And FedEx dropped this off . 10999217_10204831092329194_1661595943_o.jpg spare for Moab.
Finally got around to changing the rear spring for Moab. 11008935_10204830889324119_585679126_n.jpg I did not remove the rear tire but if I did it again I would. and I found a good use for my cutoff tool disk changing wrench. 11003186_10204830889044112_37248839_o.jpg 10998175_10204830887564075_340727003_o.jpg
Last edited by ZDR1; 02-21-2015 at 03:26 PM.
Last edited by ZDR1; 02-21-2015 at 05:22 PM.
I removed my rear tire and it made a big difference, but did you remove your tank? On mine the upper mount bolt would not bypass a very small piece of the tank seam or flange. Instead of pulling the tank I just used a dremel tool and removed about 1/8" of material to get the bolt out all the way. Made it much easier.
Hm, I had my shock in and out 6 times. All I removed was seat, and just lifted the rear end of tank enough for top bolt to clear. Shock goes in and out from the top and with some wiggle'n, the bottom. First time took a few minutes to figure it out. I hate doing extra work.....
-Cut two 3/4" long pieces of PVC pipe. (I used some gray 3/4" ID x 1" OD plastic conduit that I had laying around)
-Lift the front end of the bike so the front wheel is off the ground.
-Doing one fork leg at a time, loosen the top triple clamp and remove the top fork cap. Insert one of the PVC spacers on top of the existing metal spacer. Apply downward pressure on the fork cap to compress the spacer/spring enough to get the fork cap started. Re-tighten fork cap and top triple clamp.
-Repeat process on the other fork leg.
Two days ago on Joemama's ride we did about 75 miles off-road which included some pretty deep ruts and rocky water crossings. I was only able to bottom the front end once. Without the added spacers, I probably would have bottomed the front end at least a dozen times.
This is a really easy mod.
Nice tip Brian. My wife's cooking somehow prevents me from dropping 10 lbs so maybe I could benefit from stiffer front end @ my current 190lbs. However I would hate to sacrifice the suppleness I enjoy while slowly navigating boulder strewn Sierra Jeep trails. As Paul's Moab Roomie perhaps we can swap bikes for a mile or two so i can appreciate a firmer suspension while he experiences ATV tire traction.
2003 TW200 "Betty Boop"
2006 TW200 "Nibbler", a.k.a. “Mr.Gizmo"
Hidden Content All Things Considered I’ld Rather Be Motorcycling
I gotta ask...what do you guys weigh that you have to change the suspension........I am a svelte 225 should I be changing mine out? or just pushing my self away from the table..
After scouring the FORUM for info on fork tuning I decided to forego spending $300 on the beef up kit and take Mr. Brth's advice...
1) Rig bike into Crouching Dog position so that forks are plumb vertical.
2) Move handlebars to clear the way for fork guts removal.
3) Remove fork caps, extract stock spacer tubes, fabricate long hook from coat hanger and extricate springs.
4) Fully compress forks and measure distance from top of tube to top of fork oil. I was shocked to find 150mm from the factory since their spec calls for 135mm. No wonder I had been getting such an adrenaline rush from front wheel braking.
5) Being the lazy type I chose to extrapolate a guess, with Lzrd's "It"s Done" post as my basis, that 130mm would get me in the ball park to support my 285 lb. carcass. Added 10 wt. fork oil to attain desired level in each tube.
6) Fabricated new spacers from 3/4" PVC pipe, 3/4" longer than stockers and reassembled per the recipe. Condition of oil and innards was pristine with no signs of moisture (2001 Model).
SHAZAMMM! The results are almost unbelieveable.Thanks to the TW 200 Forum for sharing the LOVE.
Suspension now feels very nice and sag is now 1.5".
This took 1 hour since I did not remove the forks from the bike and cost $7.50.