So this happens to me a lot, it seems. I was taking the gas tank off a few weeks back with a socket wrench when the head of the bolt just snapped clean off! I've tried making a screwhead out of what's in that little shaft, lube, extreme head. No dice.
Now I can live with that one for now. The tank stays on just fine without it.
But just now I was trying to get the front sprocket cover off and started stripping heads.
I'm so *%*#$%(#@#$ tired of this. I've never once had a screw extractor do its job. I've had them break often, though.
How about those helicoil things? Would they be useful?
Tom - TW200 2002, Kawasaki VN 500 2006
Central New Mexico
The only thing that has ever worked for me is drilling the broken screw with reverse rotation, or "left hand" drills. The key is to drill a pilot hole as close as possible to the center because sometimes you need to remove a lot of material before the screw will come loose. It feels great when it reaches the point when the drill grabs the screw and it backs right out.
Oh and good penetrating oil. I like Kroil.
'10 Truimph Bonneville Std.
my gas tank bolt snapped in half about 6 months ago. i was able to get the nub out with a left handed drill bit.
i replaced the bolt with a cap screw from lowes. good luck. i freaked out when it happened, but mine came out very easily. it was not very tight at all when it broke.
Certainly is a frustrating situation and one I suspect, most of us have had to deal with.
You need to be certain you turn in the correct direction. Simple, you say; my reply is, not so. Many of us get a bit befuddled when looking at things backwards or upside down. Take a moment and be "clear", counter clockwise is un-tightening and clockwise is tightening. "righty tighty, lefty loosey" as was presented by Tom.
The smaller the nut or bolt, likely the effort applied to tightening is much reduced. This bolt can be tighten with more effort than this bolt. I do not want to make a fool of anyone, but since I had problems with this many years ago, I thought this may help. Tobacco had a good suggestion as well; make sure you are using a 'good' and the correct size of socket. As for the case, drill off the bolt head, undo the other bolts (properly), remove the case cover and grab the problem bolt (stub) with a vicegrip and remove. If it were me, I would re-tap the hole the next size (metric or SAE) then paint that bolt RED to remind me I need a different socket. Only MY opinions, good luck, I have done it more than once......... Gerry
Take care my Friend.........
I'm a big fan of anti-seize. When I first removed my spark arrester I replaces the phillips head bolt with an allen and used some anti-seize on the bolt and the contact area of the spark arrester. I usually dab a SMALL amount on any bolt that I know that I'm going to remove in the future during a normal service: Oil filter covers, valve covers, seat bolts, tank bolts. I would never used it on anything that needs locktite or any engine bolts not normally removed occasionally.
1998 HD FLHTC
i've also noticed the screw heads on this bike are butter soft. i now use a small set of vice grips to break all screws that i can, then i replace them with cap screws.
edit: i meant viSe grips. someday i'll stop doing that
Dealership stripped all of my screws out for me. Had to have the brother use his cut off wheel to slot the heads to get them out. Luckily none of the heads broke off.