The TW named Orbit; mods & x-spearmints
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  1. #1
    Senior Member Vagabond's Avatar
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    The TW named Orbit; mods & x-spearmints

    Only a year ago, I was talking with a friend about wanting to get a small motorbike. It had to be a dual sport; was looking at XT225/Serow, Honda CRF230... wanted great fuel economy, high reliability, good on and off road. The #1 purpose for the bike would be transportation; exploring, wandering around in the mountains and everywhere else (serious wanderlust) plus simply running errands. The friend asked had I looked at TW200 and I really had not. I was hooked. This forum told me to look for a 2001 or later bike for the disc brake and better electrics. Craigslist came through after a longish search.

    In a single day I bought the 2004 TW with 6200 city commuter miles, a decent set of front & rear Cycleracks, the huge 68 tooth rear sprocket, plus some riding gear that looked appropriate for what I wanted to do with the bike.

    These are recent photos immediately after the XT350 tank- in temporary paint- was installed.

    P7060914.JPG
    P7060915.JPG

    The first thing was the shot front tire- replaced with a Shinko 244 x 5.10. Happiest at around 10 psi. In deep soft anything it washes around. Standing up (weighting the front) calms it down.

    The intake valve stem was severely mushroomed over. That was the first engine surgery. Don't neglect your valve adjustment!!

    Cycleracks front and rear. Can't leave anything stock; the rear rack got tabs welded on so a box could bolt down, then the rear bar was cut and rolled back to accommodate the huge North Face bag. The front rack got tabs added to support extra lighting since the headlight is blocked by anything on top of the rack.

    VisonX Solo Solstice LED driving lights ('borrowed' from an Argo 8x8 that only uses them during winter), mounted on the front rack so they see over and around objects on the rack.

    Carb modded with 128 main, 3 shims under the needle, 2.5 turns out.

    Kickstart assembled from a used 2000 TW engine plus the kick lever. Engine surgery #2.

    Dual rear sprocket setup: 15 T front, 50 T rear for road, 68 T rear for pulling stumps & chevy pickups. High Overdrive is 9.080:1, bottom low is 42.613:1. You can walk with the bike in that low gear.
    P7180959.JPG
    EK O-ring chain.

    Footpegs built up from originals. Nice and big!

    Handlbar vibration was severe. Pro Taper ATV High SE bars, Pro Grip 714's, but what really fixed the vibs was lead shot in the ends! Also on the bars: Ken Sean Folding mirrors (modified by straightening and re bending), Garmin Rino radio/gps mount, some Acerbis wind guards that were kicking around. Then, with the XT350 tank, inverted handlebar clamps were used for risers. Two 12 volt outlets, one at the bars, the second in the tool box.

    Seat: located an extra seat pan/foam and have installed a Saddlemens Gel pad in it plus leveling the seat out. Ongoing experiment, sewed a new cover to fit. Now it must be revisited to make it fit the new tank!

    TCI skid pan with engine side guards, one of the best things on the bike.

    Modified brake pedal- simply drilled out the forward hole where the brake control rod attaches- better pedal position for standing riding.

    Stainless steel Allen bolts throughout the bike to replace the originals. Carry 1 allen wrench.

    XT350 gas tank, after pulling dents and fairing out, this is a very recent addition and not in final form. Using TW petcock.

    Paint is an ongoing experiment. I have an extra front fender & some side plastics so can fiddle with different colors. Everything original from bike is in storage, untouched.

    Some other related gear:
    I made a full cover from waterproof ripstop nylon in a dark conceal green. Stuffs down very small, makes the bike easy to not see;()
    North Face Base Camp bag- "the bag that swallowed camp" is a seemingly bottomless bag of heavy vinyl covered polyester. Indestructible, cavernous, has straps that fit it readily to the cycleracks rear. Have added a piece of ABS plastic to the rack with break-away wire ties to support the ends of the bag. Comes with backpack straps for emergency hikes out.
    Olympia Stealth suit...in the ongoing search for reasonable & appropriate clothing, the concept behind this suit is great- all your protection with ventilation- in one garment. The one I have is almost there- but is still not vented enough.

    The wish list:
    Another thread details the current build project, the TW230 6 speed engine.
    A Lizrd Cooler for the new thumper
    Temp, maybe tach etc on the dash. Maybe Vapor.
    Riding boots I can also hike in! ATV boots have vibram soles but are too stiff to go very far.

    R.
    Last edited by Vagabond; 07-18-2013 at 05:57 PM.
    2004 T-dub, 15/50-68 dual sprocket, modded carb, kickstart, weldment footpegs, EK o-ring chain, Shinko 241 front tire, Duro PG rear, Ride-on seal/balance f&r, Pro Taper bars w/ PG grips, folding mirrors, XT350 tank, f&r Cycleracks, Saddlemens gel seat insert, VisionX LED driving lights, TCI pan/guards, 230cc six speed engine/trans, Jimbo Shield (smoke); ongoing monkeyshinin'

  2. #2
    Senior Member TW-Brian's Avatar
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    Wow, you've been busy!

    Sounds like a well thought out and equipped bike. I am intrigued by your dual sprocket combo of 50/68 rear sprockets. I am running 47/55 rear sprockets. What is your top speed with the 68 sprocket?

    Brian

  3. #3
    Senior Member DonBenito's Avatar
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    Nice TW, Vagabond! I like the flavor of your mods. Already enjoying your posts, welcome to the forum!
    2011 TW200 - Sold - after 9700 miles and 1,000,000 smiles. So long Tee Dub!
    2012 KLR650
    - Sold
    2013 Tiger Explorer XC
    2014 CB500X - RRP L3

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  5. #4
    Senior Member Vagabond's Avatar
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    @TW-Brian, it's been a very fun year, definitely a workhorse bike. Top speed 5th gear on the 15/68 combo is roughly 35mph. It'll get me home, but it only takes about 15 minutes to "shift the transfer case" and I often do it at the trailhead. Carry 1 large axle wrench (Crescent), chain pliers, flat screwdriver, plus the extra length of chain & clips. Need to weld a nut onto the snails so there's something to grab to turn them.

