I use this tool:
But that rear tire is pretty tough!
Here is a great tire changing guide:
If so what tools do you use? I can't even break the bead!
Fun, ain't it?
I've had a fair amount of luck using a giant C-clamp. If I can't actually break the bead with it I can at least cause a gap large enough to get a tire tool into and eventually manhandle it enough to get some daylight.
After that there's the jack trick, the "run over it with the truck" trick, the Gizmow wedge trick....
If rust under the bead is the culprit once you get it off, clean it up and sand the inside of the bead surface with some 400 grit then put some dielectric or silicone grease on it. Anti-sieze is messy, but it works and as far as I know it won't harm rubber. I put my Bighorn on with it in hopes I'll have some chance of getting it off the rim some day.
Tried and true stuff like talcum powder, tire lube and dish soap tend to vaporize over time and that's desirable on most rims where using grease can become a safety issue, but as you can see a TW tire isn't in grave danger of slipping on the rim even if ridden flat.
I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you.
Powdercoated '87 frame, extended swingarm, YZ fork legs, ATV tire, 14/55, XT350 tank, spliced quick-release seat, disc brake conversion, beeg headlight, beeger rack, Lizrdcooler, Lizrdventz and bunch of other stuff all covered in invisible ink.
Yep! Just used two 10" tire levers and some good balance. I stood on the tire lever and other side of the tire.
Sure did, but I happen to have a 20 ton hydraulic press for building AKs that comes in right handy at tire change time. Notwithstanding this, I had a bear of a time getting the rear tire to break the bead as well as the press point kept slipping away from the rim. Ended up using a 6" piece of bar stock under the ram head to spread the load laterally and she finally gave up the ghost.
2006 TW200, LED tail & turn signals, Clarke XT350 tank, hybrid YZ80 forks, CycleRacks rear rack, Ricochet bash plate, TTR225 header, eBay pegs, MSR high ATV bars, Tusk bar risers, Tusk handguards & deflectors, Tusk KX250 stainless brake line, XT225 speedo cable, 14/47 sprockets, Mule-pin seat latches, 130 main, 0.035" shimmed needle, TW34/M6006 meats.
It's designed for car and truck tires, but has worked for me on motorcycle tires.
2018 Triumph Street Twin..............2016 CB500F
2014 XT250 ..................................2008 H-D Softail Deluxe
2008 SV 650..................................2007 DR 650..
I live near a motorcycle dealer in Ventura, CalCoast Motosports, they will match internet prices and if I take them the wheel they will mount it for free. You don't do your car tires why do the bike?
Used the jack on my truck between the wheel and the bumper. That will break anything.
All you really need is leverage.
If you don't have the tools or a jack/truck combo like PJungnitsch suggested you can create your own with a couple of 2x4s.
I don't live near your dealer, I live near mine. They don't price match but they do charge an arm and a leg to mount/change, tires/tubes. I have had two flats and got the shaft each time paying local shops to swap the tube. Why waste 25 bucks every time you need or want to change a tire or tube? I change the tires on my bicycles myself why not do the TWs? I also mash my own cars and change my own oil.