2 hour DIY extra lightweight soft-pannier mounts
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Thread: 2 hour DIY extra lightweight soft-pannier mounts

  1. #1
    Senior Member jontow's Avatar
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    I was looking around for some ideas for soft bag supports for my cyclerack, and while I very much like the cycleracks add-on mounts, they're not exactly what I was looking for, and .. well, I'm saving my $60 at the moment for some new pegs



    Part of what irritates me about all the mounting setups I've seen is that they're heavy.. or at least they look it, I don't own any to feel for myself. They all seem to be made out of steel tubing, though, which I like for its sturdiness, but I really don't want the extra weight. The cyclerack adds plenty. I've got some old foreign military surplus over-the-shoulder type bags with a water-resistant flap type cover, and really cool old leather strapping, and wanted to put them to use as saddle bags on the TW. The backs are unprotected from water, so, I don't know how they'll fair, but there really is only one way to find out.



    I opted to use some 1/8" aluminum flatstock from the local hardware store to build my supports: 6 pieces in all, and a requirement was that I be able to bolt it together, because I'm not setup to weld aluminum. What I do like about it, though, is that its extra easy to work with otherwise, and tends to be tough enough for my uses. What I don't like about it: same thing as steel, I haven't figured out how to properly bend it into a U-shape without taking a lot of time laying it out. So, I tend to have extra material hanging off where I build my 'clamps' on the ends.







    The build is fairly simple, requiring a handful of 1/4" grade 5 or better bolts and nuts, a drill bit that'll poke a hole big enough for a 1/4" bolt to go through, and roughly: (2) 4ft 1" wide aluminum bars, and (1) 4ft 3/4" wide aluminum bar. I cut the 1" wide bars into two ~equal lengths each, with about 8-10" of leftover from each 4ft, and bend one end of each piece into a "U" sized for the cyclerack (4 pieces with "U"s total). They get marked, and drilled for a bolt to go through the "U" end to clamp with, and the other end to attach another support. They just hang over the cyclerack. The piece that adds some rigidity uses the license plate bolts, and is made from the 3/4" flat stock: 2 pieces get cut off, equal length, and bent twice, then drilled to match the pattern for the hanging pieces, and the other end drilled to attach to the back of the license plate.







    Put altogether, its fairly solid, for randomly bolted together thin aluminum bars, and probably the lightest weight setup I've seen yet. I've still gotta trim off some excess, round some corners, and maybe re-engineer the straps on the bags, but so far I'm liking it. Doesn't detract too much from the TW's sex appeal, and certainly performs the main goal: keeping the bags in place and away from the muffler and moving parts.







    overheat likes this.
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    1997 TW, well loved, a bit modified.

  2. #2
    Senior Member mrlmd's Avatar
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    Good idea - functional and lightweight and best of all - inexpensive. If I did something like that, and I probably will, I'd put some rubber, like from and old inner tube, around the cyclerack bars to prevent scratching and lessen the vibration and noise from the aluminum bars bent around it.

  3. #3
    Senior Member jontow's Avatar
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    Not a bad idea! I haven't had a chance to take a test ride on it, but there shouldn't be much vibration, they're clamped fairly well. If there is, I'm with you on this one.
    --

    1997 TW, well loved, a bit modified.

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  5. #4
    Senior Member lizrdbrth's Avatar
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    More than one way to skin a cat, no?



    I've been fooling round with using some ALICE packframes in the same general manner, but removable.



    I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you.

    Powdercoated '87 frame, extended swingarm, YZ fork legs, ATV tire, 14/55, XT350 tank, spliced quick-release seat, disc brake conversion, beeg headlight, beeger rack, Lizrdcooler, Lizrdventz and bunch of other stuff all covered in invisible ink.

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  6. #5
    Senior Member jontow's Avatar
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    Yeah, these are removable, but .. you need to have a pair of 7/16" wrenches to do it, and it takes 2-3mins. I always carry 7/16" wrenches anyway, because of the number of bolts I've added to/replaced on the bike that are 1/4-20
    --

    1997 TW, well loved, a bit modified.

  7. #6
    Senior Member operose's Avatar
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    Guys I'm on the low-buck luggage rack bandwagon as well, you should see what I've got cooked up. You'll like it. The prototype is going on the DRZ but the same idea would work on the TW pretty well and I'd like to build a better one for that. If we had a pipe kinker we could crank them out. Pics tomorrow or I owe ya a beer
    ITCB

  8. #7
    Senior Member mtkd's Avatar
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    Only one possible problem i see here is that the mudflap is bolted to tiny tabs on the sub frame. My tabs broke of after a light crash and off with them cam my mudflap plate and taillight. I would be weary of stressing anything connected to those crappy little tabs
    -Szj



    2001 TW

  9. #8
    Senior Member jontow's Avatar
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    Good catch.. I'll have another look at that aspect of the mount.
    --

    1997 TW, well loved, a bit modified.

  10. #9
    Senior Member operose's Avatar
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    Here are those pics. I already owe Jon a beer, you too for sure Russ but not sure how to upload it



    This is just sitting there, not in final position or anything but to show what's being used (the arms of an old chair, and a piece of pipe.......)











    For some reason there are no pics of the whole thing. The chair arms were perfect already, I just cut a 13" piece of 1-1/4" pipe to put them into. Now need to make some tabs to mount to the subframe, and some supports to go to foot peg mounts.
    overheat likes this.
    ITCB

  11. #10
    elB
    elB is offline
    Junior Member elB's Avatar
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    hello,

    i was wondering how these worked out!

    an update on the pictures and a small how to would be nice in case it was effective!

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