oil leak update
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Thread: oil leak update

  1. #1
    Senior Member jeffrolives's Avatar
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    oil leak update

    On the new to me, brought home Thursday, 1996 TW200, I thought I had blown base gasket as oil was coming from right at the rear of the cylinder base on the right side.

    Upon closer inspection after another cleaning, I found that I could actually see oil being thrown up onto the exhaust, and therefor, pretty much everywhere else after it got turned into an oily ?steam?

    I found that it was coming from the top of the right side cover; clutch cover.

    Off to the friendly Yammie shop on Monday, I was surprised to find that they had everything on my list, in stock!

    Ran home after work and dropped oil. I was surprised at how easily the cover's screws (phillips) came out. No problems. In fact, I was even more surprised that I didn't have any more leaks as most of the screws down at the back by kicker were not even tight. Glad they did not shake out. But no leaks from that area.

    Here is what I found.



    Sombrero on top of oil level sight glass for reference. Barely any gasket material between the two mating surfaces at that point.

    Replaced with new (btw-great tip on putting screws into cardboard pattern), new oil and filter, and cleaned screen. Old filter was a metal type of screen. I have read it can be cleaned. I replaced with new paper style element. And new sparkler.

    Now onto the leaking carb issue. I believe the needle is hanging up and allowing over flow while sitting over night. Previous owner said bike sat for about year-year and a half. When getting it going, he just drained bowl and tank and put new gas in, and it started. He did NO work on it himself other than this.

    Any tips or things to watch for? I have read a lot of different posts about the carburetors, but am still in the dark about when they changed them and how to get to the mix screw on my year. Is it under bowl? I cannot see any plug.

    Besides the overflow issue, the main issue (as of recently; did not do this first) is that you can start it and it will sit there and idle. Sometimes it is different. Sometimes after just a short time. Other times, after warm and responsive, it will just sit there and idle along, then, about 30 seconds or so, it just dies. Like ignition is cut. It will start right back up and idle, but after a bit, die.

    I first noticed this putting around. It hits a bit of a dead spot where it dies for a split second. While riding, it does not die, but sitting idling, sometimes it dies, and others just stumbles and recovers.

    Am starting to wonder if the oily steam messed with ignition. Are there ever any issues with the ignition?

    Maybe there is just a piece of junk in carb getting stuck at certain times causing this. I don't know. I do know that stumble goes away after hard ridding, but returns after a bit of puttin. First time checked old plug, it was whitish. Last night when I changed it out, it was black. Almost fouled looking, but issue still present with new plug. Have not checked color of new yet...haven't test drove.

    Sorry so meandering. Trying to convey as much as I can recall off top of head.

    Thank you for any input or suggestions in advance.

    Jeff.

    and I know life is too short for cheap beer. But I still like it.

  2. #2
    Senior Member elime's Avatar
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    I hope you used a torque wrench to tighten the screws. They only need to be a little bit more than finger tight.

    The other thing is did you check the oil filter for the 4 little holes at the other end? If the holes aren't there the head doesn't get any oil and you can trash it very quickly. If you don't know take out the oil filter and check it. Please!

    When you post what you found wrong we all learn. Thanks.
    jeffrolives likes this.
    Long live the internal combustion engine!

  3. #3
    Senior Member Smitty Blackstone's Avatar
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    Try Seafoam for the carb.
    jeffrolives likes this.

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  5. #4
    Senior Member jeffrolives's Avatar
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    Torque wrench. No.

    How do you torque wrench a screwdriver?

    Some were fairly tight, other not at all. I just tightened fairly snug in a alternating pattern.

    Too tight. What is there in there that it can hurt? I am not being condescending, I am just wondering.

    Yes, I checked at dealer and again when I got home (I got two). It had the 4 holes.

    Did the Seafoam already. Think maybe something got knocked loose now.

    It runs pretty great, but stumbles and/or dies. Wondering if anyone ever had any problems with ignition. From what i have been reading, it is pretty bullet proof. But maybe others did not ever have that gasket leak steam problem and compromised any other component.

    Been away from motorcycles for awhile. Been on tractors and big trucks.

  6. #5
    Senior Member RockyTFS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeffrolives View Post
    Torque wrench. No.

