RT180 forks on a TW...what do I need?
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Thread: RT180 forks on a TW...what do I need?

  1. #1
    Senior Member Trail Woman's Avatar
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    Different forks on a TW...what do I need?

    I would have PMed a member (bikerjosh for example) but the site is different now...?

    So I'm planning on buying a set of TW triples to bore out to 35mm. And the RT 180 forks will have roughly 1.5 inch more height. Since I'm already pushing it higher with a Rox riser, I will need longer brake line and speedo cable but I'm not sure what to look for....maybe XT250 parts?

    People speak highly of Tri-Z forks but I don't see any anywhere...any other suggestions for raising a TW ~2"?

    Once I get this all sorted I'll be adding the 2.5" extended swing arm I've been sitting on. and likely making a spacer to raise it till I figure out a slightly stiffer rear spring. The stock is fine (only bottoms out on jumps over a 2') except with the added leverage of the swing arm I suspect I will want a slightly stiffer spring...maybe the white one from procycle?

    Thoughts?
    Last edited by Trail Woman; 07-22-2019 at 06:51 PM.
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  2. #2
    Senior Member Fred's Avatar
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    I have seen the RT180 fork swap but saw no details on what is entailed for proper disc and caliper alignment. Dip into XT & TTR parts bins for cables and hoses.
    Forum member Gerry built my 35mm Tri-Z fork/ Banshee shock/ Raptor spring(?) set-up and I really, really like it.
    I have complete TTR front end from 36mm forks, triples, cables, disc, hose, master cylinder to brake lever courtesy of CJ7Pilot to be mated with another Banshee shock/Raptor spring combo for Betty Boop. Supposedly finite element analysis by others indicates even with the 36mm bore the point of failure should be buckling of fork tubes before fracturing of the bored out cast triples.
    2003 TW200 "Betty Boop"
    2006 TW200 "Nibbler", a.k.a. “Mr.Gizmo"
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  3. #3
    Senior Member Trail Woman's Avatar
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    Thanks Fred

    Gerry did a great job on that build. I read is suspension thread over a few time as well.

    I believe the RT rotor is the same size but the caliper mounts not compatible. I wonder if a bracket adapter might work to use the TW caliper.

    Is the TTR triple TW compatible? That would be nice too to get a taller skinnier front tire.

    I have a R6 mono shock that has one seized needle bearing..I'm hoping the rest is ok but I won't know till I mount it.
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  5. #4
    Senior Member Trail Woman's Avatar
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    Just payed for the TW triple tree. It's on!
    Now I need to figure out how to bore them or who to pay. My guess would be to shim the gap to match the 33mm and bore it to 35mm. As far as tools....that's one hell of a mill!
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  6. #5
    Super Moderator JerseyJeeper's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trail Woman View Post
    Just payed for the TW triple tree. It's on!
    Now I need to figure out how to bore them or who to pay. My guess would be to shim the gap to match the 33mm and bore it to 35mm. As far as tools....that's one hell of a mill!
    You can use a long large tapered 34mm to 35mm reamer to do it. I got mine off ebay for like 45 bucks and then resold it for 65. You just need to create a little better starting ramp on the reamer with a bench grinder so you can get it started strait in the 33mm bore. You do need to lock a shim in (good) just like like you said...(to have the proper gap).. I used a hole hog drill on low RPM on the last two holes (got tired of twisting) but did the first two by hand.

    Machine shops will hit you with a setup charge to build a jig to hold it so they can use a bar. Just put it in a vice and hog it out.

    Better yet just lower a KTM and be done with it Ms.. TWBrapppsss.. LOL

    35mm Reamer.JPG
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  7. #6
    Senior Member Trail Woman's Avatar
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    Thanks JJ

    That's good to hear. I think I can do this...I don't think my wrist could handle sanding it out. Hole hog it is.

    If I knew about the KTM freeride 250f I might have went that route when I could afford it. No regrets though I still love my Tdub...just needs a little tweaking.

  8. #7
    Super Moderator JerseyJeeper's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trail Woman View Post
    Thanks JJ

    That's good to hear. I think I can do this...I don't think my wrist could handle sanding it out. Hole hog it is.

    If I knew about the KTM freeride 250f I might have went that route when I could afford it. No regrets though I still love my Tdub...just needs a little tweaking.
    Take your time and watch ebay, those reamers come up cheap often enough. Best wishes wit it
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  9. #8
    Super Moderator JerseyJeeper's Avatar
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    Oh yea, the longer the better. The longer it is, the less resistance when cutting..(do to the reduced angle of cut).
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  10. #9
    Senior Member Trail Woman's Avatar
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    I'm not sure what type of bit you're referring to...

    I would think try a step bit or scribe 1mm from the edge to find center then a forstner bit.
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  11. #10
    Super Moderator JerseyJeeper's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trail Woman View Post
    I'm not sure what type of bit you're referring to...

    I would think try a step bit or scribe 1mm from the edge to find center then a forstner bit.
    Sorry if i said "Bit" I mean REAMER. Also, if you use a hole hog, use a variable speed one in low gear at the lowest RPM. Not the model with a click-on / click-off switch.

    Forstner is for wood.. no good. Step bit, no good...

    Use A tapered hand reamer (or stepped reamer if you can find one but rare) (see pic for tapered): They are on ebay all the time.. Tapered finishes off to a parallel bore, no taper when done reaming.


    35mm Reamer.JPG
    Last edited by JerseyJeeper; 05-08-2019 at 01:28 PM.
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