". Had to use a lot of soapy water to get it free of the rim. actually bent two tire irons until I let the soapy water sit for a while.

    Replaced front tube and tire but never heard a "pop" of seating the bead -- is that not always a thing?

    Either way, the rim line on the tire is even around both sides and it's held pressure overnight. Will get the rear tube/tire replaced and put it all back together.

    Have not addressed the turn signal/switch yet since tires took precedence.

    Will air up the old tubes to see if they hold air in case I compromised them during removal. If they are good, will keep as a backup.
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  9. #8
    Senior Member CS1983's Avatar
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    Finally got a chance to put some dielectric grease on the switch. Functions smoothly now. I am still searching for time to replace the bulbs so I can test if it was that or a fuse or wiring.

    Been mega busy w/ school, buying a house, etc.
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  10. #9
    Senior Member CS1983's Avatar
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    Ok, an update:

    Tires:
    I replaced front and rear tires w/ Shinko 244s (3x21 and 4.6x18), as noted above. Also replaced the tubes. Had driven it around the neighborhood and noted it was quite uncomfortable above 20mph which I'd hoped was due to lack of balancing. I did not want to take the tires to get them balanced and the motorcycle shop requires a short freeway stint, so I opted for the Ride-On Balancer/Sealant. For the front the dosage was 6oz and rear was 8oz. Drove down to the gas station, did the Ride-On procedure and voila, instantly balanced and finally comfortable.

    Turn Signals:

    As noted above, I took the suggestion of dielectric grease on the switch and the switch no longer sticks. It's now easily manipulated, so that was a savings of $47 bucks from not going the ebay route.

    I removed the bulbs and took them with me to O'Reilly Auto, where I got two sets (2x each) for ~12 bucks. I replaced both rears as the front ones light up. I'll save the extra set for future use.

    However, I still had no light on the left... what gives? started tracing the wiring and noticed one of the connectors was undone. Connected that, started the bike again and fiat lux! (let there be light).

    Ok, so I have light... but no flash. Hrm. Googled and came on a thread where a guy had a similar problem on a KTM. One suggestion was the battery not providing enough power. Cracked open my Clymer's manual and it suggests testing voltage: translation, "battery issues". Well, I know the battery is dead and hadn't cared yet since this is a kickstart bike. So I started it up again and since I couldn't see the rear while gunning the throttle, I recorded video for confirmation:


    After this, I drove around the neighborhood got a flashing turn signal as well. So that's good to go.

    Now the only question is why the brakes feel mushy. I'm suspecting low fluid or maybe air in the line, as the pads were inspected during the tire change and they're good. The fluid barely cuts the bottom of the window. So the next thing will be to bleed the lines and refill.

    Battery:

    I have a lithium on tap for the tw200; xt350 will be getting the tw200's factory battery. However, with my pelican case on the Cycle Rack (still need to do a thread on that), it prohibits the seat from being removed w/o removing the case -- major pain. So, I have a seat concepts kit I need to install and during that I will shorten the rear of the seat to allow clearance in conjunction w/ the wingnut/fixed-post mod for seat attachment. Point being -- this bike's battery is SOL until I get the time to work on the TW first. Being kickstart, I frankly don't care about the battery and its priority is low.
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