    How do you torque wrench a screwdriver?......
    You buy a 1/4 or 3/8 square drive Phillips head socket and put it on the wrench. Like this: PROTO Socket Bit, 3/8 Dr, #3, #3 Phillips J5242 - G2831166 at Zoro


    HOWEVER, be aware that the TW screws are NOT Phillips, but JIS, for Japanese Industrial Standard. You can get away with a #3 Phillips on the bigger screws, but not on the little ones like the carb bowl ones.
    jeffrolives likes this.
    Rocky
    2018 TW200
    2014 BMW R1200GS LC

  7. #6
    Member KeysRyder's Avatar
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    Never torqued a side cover, just somewhat tight with phillips screwdriver you will be fine, if you cant get off later use an impact driver. But what I usually do is replace with allen type bolts then you have no worries installing/removing.
    jeffrolives and 66roadkill66 like this.

  8. #7
    Senior Member admiral's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeffrolives View Post

    Now onto the leaking carb issue. I believe the needle is hanging up and allowing over flow while sitting over night. Previous owner said bike sat for about year-year and a half. When getting it going, he just drained bowl and tank and put new gas in, and it started. He did NO work on it himself other than this.

    Any tips or things to watch for? I have read a lot of different posts about the carburetors, but am still in the dark about when they changed them and how to get to the mix screw on my year. Is it under bowl? I cannot see any plug.

    Besides the overflow issue, the main issue (as of recently; did not do this first) is that you can start it and it will sit there and idle. Sometimes it is different. Sometimes after just a short time. Other times, after warm and responsive, it will just sit there and idle along, then, about 30 seconds or so, it just dies. Like ignition is cut. It will start right back up and idle, but after a bit, die.

    I first noticed this putting around. It hits a bit of a dead spot where it dies for a split second. While riding, it does not die, but sitting idling, sometimes it dies, and others just stumbles and recovers.

    Am starting to wonder if the oily steam messed with ignition. Are there ever any issues with the ignition?

    Maybe there is just a piece of junk in carb getting stuck at certain times causing this. I don't know. I do know that stumble goes away after hard ridding, but returns after a bit of puttin. First time checked old plug, it was whitish. Last night when I changed it out, it was black. Almost fouled looking, but issue still present with new plug. Have not checked color of new yet...haven't test drove.
    I recently repaired my leaking carb. The signs/symptoms are similar to your first paragraph-leaking gas from the overflow tube. Mine had been leaking for over a year, closer to 2 years. Before the repair, I just turned the petcock to the off position. Of course this only masks the problem.

    Couple months back I posted my symptoms. All that responded said my NEEDLE SEAT O-RING was probably worn or missing. Sure enough, when I removed the float needle valve seat, the o-ring was hard and cracked. It broke off in pieces when I removed it.

    Since replacing this o-ring, it has not leaked at all.

    Here's a couple notes:


    I removed the float in order to remove the needle valve seat. I'm not sure you have to do this, but if you do, BE VERY CAREFUL REMOVING THE FLOAT PIN. The pin has to be put back in reverse of how it came out.

    After I replace the needle valve seat o-ring, my TW started running lean (white spark plug tip). I was told that my leaking carb may have made my TW run rich, but not overly so. I then made some minor adjustments to the carb by backing out my pilot screw to about 2 1/2 from it's original setting of 2 I think.

    I also took the time to make sure to clean both the main jet and pilot jet.

    Here are a couple links you will find extremely helpful. Your carb may be slightly different, but close enough to figure out. Good Luck.

    https://tw200forum.com/forum/technica...ification.html

    https://tw200forum.com/forum/technica...tor-float.html
    Bagger and jeffrolives like this.

  9. #8
    Senior Member elime's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeffrolives View Post
    Too tight. What is there in there that it can hurt?
    Stripped threads and broken screws. And the next time you go to remove them they will be way tighter than you made them. It is as if they self tighten. I have had to use an impact wrench to remove them after making them to tight and running for a while. Also tightening all the bolts the same applies even pressure all the way around so the cover doesn't supposedly warp.

    I have never read this anywhere but I suspect because aluminum expands more than steel when it gets hot, that following factory torque specs makes allowances for this expansion. Over tightening and then applying heat would further stress the threads so the next time you take it apart and put it back together one of the threads in one of the holes fails and a quick simple job instantly becomes a headache.

    Just my 2 cents worth. I am a fanatic about using a torque wrench and use slightly less than the factory recommended values on the side covers. I also use anti-seize but that is another topic. Tony
    jeffrolives likes this.
    Long live the internal combustion engine!

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