Frame touch-up vs. Complete redo - Page 2
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Thread: Frame touch-up vs. Complete redo

  1. #11
    Senior Member TW Newb's Avatar
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    I'm just touching up spots with a wire brush and a paint pen for now.

    If the day comes when I need major work I'll pull it apart and powder coat or paint it. The auto body shop we work with has some very tough paints available.
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  2. #12
    Senior Member Darth's Avatar
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    If a bike is new, or paint is in overall good shape, or recently touch up/sprayed and gets chipped, and you don't want to 'go heavy', paint pens work well.
    I've done a ton of touch ups on black frames or silver paint chips, or chrome.
    They also come in most standard colors and some metallics, but it's tough to match. Black comes in gloss or flat.
    Get the chip real clean with solvent of course, and try to avoid leaving too much paint in the chip...it will run or sag.
    Paint will usually "flow" into cracks.

    I showed classic & vintage Brit & Euro bikes for years that I also rode (never owned a "show-only" bike!) and part of the show prep was fixing paint chips, nicks & cracks.
    I know were not "trophy hunting" with our li'l T-Dubs, but who doesn't like to have a good looking, corrosion free bike?

    Ditto all above with small bottles of enamel & small "artist" brush.
    This is usually better overall, for sure on larger chips.
    Last edited by Darth; 04-08-2019 at 12:21 PM.
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  3. #13
    Senior Member Xracer's Avatar
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    If you do decide to use paint make sure to put a clear coat over it. That way it will be protected from gas and oil products. If not then it will be washed away from spills.

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  5. #14
    Senior Member mrlmd's Avatar
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    I live right on the Gulf coast in Florida, it's my backyard, and I have just about given up on trying to fight rust. Everything metal that I own - motorcycles, trailers, golf cart, cars - rusts from the moisture and salty air here. At least once a year I scrape or sand the bubbled paint and rust off my bike, coat it with Ospho (a rust converter) and repaint spots with a brush using a colored rust inhibiting paint that matches the bike. Even my Cyclerack totally rusted after 5 years, and the new one I got as a replacement not even a year ago, is rusting again right through its' powdercoat. So much for a "quality" product that can't even sit outside without deteriorating.
    What I just found works the best is to spray the areas with a galvanizing coating (comes in a spray can like paint) then repaint over it. So far no rust coming through, even on a rusty coated boat trailer fender. This coating and its' adherence to the metal seems to do the trick. Time will tell how long it lasts.
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  6. #15
    Junior Member 87TWCafe's Avatar
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    I think getting my bike powdercoated was the best decision, but it was in rough shape cosmetically. You'll spend more time and money than you think for a rebuild, but it will come out better than any paintjob.
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  7. #16
    Senior Member Smitty Blackstone's Avatar
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    I would disassemble and blast the frame. Then prime with the heavy galvanizing compound. That stuff works great.
    Then I'd repaint as stock.

    Took a whole CT70 to the body shop supply house a few towns away once, just to get a couple of cans made up for a restoration of another bike. That spectrometer camera device is spot on.
    GaryL, Darth and Sthrnromr like this.

  8. #17
    Junior Member KLRCris's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Purple View Post
    Chain lube - gets into where paint doesn't - repeat each year ......
    This right here is good advice. Been using it for years on various bikes. where the flaking was minimal and did not warrant a complete tear down and respray. There are alos some great paint safe spray on corrosion inhibitors in the hard ware store (Marine section) that works extremely well.

  9. #18
    Senior Member GaryL's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KLRCris View Post
    This right here is good advice. Been using it for years on various bikes. where the flaking was minimal and did not warrant a complete tear down and respray. There are alos some great paint safe spray on corrosion inhibitors in the hard ware store (Marine section) that works extremely well.
    Chain Lube or oil in general can and do get into places where paint may not. This cannot be denied but there is another effect of this oil where it does get into. Oil tends to provide a sticky surface for other debris to cling onto. Oil grabs dirt, dust, salt and any other crud and allows for it to stick like glue and often times the oil that should be protecting breaks down and gives these debris a vehicle where they can remain stuck doing the damage. Some years back us older guys will remember how our cars and trucks were sprayed with a tar/oil based undercoating substance that was supposed to protect the metal from corrosion. The undercoating actually did work quite well as long as it was properly applied and had no adherence issues anywhere where it was applied. Where ever the stuff did not adhere it allowed water and other contaminants to get in so under the topical under coating the frame was rotting worse than had it not been undercoated. Where ever our TWs are ridden in a salty environment it is always best to wash the salt off as soon as humanly possible and in those areas on the frame where ever water and salt tend to pool they should be dried off and any welds should be sealed so as to never allow the intrusion of water and salt. The swing arm and by where the shock mounts is a constant problem area that should be addressed from day one.

    GaryL
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