JNS LEd Head light
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Thread: JNS LEd Head light

  1. #1
    Senior Member Tw200quebec's Avatar
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    JNS LEd Head light

    Would like more information on this, has anyone installed this on there TW, Is there a big difference on light output and brightness VS the stock halogen? I installed a replacement LED bulb last summer and was not satisfied with the results so reinstalled the halogen. Need more light and better night vision! This product is really interesting, not sure if I should purchase black or chrome? Photos and videos would be greatly appreciated

    JNS Engineering Yamaha TW200 LED Headlight Kit
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  2. #2
    Senior Member turbodieseli4i6's Avatar
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    I have one on my DR650. It would be the same light output as the TW LED. I can say without a doubt, it is all that and more. The difference between the stock DR light and a Cyclops led doesn't even come close to the JNS.
    This is what it looks like on the DR. Actually it looks better in person. Should look the same on the TW.
    I'll buy one for the TW one of these days.
    DR650 & DRZ400 LED Headlight Kit | Page 5 | Adventure Rider
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  3. #3
    Senior Member Moabman's Avatar
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    Turbo, so you're saying the JNS is better than the cyclops? Just confirming from your wording above.
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  5. #4
    Senior Member turbodieseli4i6's Avatar
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    Yes. The Cyclops does put out a lot of light, but not much cut off. I still have the 7000 Cyclops in my NC700X, but I have Fog a spotlights on it. The JNS is the best headlight I've tried so far.
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  6. #5
    Senior Member Moabman's Avatar
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    Thanks for the clarification.
    JNS for me, then !

  7. #6
    Junior Member summerman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by turbodieseli4i6 View Post
    I have one on my DR650. It would be the same light output as the TW LED. I can say without a doubt, it is all that and more. The difference between the stock DR light and a Cyclops led doesn't even come close to the JNS.
    This is what it looks like on the DR. Actually it looks better in person. Should look the same on the TW.
    I'll buy one for the TW one of these days.
    DR650 & DRZ400 LED Headlight Kit | Page 5 | Adventure Rider

    I just installed a JnS Engineering on my 07 tw200 and it was so easy and works great. So much safer at night and uses way less electricity. The first change you should make is this.

  8. #7
    Senior Member Fred's Avatar
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    Would be nice if someone posted a picture or video of the light put out by the JNS headlight in the real world environment. Light against a garage door, or in a city nightscape with other lights while helpful does not really show what to expect on a darkened road.
    I'm just curios how the JNS compares to some of the under $25 options I enjoy, especially the long range beam intensity.
    admiral, Sthrnromr and Purple like this.
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  9. #8
    Super Moderator Purple's Avatar
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    I’ve got a JNS black unit on its way over here – and I’ll report on it shortly (it’s currently stuck in customs)

    The deciding factor to go with the JNS unit, was a recent MOT (road worthiness certificate), and I used a new shop to do it. They took a look at my LED and the interaction with the reflector on the headlight, and decided it was too erratic, eg “no good”. Rather than make a simple phone call, they then took it upon themselves to put it all back to good ‘ol Halogen – (fecking useless) – before issuing the bike with the relevant paperwork

    They told me what they’d done when I went to pick up the bike. My initial thought was “I’ll soon have that back together”, except for one small detail I discovered later – they’d lost the H4 collar that dictates how the bulb sits in the reflector

    This is a common fault when simply replacing the bulb, and one that I’d researched at length earlier and often comes up in the “Cyclops” bulb reviews. If you have an LED that relies on the angles of the reflector in the headlight, it’s the reflector that dictates the “cut off”, and can also interfere with the total output of the LED bulb

    To avoid this happening, you have to stick with the type of bulb the reflector was originally designed for – (or you’ll run into a grumpy MOT inspector). What works perfectly well in the daylight or on the trail at night, apparently doesn’t cut much mustard with the tin pot little Hitler who did my MOT. Ironically, the last place DID pass it, but to get the MOT done twice at two different locations would be as costly as buying a new LED bulb – so I cut my losses, lesson learned – no point in crying over spilt milk

    The advantage of the JNS unit, is that it uses “forward firing” LED’s, that are not dependant on any reflector (which is just as well, as it’s blacked out on my ordered unit). This means that you get the full potential of the LED bulbs in use, with a more defined cut off and side areas – something a simple bulb swap cannot do by its very nature

    As a sealed unit, the beam efficiency and characteristics of the JNS unit are “pre-defined”, and about as good as it gets. The trouble with the “mix and match” options out there, is that by mixing components, you are not going to get the full potential of the bulb, and risk reducing the bulbs potential by scattering the light everywhere but where you want it

    The above is what tipped me over the edge towards JNS, and sure, it’s pricey, but look at what we spend on racks. In terms of priority, I think I need to see where I’m going first and foremost …….
    Darth likes this.
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  10. #9
    Senior Member RaZed1's Avatar
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    The difference between the JNS(or other good quality lights) and the plethora of cheap knock-off LED lights is the beam pattern. Cheapo LED's might appear bright initially but get on a dark road and you realize they don't light up much of anything (same goes for the majority of the led "bulbs" you drop in place of a H4 halogen). The light is scattered off into space and the trees, not really on the road where you want it. LED headlights look funny because LEDs need very different projectors to focus the light.

    The JNS is considerably brighter than the stock headlight, and has a very sharp low beam cutoff(good). I left the plastic headlight cowl off initially and brought a 10mm wrench to adjust the two upper bolts, which are slotted to allow you to adjust the vertical aim.

    There's "correct" ways to set the proper height, but the easy way is to note where the cutoff falls while riding around in traffic at night. While following a typical sedan at a reasonable following distance, your cutoff should be somewhere between the license plate and rear deck lid- i.e just under the height of the side mirrors.

    If you realize the inside of the car in front of you looks like a movie theater, it's because your headlight is projecting into there, and everyone on the road secretly wishes you'd die in a fire.

    The high beam on the JNS is a singular "spot", that projects a relatively narrow vertical oval centered and above the low beam, which stays on. To me, the high beam could have a "fuller" pattern with more throw to the sides. It doesn't really bother me on the road much, but compared to the JW Speaker led on my cruiser which is a small sun when you flick to high beam, the JNS's high beam feels pretty wimpy.
    Darth likes this.

  11. #10
    Senior Member Darth's Avatar
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    Thanks for the great write-ups, Purple & RaZ!

    Totally happy with my JNS "black" unit...worth every penny.
    And, it's just sexy as hell!
    Plus, it's a good company with great customer service...

    Suggestion: For the price, I would like to see them include a set of the quality screw-connection splicers.
    (John: Hint-Hint!)
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