2010 Carb question
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  1. #1
    Senior Member RockyTFS's Avatar
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    I just bought a 2010 T-dub and have been looking thru all the threads about carb tuning. I also discussed this with the

    tech at my dealer. I am somewhat confused by many of the threads on carbs because I can't determine which carb the poster

    is refering to.



    So, my question is whether or not a 2010 TK carb's needle has more than one position for the circlip, and if it does, why can't you just change position of the circlip instead of adding shim washers?



    As an aside, why the hell does Yamahammer call the pilot jet or pilot screw that instead of an idle jet or idle screw?

    Oh Lord, won't you give me an English Bike! Must be a mid-life crisis....I so want a Norton Commando!



    Rocky



    PS, Querty if you read this my neighbor told me why to change the oil at 5 hours! (not 5 miles) Get that factory machining crap out of there ASAP! Not to mention looking for some really big surprise! I once took a chunk of metal the size of a pencil eraser out of a Lycoming's oil screen ....I never did find out where it came from, and the damn engine ran for 15 years with no problems!!!
    Rocky
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    2014 BMW R1200GS LC

  2. #2
    Senior Member jbfla's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rocky View Post
    ...So, my question is whether or not a 2010 TK carb's needle has more than one position ...


    There is only one position for the circlip.




    jb
    2018 Triumph Street Twin..............2016 CB500F
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  3. #3
    Senior Member RockyTFS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jbfla View Post


    There is only one position for the circlip.




    jb


    This could have been determined if only I had time before my trip to dis-assemble the carb, but I don't, so thanks a lot! I don't suppose you might know the exact dimensions of a suitable washer to shim with so I can take one with me and use if it I need it a sea level? The dealer was no help, you can't buy just washers.



    Thx



    Rocky
    Rocky
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    2014 BMW R1200GS LC

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  5. #4
    Banned qwerty's Avatar
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    Tiny washers, maybe 1/8-inch or 3mm. Take the needle to a hobby shop, about the only place to get washers that size.




  6. #5
    Senior Member RockyTFS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by qwerty View Post
    Tiny washers, maybe 1/8-inch or 3mm. Take the needle to a hobby shop, about the only place to get washers that size.


    Hi Querty,



    Just been reading some of your old posts about jet size...If I have this right, the stock jet is 125, which is why my new bike runs perfect at 5800 ft. However, I'm going to Death Valley for a couple of weeks and will be breaking it in there between 0 and 4000 ft, mostly on dirt. From what you said, I probably ought to get a 130 to take with, since your older posts indicated that this was the easiest and quickest way to get in the ballpark for mixture, especially in the field, where I really would rather not be fooling with the needle jet washers.



    Yes or no? Or can I break this bike in with the stock jet there and quit worrying until summer when I can do testing and tweaking at home to get it just right? (up to 10,000 here)



    Rocky
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    2014 BMW R1200GS LC

  7. #6
    Banned qwerty's Avatar
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    You can do whatever you want. Unless it is really hot, the 125 or 126 (they come with a 126 in '11), will do no harm. The bike may be hard to start, take forever to war up, surge at midrange cruise, have crappy off-idle throttle response, and knock when lugged, but if you can live with all that, the stock jetting is fine.




  8. #7
    Banned qwerty's Avatar
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    Hmmm?

    2010 parts list SKU:

    5FY-14343-63-00 JET, MAIN (#126)

    2003 parts list SKU:

    288-14343-63-00 JET, MAIN (#125)

    288-14343-64-00 JET, MAIN (#128)



    The change seems to have begun with the 2009 models.




  9. #8
    Senior Member RockyTFS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by qwerty View Post
    You can do whatever you want. Unless it is really hot, the 125 or 126 (they come with a 126 in '11), will do no harm. The bike may be hard to start, take forever to war up, surge at midrange cruise, have crappy off-idle throttle response, and knock when lugged, but if you can live with all that, the stock jetting is fine.




    Well, maybe I can live with that for a week or two...as long as I won't burn it up!!! I only got three more business days before leaving. Doubt if that's enough to get a 130 from Stadium, but maybe I can get them to send it to my step brother in Bishop, where I'll be for a day or two...worth a try.



    Thanks for the help.
    Rocky
    2018 TW200
    2014 BMW R1200GS LC

  10. #9
    Senior Member RockyTFS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by qwerty View Post
    Hmmm?

    2010 parts list SKU:

    5FY-14343-63-00 JET, MAIN (#126)

    2003 parts list SKU:

    288-14343-63-00 JET, MAIN (#125)

    288-14343-64-00 JET, MAIN (#128)



    The change seems to have begun with the 2009 models.




    Yeah, I noticed the same thing in my searches at stadium and boats.net, although often a 2010 T-dub is not specifically listed. I wonder what the difference between the 288 and the 5FY series is. At any rate, Stadium won't ship a jet until March 16th at the earliest; I'll be too far out in the boonies by then to get it. Plus they want $15.75 shipping on a $3.48 part! Genuine Yamaha parts don't seem so bad at that. By the time I ride near sea level again a year or two from now I ought to have got all this dialed and all the parts I need to make these changes while out on a trip. Thx again for the info.
    Rocky
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    2014 BMW R1200GS LC

  11. #10
    Banned qwerty's Avatar
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    Whatever. Failing to properly prepare one's motorcycle for riding in the wilderness is one of the main reasons there are some people with whom I will not ride. Take your hiking boots.




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