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Thread: Fine Carb Tuning

  1. #1
    Senior Member BRug14468's Avatar
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    Fine Carb Tuning

    Just finished re-installing my carb with the ProCycle jet kit. I ended up using the 130 main jet, two shims and the supplied needle and idle jet. Started it up, its maybe 20 degrees or so here in Upstate NY, and ran awesome. The usual stuttering before its all warm and toasty was gone. I haven't had a chance to get on the road for a normal road test, but my question is, what should I be looking for or testing for to see if this is the right setup for my bike? I mean it doesn't smell to rich and runs strong, so is that just kind of it? If it isn't broke don't fix it maybe? Thanks Gents!

  2. #2
    Super Moderator littletommy's Avatar
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    If the idle is good and not wavering up and down and it doesn't hesitate with a good crack of the throttle, is warming up quicker and running smoother, you are probably close. See how it runs under a load in all gears and do a plug check to see if it is tan. (black would be too rich, whitish would be too lean) Have the engine running somewhere between midrange and highrange and pull in the clutch and kill the engine, then pull the plug and look.
    TWilight likes this.
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    Senior Member BRug14468's Avatar
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    Will do, thanks for the plug check idea. A guy at work mentioned something about the possibility of burning up valves if you're not careful. That's why he said he always takes his carbs to shops. This has been my first go at any carb work but I mean its only a 200 designed almost 30 years ago... Seams like you would have to do something rash to kill this thing. Is that an actual possibility?

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    Super Moderator littletommy's Avatar
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    Well, you haven't killed it yet, and with the tuning you have done, it should be safer from blowing up than it was...ha ha Do the plug check, it is important. As long as you are not too lean, you probably won't ever burn a valve on this bike. Ride on brother!
    1st John 1:9
    If we confess our sins, He is faithful and just to forgive us our sins, and to cleanse us from all unrighteousness.

    John 3:16
    For God so loved the world, that he gave his only begotten Son, that whosoever believeth in him should not perish, but have everlasting life.

    John 3:17
    For God sent not his Son into the world to condemn the world; but that the world through him might be saved.

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    Senior Member Polarpilot's Avatar
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    The plug color test is the most informative and important test that a backyard mechanic has to tell what is happening inside the raging volcano of the engine when it is running.
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    Super Moderator littletommy's Avatar
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    ^^The "raging volcano of an engine that is called the TW" ^^ priceless.
    1st John 1:9
    If we confess our sins, He is faithful and just to forgive us our sins, and to cleanse us from all unrighteousness.

    John 3:16
    For God so loved the world, that he gave his only begotten Son, that whosoever believeth in him should not perish, but have everlasting life.

    John 3:17
    For God sent not his Son into the world to condemn the world; but that the world through him might be saved.

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  8. #7
    Senior Member Gerry's Avatar
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    Brug, for me, changing the stock configurations of my carburator led to many seasons of fussing about to get it back to some improved middle ground.

    Over the years, those that seem to have had lots of carb. experience have said over and over, carb. mods need to be done in a VERY METHODICAL MANNER.

    It is not my intent to demean you in any way. Given my experience, and frustration, I had to chuckle at the wording, "fine carb tuning". I certainly hope that your 'fine tune' at 20 degrees will work as well at 70.

    The TW certainly seems to be a 'cold blooded' machine. Playing with the idle jet adjustment is pretty straight forward and can make for faster 'start and go' opportunities. Jetting and shimming can be a whole nuther can of worms.

    This is not so much for you, but for the others that may read your post and be inclined to think that twisting, shimming and changing jets is a slam-dunk process. For me, it was not. Yes, I got my 2006 to become rideable in cold weather a bit faster. However, like you, I went beyond the basic 'turn the jet in or out just a bit'. What I ended up having to deal with was this rather annoying 'hic-up/hesitation' around 3800 rpm. Now if you go through the gears fast, likely you are not close to 3800 rpm for more than a heartbeat. Should that be the case, my issue would not be noted by you. Given I ride off-road and slow, I am plus or minus 3800 rpm's a lot. My hic-up was certainly not a deal breaker, but still annoying.

    Hope your changes work well for you under most temps and conditions. For those, like me, that would be inclined to think twisting a screw, installing a shim or changing a jet is close to a 'slam dunk' improvement, think again..

    When Yamaha seeks out a middle ground for carb set-ups, likely the environment is temperature regulated, flow meters and emission sensors abound. The issue is not only air quality, but reliable/marketable performance.

    If like me, you are inclined to make carb changes in a 'willy nilly' fashion, be prepared to 'chase your tail for some period of time.

    Gerry
    Take care my Friend.........

  9. #8
    Senior Member BRug14468's Avatar
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    Noted Gerry, as I was going through this project I was kind of thinking it may be best to only throw one variable in the mix at a time to really narrow down what does and does not work. That's kind of how I do things though, go balls out, find some sustains and some areas for improvements, then go balls out again. All part of living and learning I reckon. Thank you gentleman.
    Dryden-Tdub likes this.

  10. #9
    Banned ZDR1's Avatar
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    My procycle jet kit instructions- for best performance, procycle recommends installing the #125 main jet, the #34 pilot jet, the enclosed jet needle, and one shim under the needle clip. this is a good starting point for tuning.
    Stock #126 main-#31 pilot
    Last edited by ZDR1; 01-17-2015 at 08:04 PM.

  11. #10
    Senior Member keithmaine's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zdiver1 View Post
    My procycle jet kit instructions- for best performance, procycle recommends installing the #125 main jet, the #34 pilot jet, the enclosed jet needle, and one shim under the needle clip. this is a good starting point for tuning.
    Stock #126 main-#31 pilot
    What exactly comes in this kit?? how jets and what sizes? my 2013 (all stock) takes for ever to warm up needs choke even on warm day. Slight ping on hills unless I use 91 or higher octain
    2015 CSC RX3, TW200 2013 (for sale), 2011 Ural Gobi, 1995 GL1500SE (for sale)

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