Stator and Pulser coil problem
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  1. #1
    Junior Member Phatcow's Avatar
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    Stator and Pulser coil problem

    Hey All,

    So I was riding my stock 2006 TW200, and the other night decided to take the highway home since it was late, I got on it pretty hard for a while and suddenly it lost power. The engine was extremely hot when I pulled off the road. I let the bike cool for about 20 minutes then was able to start it up and ride it home (about 3-4 more miles) then it died again maybe 100 feet from my house.
    I think I may have fried the ignition, I replaced the spark plug this morning, and again, once the bike gets hot, it just stops.
    So from some troubleshooting and tons of googling, its either the Stator or Pulser Coil; the CDI box is not generally effected by heat since its mounted far from the engine.

    What I did, I checked resistance of all 3 wires from the stator, I was getting roughly 6-9 ohms, but all the same resistance. I checked each wire across ground and there was nothing, so I checked the red and white wires for my pulser, i got a reading of about 885 (ohms i believe.. i have a new auto meter and didn't pay attention to the units) anyway. I'm not sure if these numbers seem reasonable since I have no charts or tables to compare it too.. Do you guys think its one of these electrical components? or am I just way off the mark here?

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    Senior Member slowmod's Avatar
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    hey

    the specs for 2001+ are 656-984 ohms for the pulsar (red to white, disconnected from cdi) , so you're probably good there.
    the cdi stator for the 2001+ are around 624-936 ohms (green to brown, again, disconnected).

    (i don't have the specs for the cdi source coil/stator. edit: disregard).

    you sure you measuring the cdi power not the 12v stator?

    on the older tw's the cdi power is ~430 ohms across, and the 12v coils are ~.5 ohms to ground

    pay attention to your meter readout, the decimal place, the units (ohms, k-ohms, etc).

    if you can verfy spark or not when it dies that will help, as it could be a carb/fuel supply/vac lock issue as well.

    electrical is often intermittant so if you can immediately meter when it dies that will help.
    cooling spray from electronics store can help pinpoint.

    the cdi is far from engine but it is downstream from it, and under your leg, above the muffler pipe, and generates it's own heat... if it cacks out , and you can immediatly spray it with cooling stuff....

    i would also suspect the spark coil because that definatly gets hot. cheaper also.

    there are manuals on this site, just search. "01 and newer supplement", also somebody posts custom coloured diagrams here as well.

    try a third plug; and also swap pugs when it dies.

    you are "lucky" in that your bike will start, so you can wiggle wires while running, heat components up with a hair dryer, etc.

    good luck, have fun...

    -
    Last edited by slowmod; 07-11-2014 at 12:41 PM.

  3. #3
    Junior Member Phatcow's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by slowmod View Post
    hey

    the specs for 2001+ are 656-984 ohms for the pulsar (red to white, disconnected from cdi) , so you're probably good there.
    the cdi stator for the 2001+ are around 624-936 ohms (green to brown, again, disconnected).

    i don't have the specs for the cdi source coil/stator. you sure you measuring the cdi power not the 12v stator?

    on the older tw's the cdi power is ~430 ohms across, and the 12v coils are ~.5 ohms to ground

    pay attention to your meter readout, the decimal place, the units (ohms, k-ohms, etc).

    if you can verfy spark or not when it dies that will help, as it could be a carb/fuel supply/vac lock issue as well.

    electrical is often intermittant so if you can immediately meter when it dies that will help.
    cooling spray from electronics store can help pinpoint.

    the cdi is far from engine but it is downstream from it, and under your leg, above the muffler pipe, and generates it's own heat... if it cacks out , and you can immediatly spray it with cooling stuff....

    i would also suspect the spark coil because that definatly gets hot. cheaper also.

    there are manuals on this site, just search. "01 and newer supplement", also somebody posts custom coloured diagrams here as well.

    try a third plug; and also swap pugs when it dies.

    you are "lucky" in that your bike will start, so you can wiggle wires while running, heat components up with a hair dryer, etc.

    good luck, have fun...

    -

    Ah I just got it working, it turns out it was the Pulser. It has now been replaced and the bike is running just fine. I really appreciate you taking your time to give me some specs. I'm saving them in case something ever happens again. Keeping it from over heating is now another issue, I'm going to richen the mixture a bit because it's definitely still lean, I'll open up the exhaust but I'm not sure what else I can do besides an expensive oil cooler to keep it from burning up an ignition again..

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  5. #4
    Senior Member slowmod's Avatar
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    the pulser, eh? and showing good, ohms-wise. interesting. glad you're mobile again.

    -
    perhaps of further interest;

    one can see the pulsar signal with any old led light hooked to the pulser output (output is ~5vac peak).

    on my bike, it fires near 0tdc and ~50deg btdc, depending on hookup polarity. (catching one side of the ac pulse).
    which doesn't quite make sense; the opposing spikes should be waaay closer together i would think.

    very clean narrow spikes, no smear.

    tw_pu_timing1_web.jpg
    15 sec exposure, ~8 pulses per sec (hz) at 500rpm cranking.

    tw_pu_timing_+g_web.jpg
    10 sec exposure

    tw_pu_timing_+w_web.jpg

    i'm going to hack an oscilliscope with my pc audio program and try to have a look at the actual pulsar waveform,
    in the months-long quest to find a cheaper cdi that works and get my damn bike back on the road!

    -

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