Rocky Mountain ATV Rack. My crude modification.
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Thread: Rocky Mountain ATV Rack. My crude modification.

  1. #1
    Senior Member Cerberus's Avatar
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    Rocky Mountain ATV Rack. My crude modification.

    I purchased this rack after much research. The top of the line Cycleracks, while appealing was also a little overkill for my purpose not to mention the price. While I do not mind spending the money for something I can and will really use, the Cycleracks was way more than I needed. Enter the Rocky Mountain Rack. At $70 it looked pretty good. I realize its shortcomings, the rear light mounting points that is, but for my intended purpose it was adequate. Yes, this rack will not make Outer Mongolia with a 60 lb. load but then again that's not my intended destination plus I'm a very light traveler, I never carry more than I really need. However, a little more real estate was needed so I set out to try for some improvement. Please keep in mind I have no fabricating skills, I'm an urban dweller lucky enough to have a garage. I own a tape measure, a drill, a hacksaw and an some wrenches and that is it. From the included images I'm sure you can see what went into this. Nothing spectacular, specially in comparison with some of the stuff some of the members here can build. The only weight this rack will have to support is that of a 3 gal. Rotopax, let's call it 20 LB? Everything else I'll pack will go behind my back. All in all it came out fairly stiff with very minimal flex. Material was about $30 including aluminum stock and metric bolts. Hopefully it will take me down Baja and back without breaking, specially if we consider that I'll stay off dirt trails, at least on this trip anyway as I have no experience whatsoever. Constructive criticism appreciated. I hope I attached the jpegs correctly.IMG_0720.jpgIMG_0720.jpg
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    Last edited by Cerberus; 02-05-2019 at 07:39 PM.

  2. #2
    Senior Member TW-Brian's Avatar
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    I like it!

    Nice basic design that should meet your needs just fine. Easy to adjust, modify, or repair if needed.

    What is your next project?

  3. #3
    Senior Member Cerberus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TW-Brian View Post
    I like it!

    Nice basic design that should meet your needs just fine. Easy to adjust, modify, or repair if needed.

    What is your next project?
    Thank you TW Brian, simple is just my speed. My next project aside from finding a suitable top box that's sturdy but not too heavy would be to try to reinforce the rear lights mounting points but so far I have not come up with anything that would not require welding. Hopefully if I sit there long enough looking at them maybe a light bulb will turn on. Of course painting it black is next. Thanks again.
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    Senior Member stagewex's Avatar
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    I think that looks great, nicely thought out build.
    Are those nuts sticking upwards or some sort of bungee attachment things? I would have used Flat pan bolts so the top was smooth but that's just me.
    Whatever you are going to put on top, if it is a hard top-case you'll want it flush, not sticking up in the air at all, no voids.
    Smooth on top will also let you take advantage of the angle-aluminum you have fore & aft which is a nice idea BTW. You can adjust that smaller or larger using you same design when you find what you are going to mount.

    If it's soft case or day bag, you are good to go.
    Last edited by stagewex; 02-06-2019 at 06:51 AM.
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    Senior Member Fred's Avatar
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    Looks good. I'm a guy who occasionally runs into things so fear sharp edges like the rack's corners. No big deal, if mine I would get surround perimeter with closed cell pipe insulation. Make mitered corners like this perhaps. Here is an idea if you are concerned:maxresdefault.jpg
    Stuff comes in several diameters and grades, all all slit longitudinally with self adhesive strips on the cut. I prefer the style that is a bit more durable with a more rubbery feel as opposed to the more crumbly stiffer foam seen the the above picture. Rubbery stuff like this has a better feel. Both last longer with tape or something to protect from UV and abrasion.Copper-Pipe-Insulation-Air-Conditioning-NBR-Foam.jpg_350x350.jpg
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  7. #6
    Senior Member Cerberus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stagewex View Post
    I think that looks great, nicely thought out build.
    Are those nuts sticking upwards or some sort of bungee attachment things? I would have used Flat pan bolts so the top was smooth but that's just me.
    Whatever you are going to put on top, if it is a hard top-case you'll want it flush, not sticking up in the air at all, no voids.
    Smooth on top will also let you take advantage of the angle-aluminum you have fore & aft which is a nice idea BTW. You can adjust that smaller or larger using you same design when you find what you are going to mount.

    If it's soft case or day bag, you are good to go.
    Thank you Stagewex and you are absolutely correct, flat pan bolts would have been a much better choice for all the reasons you mentioned, if I knew what those bolts were when I started this project, haha. My knowledge about such matters is less than zero. I was in the beauty/photography business before I retired so not much chance to get mechanically inclined, haha. But who’s to say that I cannot replace those bolts as soon as I Google what they look like? Thanks again, constructive criticism always welcome.
    Sthrnromr and jtomelliott49 like this.

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    Senior Member Cerberus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fred View Post
    Looks good. I'm a guy who occasionally runs into things so fear sharp edges like the rack's corners. No big deal, if mine I would get surround perimeter with closed cell pipe insulation. Make mitered corners like this perhaps. Here is an idea if you are concerned:maxresdefault.jpg
    Stuff comes in several diameters and grades, all all slit longitudinally with self adhesive strips on the cut. I prefer the style that is a bit more durable with a more rubbery feel as opposed to the more crumbly stiffer foam seen the the above picture. Rubbery stuff like this has a better feel. Both last longer with tape or something to protect from UV and abrasion.Copper-Pipe-Insulation-Air-Conditioning-NBR-Foam.jpg_350x350.jpg
    Thank you Fred. That’s my next trip to Home Depot. I did round up all the sharp corners with a Dremel but they are still too sharp for old people with thin skin, haha. I was trying to find a remedy for that issue but pipe insulation did not cross my mind. Again, thank you for the suggestion.
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  9. #8
    Senior Member grewen's Avatar
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    nice first effort. i have to ask, if the only thing the rack will carry is a rotopax, then would it not be better to mount a rotopax mount on the original rack that is all ready on the bike?
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  10. #9
    Senior Member Cerberus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by grewen View Post
    nice first effort. i have to ask, if the only thing the rack will carry is a rotopax, then would it not be better to mount a rotopax mount on the original rack that is all ready on the bike?
    Yes, the thought crossed my mind but I wanted something a little wider to hold the whole size of the Rotopax, in other words I did not want part of the Rotopax to hang past the edges of the rack. The other reason was that I wanted a place to bolt a tool tube or two and the sides of the rack extension will serve that function well. I may be wrong but I’m thinking I may still be able to use the Rotopax mount by using longer bolts in that area. If you have suggestions please share, I can use all the help I can get. Thank you.
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  11. #10
    Senior Member grewen's Avatar
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    i did the same with 2 tool tubes, worked good. as far as mounting a rotopax on your rack, you will have to do something with all those bolts sticking up as they will damage the plastic rotopax. here is a pic of my rack and top box. i did have a rotopax mounted on top of the box, but it was a pain in the butt, so i sold it and bought a clark tank which worked much better102.jpg
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