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Key frozen in lock.

3K views 13 replies 9 participants last post by  TK200 
#1 ·
I rode for groceries when the temperature was 11*F. When I arrived at the grocery the key would turn the ignition on and off, but it wouldn't come out of the lock. A trip to O'Rielly's netted a little aerosal bottle of lock deicer. The bottle works by pushing its spout into the lock slot, or in this case, where the key entered the lock slot. 4 or 5 little squirts had the key working properly, and no problem since.
 
#2 ·
I think the ultimate solution is NOT to ride in the 11' temperatures...you are brave.
 
#3 ·
Had the same situation two weeks ago with mine but it was the clutch cable (seven below) one I arrived home and stuck it back in the heated garage problem solved. Had friend put Heet in his quad to get it started and it destroyed all the gaskets, this was two years ago and his grizzly has not moved since.
 
#4 ·
Seven and eleven degrees????? Man, you guys are tough!!!! Around here when the temps get to 60 the number of motorcycles are very few. Below 50 and the only guys out there are Igofar and one guy I met that moved here from Alaska.
 
#10 ·
Seven and eleven degrees????? Man, you guys are tough!!!! Around here when the temps get to 60 the number of motorcycles are very few. Below 50 and the only guy out there is Igofar or one guy I met that moved here from Alaska.


Yeah you are a trooper! If I have to work early and its in the low 60's I think I'm gonna freeze to death. Not much for inclement weather around here the only place that sees much cold is the observatories on Mauna Kea and at 11'000ft I don't really think I'll take the TW up anytime soon.




 
#5 ·
I had my own icy ignition switch problem. It was 15-20 degrees early last week for a few days. Key went in, wouldn't turn. I pushed the bike around to the porch where I could plug in the heat gun and gave it a blast. After a short time on the road, of course, it froze again so I just used the kill switch and left the key on. Got home, heated it up to get the key out, pushed it back around the house. The moisture is still in there but it never stays that cold for long around here so I doubt it'll be a problem. A shot of WaterDisplacement #40 will go in there next time I start it up.
 
#11 ·
This comes up as a subject of discussion regularly where I live (anc ak) , particularly given the business i am in (school district locksmith). In general, the only thing WD40 has going for it is it is inexpensive, and more or less edible. It has low lubricity and requires frequent re-application. Graphite is a very good lock lubricant, required on our BEST removeable core cylinders. However, graphite does not displace moisture, and mixes poorly with the aerosol lubes the un-informed sometimes put into locks requireing graphite only. I like Triflo or LPS 1 for most conventional locks.



Ether starting fluids are my all time favorite cleaner and degreaser (not used around the schools) with alcohol as a more likely choice. You have to relubricate the lock after using any deicer. Going through the freeze thaw cycle causes most lock problems, you have less trouble @ (-) 40F than slightly above and below freezing. I lube my personal vehicle locks about every two weeks (triflo) during the beginning and end of winter. Of course our seasons are described as "almost winter", "winter", "not quite winter", "road building season".



I have ridden my TW to work down to (-)12F usually fires on the second kick.
 
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