MtnMan75's low to mid range moderately moderate power mod
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Thread: MtnMan75's low to mid range moderately moderate power mod

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    Senior Member MtnMan75's Avatar
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    MtnMan75's low to mid range moderately moderate power mod

    Ok... my setup: stock exhaust (prefer to keep it quiet). Everything else regarding the engine is stock save the air filter has been changed to a Twin Air dual element filter and I run an NGK DR8EIX Iridium plug.
    This mod will net you extra low to mid range torque and bring your mixture closer to the way it should have been on the showroom floor if not for our lovely environmentalists out there worried about the output of a sub 200cc engine. You may even notice a little gain at top end in 5th, but nothing to write home about. You'll feel this one with your butt dyno in the lower gears on the trails and it put a on my face.

    The air snorkel was modded as follows:
    Air Snorkel.JPG
    The best way to do this is to pull the snorkel out from the top of the bike, carefully removing the little section toward the downward pointed restriction on the other end of this compartment as it comes stock. Take your time and use a very sharp knife in slicing motions to the edge of the flange and then slowly whittle the rubber into a curved shape for the Isle of Man intake look. (I just did that because... well it was already dark out and I was bored. Not sure if that adds anything at all for your power, but don't it look sexy? )

    The easiest way to get this boot back in is to fold it in on itself clear up to just before the last bend and use electrical tape to hold it in this shape. (If it is dirty as all get out like mine, use some alcohol to wipe it down as the tape will stick to the rubber better.) Down near the end wrap the tape on itself once or twice. This will be your unwrap point later. It's harder if you do it from the bottom end up (guess how I know?) As you push it through, shine a light up in there and use a long shank Phillips to guide the end down into it's place in the airbox. As it gets close, if you are careful, you can use a pair of channel locks, pulling it down while pushing from the top and stop when the first flange meets the box. At this point carefully use a wide end screwdriver to work the groove back in place while pulling lightly on the air filter end. If you pull too hard, and it falls into the hole, just pull it out from the air filter end and try again (guess how I know).

    I'm at 3000' ASL and am using a ProCycle jet kit. At present I have installed the Yamaha 34 pilot, and Procycle 135 main jet, with the Yamaha 3C5-14336-00 needle with no shims (this is the needle that comes with the kit). (and of course the Twin Air filter, though that isn't that much of a factor).

    btw... Removal of the air snorkel really gets you nothing extra with stock exhaust and carb as you get into a fight with the jetting of going too lean with a reserve of available air in that pocket where the snorkel fits through that you have to compensate for on acceleration and somehow level out at WOT which is more of a headache than it's worth. If you intend on opening up the exhaust it would probably work out or maybe using a different carb, but in my setup it just wasn't going to happen as I always had a spot that gave me grief somewhere on the throttle.
    Last edited by MtnMan75; 10-02-2019 at 06:57 PM.
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    Senior Member Apolloha's Avatar
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    More pictures?
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    Senior Member MtnMan75's Avatar
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    I should have taken pictures while I was doing it, but didn't think about it. If you mean of the bike itself... I can probably get around to that this weekend. Not much else to see on the air box part of things, and for the love of God please don't ask me to pull that air snorkel back out again. It's a beast to get back in with the air box still on the bike.
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    2013 TW200 "Timba Wattla"
    2013 DRZ400S
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    Senior Member BUMBLESPECIMOODA's Avatar
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    [/QUOTE]btw... Removal of the air snorkel really gets you nothing extra with stock exhaust and carb as you get into a fight with the jetting of going too lean with a reserve of available air in that pocket where the snorkel fits through that you have to compensate for on acceleration and somehow level out at WOT which is more of a headache than it's worth. If you intend on opening up the exhaust it would probably work out or maybe using a different carb, but in my setup it just wasn't going to happen as I always had a spot that gave me grief somewhere on the throttle.[/QUOTE]

    I got a jet kit in my carb, so it's not really stock. I yoinked out the rubber snorkle, and man did it improve the low-end. Bike sounds growlier too. My air-screw is currently at 2,3/4-turns from 2,1/2. I'm now debating to rejet for winter, or just put it away.

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    Senior Member grewen's Avatar
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    if you guys are pulling the snorkel, how are you keeping the mud and water out of the carb ( or at least the air filter ) when off road?
    Last edited by grewen; 10-16-2019 at 02:07 PM.
    Greg

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    Senior Member MtnMan75's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by grewen View Post
    if you guys are pulling the snorkel, how are you keeping the mud and water out of the carb ( or at least the air filter ) when off road?
    The level that the mud and water would enter doesn't change with or without the snorkel unless you modify the airbox. The snorkels on the dual sports usually serve a purpose of both noise mitigation and leaner conditions for emissions.
    Last edited by MtnMan75; 10-16-2019 at 04:15 PM.
    2013 TW200 "Timba Wattla"
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    Senior Member grewen's Avatar
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    and if you put more air through, without rejeting, you'll get an even leaner condition
    Greg

    2019 honda cb500x
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    2018 suzuki dr200

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    Senior Member Fred's Avatar
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    The former owner of one of my TWs experimented with forced induction. Once his pressurization experiment pieces were removed there wasn't even a place to put a snorkel.
    Bike runs just fine, no jetting issues. I have a unmodified OEM air box to install if I wish but never saw the need. I find the additional induction noise entertaining.
    It is a little un-happy in a heavy downpour, but then again so am I. Both of us could benefit from additional waterproofing.
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    Senior Member BUMBLESPECIMOODA's Avatar
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    I added more foam around the airbox area, to prevent sling-off from the rear wheel, entering the area. Might put some filter foam in the upper-most opening of the airbox, but I cant see crud getting in, unless I ride with out the seat.

  11. #10
    Senior Member MtnMan75's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by grewen View Post
    and if you put more air through, without rejeting, you'll get an even leaner condition
    Right... I did re-jet. Mine was already lean with the OEM setup so it just made it more so. Just got an AEM AFR to install today as I plan on tinkering some more. Debating on buying a used ebay header pipe to weld the bung on just for tuning and then stick the original header pipe back on. If I leave this on there in the woods it's just going to get destroyed. Plus - I might just buy used header pipes for my other toys and request some additional bungs from AEM for the same purpose.
    grewen likes this.
    2013 TW200 "Timba Wattla"
    2013 DRZ400S
    1999 Bombardier 500 Traxter

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