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Thread: Re-jetting question

  1. #1
    Senior Member excalibur's Avatar
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    Re-jetting question

    I have recently acquired and started up-grading a 2010 Tdub.

    I consider it pretty complete with he ecxception of a couple tool and fuel tubes, the 241 for the front, and the "new condition" Stainless DG-0 slip on muffler and 1" quiet core insert that I scored here on the forum which arrived today in the mail late this afternoon.

    Not being real familiar with aftermarket exhaust up-grades other than on my present and past Harleys and the 900 cc Triumph America I'm also riding at this time, I do know that after exhaust up-grades were made to all of those, rejetting carbs, or in the case of fuel injection, re-mapping on the computer was required. However, this was all preformed at the shops with dyno's required to achieve desired results.

    Is this goung to be the case with the carb on my Tdub (?) and if so, what do those with DG muffler equipped bikes recommend as to new jets required to make it all work well together ? I'm asking as I plan on doing it myself do to the ease of getting to and removing the carb.

    So far I have done the following and think I'm getting close to the end as far as up-grades go:

    Protaper "Hight" ATV bars and Protaper grips
    handguards
    ricochet aluminum skid plate
    DMO pegs
    Cycle Rack ( rear rack )
    the DG exhaust goes on in the AM
    the 241 is on order.

    What if anything, am I missing to be ready for spring riding in the nearby Cascade Mountains and somewhat distant desert areas of central WA. ?

    thanks,
    excalibur
    Last edited by excalibur; 01-08-2018 at 08:32 PM.
    2010 TW 200 Dual Sport
    2017 Harley Softail Slim w/110 Cubic Inch Screamin' Eagle engine
    2005 Yamaha 450 Kodiak 4x4 Quad

  2. #2
    Senior Member Leisure Time Larry's Avatar
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    It looks like you are getting set up nicely! You mention a lot for the bike, but nothing about gear for yourself. That's equally or more important than the bike stuff, IMHO. Hopefully, you've got it covered, but we can recommend stuff if not. I gear up thinking I'm going down at least once on every ride, so it hurts less or not at all when I do.

    I've never used an aftermarket can on the TW, but I don't think it moves much more, if any more, air than stock due to the small intake throat. I have been running the stock 126 main jet since I'm often at elevations over 4500' in the mountains or in Utah. If you plan to stay below that you may want to play around with the carburetor settings and jetting. Here are links to the relevent threads in our Technical Write ups section.

    First, familiarize yourself with the carb... https://tw200forum.com/forum/technica...ification.html

    Next... https://tw200forum.com/forum/technica...rb-tuning.html

    Here are the OEM part numbers for jets. It is highly recommended to purchase the OEM jets. Many aftermarket kits have unfavorable reviews and/or come with jets that are a different numbering system than OEM, so it is difficult to narrow down what is what. I would recommend purchasing the 128, 130 and 132.5 main jets, as well as the #34 pilot jet. They are cheap enough to have on hand for whenever wanting to test jetting. Get them from your local dealer, or your favorite online retailer like Boats.net: Outboard Motors, OEM Marine Parts, Boats for Sale... https://tw200forum.com/forum/technica...et-part-s.html
    littletommy, Purple and putt-putt like this.
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  3. #3
    Senior Member Tweaker's Avatar
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    I bought my bikes cheap because the PO s had trouble rejetting the carbs after installing DG pipes. What worked for me at sea level is 130 main jets, turning out the pilot screw @2 1/2 turns, putting 3 - .02” washers under the spacer on the needles and also for easier cold starting I put in 34 pilot jets,

    The washers really made a huge difference in low to midrange acceleration. They had also modded the airboxes by drilling holes in them but I used electrical tape to close them up.
    ”Everything You Know is Wrong”

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    Twin 2014 TW200's made side by side on the assembly line, Moose rear racks, Protaper ATV high bars, DG oval pipes, kick starters, rejetted carbs, 130 main jets, 2 -3 -.020 shims on the needles and @ 2 1/2 turns on the pilot screw, #34 pilot jets, Acerbis hand guards, Shinko 241 front tires, modified Krator foot pegs, 14-55t sprockets, Ricochet skid plates and 90 degree fuel filters.

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  5. #4
    Senior Member Fred's Avatar
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    I believe Tweaker's jetting as described also worked quite acceptably on a several rides above 10,000 ft. elevations.
    2003 TW200 "Betty Boop"
    2006 TW200 "Nibbler", a.k.a. “Mr.Gizmo"
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  6. #5
    Senior Member Tweaker's Avatar
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    Fred I did try rejetting for the Sweetwater ride at 8-10,000 ft. I changed the main jet to 126, pilot to 31 and removed some washers. But it still wasn’t right although it worked. I am still figuring out high altitude jetting. It takes a little time to get the right combinations and I wanted to ride instead of mess with the carb. I did try opening the holes in the airboxes too but am not sure what difference it made.
    admiral likes this.
    ”Everything You Know is Wrong”

    ” How Can You Be in Two Places at Once When You Are Nowhere at All?”




    Twin 2014 TW200's made side by side on the assembly line, Moose rear racks, Protaper ATV high bars, DG oval pipes, kick starters, rejetted carbs, 130 main jets, 2 -3 -.020 shims on the needles and @ 2 1/2 turns on the pilot screw, #34 pilot jets, Acerbis hand guards, Shinko 241 front tires, modified Krator foot pegs, 14-55t sprockets, Ricochet skid plates and 90 degree fuel filters.

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