Something funky about your jet sizes. 125 is the 49-state jet, 128 is the California jet. The rest of the world gets the 132 jet. There is also a 130 jet, but not used on any TW. The 126 jet is a new one on me.
Make one change at a time with your carb. First do the main. Test. Then redo the main if it isn't right. Test. Repeat until the main is right. When the main is right, start messing with the needle. Test. Mess with the needle. Test. Repeat until the needle is right. Then start with the pilot screw.
Reason being is the main affects the midrange much more than the needle affects WOT. If you set the needle, then mess with the main, you'll likely mess up the needle. If you set the main, then mess with the needle, you are not very likely to mess up the main. Same relationship between the needle and pilot screw--the needle has much more effect on idle than the pilot screw has on midrange.
Increase main jet size one step at a time. Power will improve with each step. When you reach the jet that causes a loss of power, back up to the next smaller. Check to see whether it or the next smaller yet provides the most power. If two jets perform the same, stick with the smaller jet if the whether is hotter than usual, or the bigger jet if the weather is cooler than usual.
Repeat with the needle--adjust by steps and test at each step. When there is a loss of performance, back off. If using washers, sometimes they are two thick. Washers can be thinned by dragging them across emery paper. Usually, such small washers are stamped, and on side has a little flange around the edge of one flat, which is easy to knock off. you can also thin washers on the anvil part of a vice with a hammer held carefully so the hammer face strikes parallel to the anvil.
Repeat with the pilot screw--gradually adjust until there is a loss of performance, then back off a bit.
I suggest that you replace the bowl and suction piston assembly cover screws with stainless allen heads so the low quality OEM screws don't strip/wear to the point of useless.