Electrical mystery for '87
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  1. #1
    Junior Member lagarto's Avatar
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    Please give an opinion as to where to start with this-I recently bought an '87 TW200 with 1100 actual miles, immaculate garage-stored ladie's bike, runs/looks like new--except--the seller told me that there was a starter problem. Looked to me like a bad battery, lights dim, horn barely worked, turn signals stayed on...Kick started fine, then power went up, but not quite fully but significantly more. Last night I quickly checked the battery-to my surprise, it was fully charged 100%!. Now I'm mystified, unless they stuck a 6 volt battery in it--which is possible, I haven't checked that yet--I'm not sure where to start otherwise--any suggestions?

  2. #2
    Senior Member dhoenisch's Avatar
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    Could be just a cheapo battery. I had a scooter for about a year, but it had a cheapo battery that could barely hold a charge, and never could start it using the starter button, so had to kick start it every time. Of course, lights would brighten up and all, though when I would use the signal or hit the brakes, the headlight would go dim. Kept a tender on it, and would charge to 100%, but still couldn't get the juice out of it that I needed. Replaced it with a new battery, and all was well.



    Not sure if that's your issue, but might be a good place to start.



    Dan
    2009 Yamaha TW200

    1996 Yamaha Virago 1100

  3. #3
    Senior Member rm_hm's Avatar
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    Load testing a bike battery



    1. Access the motorcycle's battery, by unbolting the seat with a socket wrench.
    2. Leave the ignition switch in the "Off" position and set your multimeter to read a DC (Direct Current) voltage scale, using the setting dial on the voltmeter's face.
    3. Connect the voltmeter's red probe to the battery's positive terminal and black probe on the negative terminal. Take note of the battery's static voltage indicated on the voltmeter. Charge the battery with an automatic battery charger if the voltage is below 12.1 volts DC.
    4. Keep the voltmeter's probes in place on the battery's terminals. Turn the ignition switch to the "On" position and take note of the battery's voltage. Replace the battery if the voltage is less than 10 volts DC while under a load.




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  5. #4
    Banned qwerty's Avatar
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    How old is the battery? How long did it sit without being charged?



    An old battery or a new one that has been sitting for a few months could both be ruined. Pull the battery and hook up jumper cables from your car to the bike's battery cables. All better? Replace the battery motorcycle battery with a new one.



    I've seen brand new batteries installed and allowed to sit for 6 weeks without charging or being run ruined from sulfation.





    Don't hook up jumper cables from a car to a motorcycle battery. Exploding batteries are no fun.




  6. #5
    Senior Member brownie2's Avatar
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    Why not Qwerty? 12v is 12v, right?

  7. #6
    Senior Member rm_hm's Avatar
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  8. #7
    Senior Member srs713's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by brownie2 View Post
    Why not Qwerty? 12v is 12v, right?


    Yeah, but it's the Amps that will get you.



    P = I x E. Watts equal Volts times Amps.



    The charging system of a car can overpower some smaller or defective motorcycle batteries, causing them to boil & out-gas, creating an explosion hazard.



    Now if you leave the car off, or just take the battery out & set it beside the bike then yeah, you can jump safely.



    I have a Black & Decker Jump Start that works great.
    Stephen S.

    '07 TW200:

    15/50 sprockets, O-ring chain, D2Moto foot pegs

    tweaked carb (127.5 jet, 0.019 needle shim, idle screw @2.25),

    Rubbermaid "Action Packer" on homemade brackets

  9. #8
    Banned qwerty's Avatar
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    ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

    What he said.




  10. #9
    Junior Member lagarto's Avatar
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    In my haste and ignorance(and not having my glasses at the time), I ASSUMED that since the previous owner paid an enormous fee to have his dealer put in a battery, that the dealer would actually check the connections--the battery was put in a week before i bought it, he gave me the receipt-but low and behold, on closer inspection, the negative connection was extremely corroded, they didn't bother to clean it off! A couple swipes of sandpaper, and all is well! I should have known better, although i've never seen a bad connection produce a consistent amount of lesser power before..

  11. #10
    Member Fourcycle's Avatar
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    The reason you don' t want to charge from an automotive charging system is because the TW, and most other motorcycles, use shunt regulation. The shunt regulator can handle the current from the TW's charging system but not the much higher charging current from a typical automotive system. Shunt regulation doesn't start until about 14.5 volts so you are probably okay below that voltage. But above that voltage the TW's regulator starts trying to disipate the extra power and overheating or just blowing the junction in the regulation transistor.



    Limiting the charging current isn't a bad idea but a good TW battery can handle quite a bit. Boiling is usually the result of over-voltage not over-current.
    If your only tool is a hammer

    Everything looks like a nail

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