Chain tension questions
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Thread: Chain tension questions

  1. #1
    Senior Member RDW's Avatar
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    Nov 2013

    Chain tension questions

    I'm just getting ready to change from the stock chain to a X-ring chain (428 - 122 links) and I want to be sure I'm clear of the chain slack tolerance. The TW owners manual gives 35-60mm. The instructions on the chain box states: "Standard chain slack" to be 20-25mm. I've been following the TW owners manual which just looks excessive. I'm not sure that I'm measuring it correctly (even though there is a diagram in the book). If I understand it right it is a center-to-center measurement and you push the chain all way up and then all the down and measure that distance (halfway between the two sprockets) Is this correct? And if it is, is the 20-25mm dimension (given on the new chain box) measured using a different method or is there some other reason for such a big difference in the specifications?

    Thanks and any other advice anyone would like to offer is always welcome.

    Enclosed is a picture of the existing chain with current factory suggested slack.20140427_104933.jpg


  2. #2
    rbm is offline
    Senior Member rbm's Avatar
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    Jan 2011
    Go with the specs listed in the manual as they are specific to the TW.

  3. #3
    Senior Member frog13's Avatar
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    Jun 2011
    SW, Ohio
    TW manual definetly . Who knows what the new chain manufacturer is talkin about ?. The TW manual slack recommendations do look a bit over kill , but "they" designed the bike . I will usually run between 1.5"---too just under 2" ,when it get's close too 2" ,is when I adjust.
    Last edited by frog13; 04-27-2014 at 08:34 PM.
    maddawgj likes this.

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  5. #4
    Senior Member maddawgj's Avatar
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    May 2012
    the Coastal Empire (i.e. islands outside Savannah)
    Being a dual sport bike designed to see off road use the suspension travel that you will see from the swing arm is a lot more than on say a crotch rocket and as such it needs more slack in the chain to be able to move through its range of motion with out the chain stopping it.

    FYI: loser is always better than tighter on chains. When it's too lose it will fall off and you know to tighten it a bit. When it's too tight it will limit the suspension and potentially damage the sprockets and power plant. I run the dub with about one inch of slack in the middle and haven't ever had any issues with it.
    Last edited by maddawgj; 04-27-2014 at 04:30 PM.
    Forever grateful for all your help brother
    2005 TW wrecked in ‘14 and rebuilt in ‘17. ‘06 donor parts and new OEM, Carb jetted & shimmed, ‘04 XT225 gas tank, UNI air filter, Shinko 241 front, modded Krator pegs, IMS folding shifter, JT 14/47 sprockets, huge car horn, tool tube, DR8EIX plug, short rear signals, Cycleracks rear, All Balls steering bearings, Protaper ATV High bars, OEM Kickstarter with more to come...

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