Off road LEDs and high beams circuit?
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Thread: Off road LEDs and high beams circuit?

  1. #1
    Senior Member Trail Woman's Avatar
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    Off road LEDs and high beams circuit?

    My round headlight high beam is burnt out so I'm planning it\s replacement...

    So I'm considering a 6 LED config with a 2 LED config on each side of that and would like to wire the dual LEDs in parallel in the high beam circuit. Aside from brackets will this work work well without any mods? It looks like it might but I don't know anything about the high beam circuit aside from the shared negative. Or should I tie the high beam signal into the 6 LED and forget about the other 2s because the 6 can handle it?
    sku_401097_1.jpg
    https://www.ebay.ca/itm/4Inch-30W-LE...19.m1438.l2649
    2.jpg
    https://www.ebay.ca/itm/3Inch-10W-LE...19.m1438.l2649

    All LEDs are 12-24V. The 6 is 30W and the 2s are 10W each.

    Any advice or suggests or experiences welcome...
    Last edited by Trail Woman; 02-12-2018 at 09:11 AM.

  2. #2
    Senior Member Trail Woman's Avatar
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    If the 6 LED works with the high beam added on then I might just buy that and see how the lighting is....

  3. #3
    Senior Member Fred's Avatar
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    I would be hesitant to add 50 watts to the hi-beam circuitry as is, assuming you are still using the stock H4 Halogen bulb. The concerns are overloading Hi-beam circuit wiring as well as total current draw taxing the batteries ability to recharge.
    Solutions could include unloading the high beam wiring via a relay powering the added lights ( I would add a separate arming switch to energize the relay and then trigger it with the stock Hi-beam switch).
    Another approach is to reduce stock current draw via LED conversion or elimination of stock incandescent bulbs. i.e. get a LED headlight and delete front running lights as well as the two 10w planned LED pods. Think of limiting total draw to a nominal 90 watts of stator output at full song ( generated current output is less at lower R.P.M.s)
    2003 TW200 "Betty Boop"
    2006 TW200 "Nibbler", a.k.a. “Mr.Gizmo"
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  5. #4
    Senior Member Trail Woman's Avatar
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    NO....current headlight is getting replaced.

    I thought since the 6LED is 30W and is made for 12-24V applications it could handle the high beam circuit added to it.

  6. #5
    Senior Member Fred's Avatar
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    r.e. post #2: Adding only 30 watts via the 6-LED pod might work, taxes total energy balance a bit and would be safer with a relay. My approach has been to first free up amperage with a LED headlight conversion so I cannot accurately address the effects of your plan.
    Maybe others know better. Good luck.
    2003 TW200 "Betty Boop"
    2006 TW200 "Nibbler", a.k.a. “Mr.Gizmo"
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  7. #6
    Senior Member Trail Woman's Avatar
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    Sorry about the confusion there I went back and updated that the current headlight is going and want to replace with the 6LED ....I considered flanking it with others but maybe it's best to wait and see how the 6 LED works out.

  8. #7
    Senior Member Fred's Avatar
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    OK, I understand, no more stock H4 halogen. Then all three planned lights should be just fine using just existing Hi-beam wiring and switch. 6LED pod alone might not yield enough light to satisfy your needs.
    2003 TW200 "Betty Boop"
    2006 TW200 "Nibbler", a.k.a. “Mr.Gizmo"
    Hidden Content All Things Considered I’ld Rather Be Motorcycling

  9. #8
    Senior Member Trail Woman's Avatar
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    Now that I think of it more Edit..... high beam signal added to the running light on the 6 pod shouldn't be more then 24V on high beam setting which this LED pod can handle.

    If the 6 pod is as bright as my current headlight high beam that's fine. I'm mostly concerned about the present battery drain and weight. I have a 10W on a motorized bicycle and if it's 3X as bright it should be fine on it's own. The extra LEDs flanking would be for peripheral but on the high beam switch.
    Last edited by Trail Woman; 02-12-2018 at 04:09 PM.

  10. #9
    Senior Member Trail Woman's Avatar
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    Wow...this looks WAY better.
    s-l1600.jpg

    https://www.ebay.ca/itm/LED-Light-Ba...8AAOSwa6JafGsE

    Specification: LED Power: 60W (12pcs5w LEDs) Brightness: 6000lm Input Voltage: 10-30V DC Input Current: 12V4A,24V2A Color Temperature: 6000K. Material: Diecast aluminum housing. Lens material: Toughened glass. Mounting Bracket: Stainless steel. Optional Beam: Combo Flood/Spot beam pattern(10/20-180 degree)
    Last edited by Trail Woman; 02-12-2018 at 02:19 PM.

  11. #10
    Senior Member Fred's Avatar
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    Looks more like 18 of the standard 3 watt CREE chipsets; 6 in the spot reflectors and 6 w/o reflectors on each side. Who knows for sure, thought I counted 18 chips? Give it a try.

    If not r.e. post #8 you should wire any multiple lights in parallel so each sees 12V, not in series where each will have a 6V drop. Bike will never generate 24V without a transformer. Sounds like the elimination of the H4 will leave bike without low beams. If you want Low beams they could be the 2 LED pods originally proposed and be driven off the existing low beam wiring. That low beam circuit is alway energized; hi-beam switch simply energizes another filament ( or LED array) in parallel with the active Low beam.
    Peterb likes this.
    2003 TW200 "Betty Boop"
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    Hidden Content All Things Considered I’ld Rather Be Motorcycling

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