How To Install a Pumper Carb on Your TW
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Thread: How To Install a Pumper Carb on Your TW

  1. #1
    Senior Member Cornelis's Avatar
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    Cool How To Install a Pumper Carb on Your TW

    This is for the guys who wants a more crisper lively output from the TW, for me it made a HUGE difference in performance when it comes to acceleration and low end grunt, I'll say its about a 20% improvement in performance for me.

    I did a lot of research with all the available options when I decided that it is time replace my carburettor and I decided to try out the Keihin carb that comes out standard on all Honda and Chinese bikes, also included is a built-in acceleration pump which gives the bike extra power when accelerating

    The fact that this project will only cost you around $ US 70 makes this a win-win situation

    The experiment was a huge success so this is the write-up for installation. Go to https://tw200forum.com/forum/perform...tor-t-dub.html for the original post.

    You need to have patience for this project, this is a bit tricky and I covered all of the things that you need to do for this modification, if you have any questions feel free to pm me

    First I'm going to run through the things that you need to buy for this project

    Go to aliexpress.com and type "Keihin pz30 Carburetor + Twister + Cable" into the search box or Click Here

    Choose a package in the result that has the carburetor, throttle cable and twist grip included, go ahead and order it



    then you have to order the intake manifold

    type the words "Carburetor Rubber Adapter Keihin pz30" and the order it

    this is the right one that you must order





    THIS IS THE WRONG MANIFOLD, DO NOT ORDER THIS ONE IT IS NOT GOING TO WORK



    then you have to order the starter/ kill switch, type the words "Off-road motorcycle electric starter"



    then you're going to have to wait anything between 2 weeks and 2 months for the spares to arrive, depending on whether you used the courier option or the send via postal service option

    INSTALLATION PROCEDURE

    Remove the seat and the fuel tank

    Remove the old carb and the old throttle twister with the old cable

    this is where the fun begins . . . . . .

    you're going to have to trim down the two rubber boots and then glue them to each other

    in the end, the two of them attached to each other must be about 1 1/2 inches (38 millimeters) long

    be careful when sawing the old manifold because a replacement one will set you back $ 50



    after sawing the rubber boots take them one at a time, put them on a piece of sand paper and sand them until the surfaces are even



    this is how the two rubber boots look like afterwards



    now we are going over to the other rubber boot, you're going to have to cut away the REAR boot so that when you put the carb against the rear boot when it is in position on the air box there will be a 1 1/2 inch gap in the FRONT between the carb and the engine so that you can fit the other two rubber boots also



    now you're going to have to take the carb and hang it from the frame of the bike , I did it with isolation tape



    the next step is to take duct tape and a tie-down, wrap the duct tape carefully around the carb inlet and boot outlet so that you have an airtight seal, this is the most straightforward and practical solution for me





    buy a plumbing clamp and cut an aluminum sheet (I'm sure you can use an old tin can also) and get it ready to put it around the rubber boots



    get yourself a tube of Loctite SI 5699 or something similar that is capable of sealing AND to withstand high heat temperature



    apply the sealant all around the rubber boots on both sides and then also on the inside of the aluminum sheet





    put the clamp wit the aluminum sheet on the inside around the rubber boots and tighten the clamp until there is a seal, not too tightly otherwise you're going to separate the rubber boots from each other

    wait for at least 5 hours or preferably overenight for the silicone to harden properly so that there is an airtight seal and you will have a solid, reliable boot!



    all that is left to do is to route the throttle cable and to attach the new throttle twister to the handle bar and you're ready to go

    the finished product







    Last edited by Cornelis; 12-12-2018 at 08:57 AM. Reason: spelling mistake
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    Super Moderator littletommy's Avatar
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    Sweet, too bad I don't have a TW to try it on...

    Nice job brother Corn!!
    Cornelis, Ken, Howsbentley and 2 others like this.
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    Senior Member buellzebub's Avatar
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    Nice write up. Did you install on a stock 200 engine? Just that I noticed the carb shown is for a TTR250. Thanks
    Cornelis, Ken, littletommy and 2 others like this.

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    Senior Member Cornelis's Avatar
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    Thank you brother Tom and buellzebub

    buellzebub - yes I have a stock 200 engine and the carb is suitable for any 4 stroke engine between 200 - 250 cc, just go to aliexpress.com if you want to find out more about the carb, type Keihin PZ30 in the search box
    Last edited by Cornelis; 09-25-2017 at 12:35 PM.
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  6. #5
    Ken
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    Senior Member Ken's Avatar
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    Great job and a great write up. How is the top speed now? How is your butt dyno performance figures?

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    Senior Member jbfla's Avatar
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    Yes, excellent job, Cornelis.

    Not exactly Plug-n-Play, but well done.

    jb
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    Senior Member Fred's Avatar
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    Might a rubber no-hub, or hubbed rubber coupler join the manifolds?
    American plumbing suppliers have these for joining a variety of pipe diameters. They are quite strong and secure.
    What is the approximate outer diameters of the two manifold sections to be joined?

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  9. #8
    Senior Member Howsbentley's Avatar
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    Nice write up, Fred.
    #GYG


    '13 TW200

    A.T.
    Cornelis and jtomelliott49 like this.

  10. #9
    Senior Member Cornelis's Avatar
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    Yes Fred, I'm sure it can work, just as long as it is a high quality rubber that can withstand very high heat, especially when you go trail riding on a hot summers day, temps go all the way into the red.

    The Loctite gasket maker silicone is a superior product which I tried and tested on my bike during the last couple of months and believe me, that manifold is as solid as you can get, I don't have to worry about air leaks at all no matter how high the temps go

    Is is also nearly impossible to align the two manifolds perfectly with each other, no matter how hard I tried, there is always a small angle between them, that's why I prefer to use silicone sealant also
    Last edited by Cornelis; 09-26-2017 at 11:19 AM.
    1990 Yamaha TW200Hidden Content _____________ Come to Me, all you who are weary and burdened, and I will give you rest. - Matthew 11:28
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  11. #10
    Senior Member Cornelis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ken View Post
    Great job and a great write up. How is the top speed now? How is your butt dyno performance figures?
    The butt dyno performance figures are simply out of this world bro, as soon as I have the money I want to put the bike on a real dyno to have a look at the graph

    I want to go for the first high speed test run today and will report back afterwards
    elime, littletommy, Purple and 4 others like this.
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