    @DonBenito...am very delinquent in throwing in my $.02. Lots of very interesting bikes on this forum, folks have really taught me a ton!!
    2004 T-dub, 15/50-68 dual sprocket, modded carb, kickstart, weldment footpegs, EK o-ring chain, Shinko 241 front tire, Duro PG rear, Ride-on seal/balance f&r, Pro Taper bars w/ PG grips, folding mirrors, XT350 tank, f&r Cycleracks, Saddlemens gel seat insert, VisionX LED driving lights, TCI pan/guards, 230cc six speed engine/trans, Jimbo Shield (smoke); ongoing monkeyshinin'

  6. #5
    Senior Member TW-Brian's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vagabond View Post
    Top speed 5th gear on the 15/68 combo is roughly 35mph. It'll get me home, but it only takes about 15 minutes to "shift the transfer case" and I often do it at the trailhead. Carry 1 large axle wrench (Crescent), chain pliers, flat screwdriver, plus the extra length of chain & clips. Need to weld a nut onto the snails so there's something to grab to turn them.
    That's kinda what I figured on the top speed, but your TW must be pretty much unstoppable. It takes me about twice that long to switch over, mainly because I don't know a good technique for compressing the side plates/o-rings and getting the clips back on. Got any tips? Are the chain pliers you mentioned one of those master link pliers I've seen advertised?

    That's a good idea you have to weld something onto the snails!

  7. #6
    Senior Member Vagabond's Avatar
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    Brian, yep, nearly unstoppable, absolutely amazing what it will go up & over. 'Course, now the tire is the weak link, breaks traction occasionally. Someday when I get rich I'll mount a Bighorn on my extra rear rim. Tried a set of master link pliers and was less impressed with them than a pair of 6" slip-joint (standard) pliers. To imitate the ML pliers, I ground one jaw of some standard pliers short by the thickness of the master link clip and beveled the long jaw so it fits into the chain, then ground a lengthwise notch in both jaws to center the pins of the chain. Expand the slip joint to pinch the side plates on -very easy. The only other trick is to lean the bike against something on it's right side instead of using the kick stand.
    Last edited by Vagabond; 07-19-2013 at 09:27 AM.
    2004 T-dub, 15/50-68 dual sprocket, modded carb, kickstart, weldment footpegs, EK o-ring chain, Shinko 241 front tire, Duro PG rear, Ride-on seal/balance f&r, Pro Taper bars w/ PG grips, folding mirrors, XT350 tank, f&r Cycleracks, Saddlemens gel seat insert, VisionX LED driving lights, TCI pan/guards, 230cc six speed engine/trans, Jimbo Shield (smoke); ongoing monkeyshinin'

  8. #7
    Senior Member admiral's Avatar
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    As a dual sprocket user myself, they come in pretty handy don't they. Because my sprockets are closer together tooth wise, I don't have to add and remove links when I change sprockets. I've got the process of changing out in the field down to about 5 to 10 minutes. Takes me longer to get the tools out and put away than it does to actually change. You've got a good adventure bike going on.
    Hidden Content A ride in the woods helps me relax and release tension. The fact I'm dragging a body should be entirely irrelevant?

  9. #8
    Senior Member lizrdbrth's Avatar
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    My solution to the first half of the snail adjuster issue:

    https://tw200forum.com/forum/performa...er-thingy.html


    The other half and the part I've yet to do is to bend the "ears" (the pointy part) of each snail out to about a 15 degree angle to where they stand proud of the side of the swingarm. That will give you something to hang onto to hold them stationary for tightening, as well. Can't 'member what bike I saw those on but seemed a good idea.



    Last edited by lizrdbrth; 07-19-2013 at 11:14 AM.
    I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you.

    Powdercoated '87 frame, extended swingarm, YZ fork legs, ATV tire, 14/55, XT350 tank, spliced quick-release seat, disc brake conversion, beeg headlight, beeger rack, Lizrdcooler, Lizrdventz and bunch of other stuff all covered in invisible ink.

    Hidden Content

    Hidden Content

  10. #9
    Senior Member Vagabond's Avatar
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    @admiral - dual sprockys maximize the TW. I can imagine a 'dub with the "low range" only, and a monster crawler tire. But a road-only tw misses the best of the bike!! OK, maybe I exaggerate!!

    @lizrdbrth - Great idea, hadn't thought of that one. Since I'm carrying the universal 5mm allen wrench, may drill a hole and braze the head of an allen bolt into each snail. Have also thought of simply grinding the pointy end square so I kin grab it with pliers. Bending it out would help too.

    R.
    2004 T-dub, 15/50-68 dual sprocket, modded carb, kickstart, weldment footpegs, EK o-ring chain, Shinko 241 front tire, Duro PG rear, Ride-on seal/balance f&r, Pro Taper bars w/ PG grips, folding mirrors, XT350 tank, f&r Cycleracks, Saddlemens gel seat insert, VisionX LED driving lights, TCI pan/guards, 230cc six speed engine/trans, Jimbo Shield (smoke); ongoing monkeyshinin'

  11. #10
    Senior Member TW-Brian's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vagabond View Post
    To imitate the ML pliers, I ground one jaw of some standard pliers short by the thickness of the master link clip and beveled the long jaw so it fits into the chain, then ground a lengthwise notch in both jaws to center the pins of the chain.
    I think I understand what you mean, but a picture would help confirm what I am imagining.

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