2015 TW - Running in and first oil change
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Thread: 2015 TW - Running in and first oil change

  1. #1
    Junior Member andrew5336's Avatar
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    Question 2015 TW - Running in and first oil change

    Hi Guys

    Had a bit of a false start in my TW 200 journey - the 2014 I bought had bent triple clamps so I returned it before licensing etc was done and the dealer has refunded me.

    Managed to find a 2015 Demo model with about 250km (150miles) on the clock that I have paid the little bit extra for - think it was a wise choice as my 1998 KTM 640 has been a bit of a money pit and my 2007 Subaru Forester XT has been a money black hole haha.

    Anyway, advice please on running in (I'm sure the first 150 miles it has been thrashed but I'd like to try) and when to do a first oil change?

    Heading up Sani Pass into Lesotho on Saturday to see the snow (only happens a few times a year in South Africa) - very excited for the TeeDub and my first trip!

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sani_Pass
    http://mountainpassessouthafrica.co....sani-pass.html
    Last edited by andrew5336; 07-02-2015 at 08:38 AM.

  2. #2
    Junior Member andrew5336's Avatar
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    Cool thanks very much - will follow the 250 mile change then maybe 1000 then every 2000 or so thereafter.

    Re the XT - it was the previous owner's fault - didn't service it properly. Now that its had a full rebuild, tune etc its bulletproof (I hope) and seriously fast haha
    TWilight likes this.

  3. #3
    Senior Member RockyTFS's Avatar
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    Change the oil immediately unless you can verify that the dealer did it for you.....highly unlikely. The filter can be cleaned many times in kerosene or gas. Change the oil and clean the screen again at 500 km. Then you can go to 3,000 km. intervals. Above 3,000 km you can change over to a full synthetic, like Mobil 4T Racing 10W40. Clutch and gears will work better.

    DON'T GET IT REAL HOT for the first 1,000 km!!! Constantly change RPM's....lots of gear changes. And of course don't lug it.
    Last edited by RockyTFS; 07-02-2015 at 11:49 AM.
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    Rocky
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  5. #4
    Junior Member andrew5336's Avatar
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    Great, thanks!

    Won't have a chance to do it now but will do on Monday - only perhaps 100km this weekend.

    Will be nice and cold in the mountains but I'll keep the revs under control and in the comfortable zone between too low and too high.

    Luckily the roads are super twisty and up and down so gear changes won't be an issue!

  6. #5
    Senior Member kj7687's Avatar
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    After much research, contemplation, discussion, and debate, the following is what I have come up with for engine break-in methodology (yes, I DID save this in a notepad file...):

    *Always warm up for a minute before riding and go easy on it while it's still cold (people will debate this, but I am one hundred percent confident that this is better than jumping straight on and red lining a cold motor through all the gears! No one has ever told me anything that makes me doubt this part even a little, and I don't think anyone ever will)


    *Do several complete heat cycles, especially in the first hundred miles


    *Don't run the engine too long without giving it a rest, particularly during the first couple hundred miles


    *Change the engine oil and filter early and often (with conventional oil)


    *Frequent variation of throttle, RPM, speed, and gear selection


    *Lots of acceleration and engine braking


    *Be very careful to never lug the engine; generally keep the trans in a lower gear than you would for normal post-break-in cruising


    *Pretty much follow the book with regard to throttle-position and RPM constraints


    Twilight's comment is pretty much on the money This is a highly debated topic and 10 different people will probably have 10 different ideas; you sort of have to formulate your own plan.
    Last edited by kj7687; 07-03-2015 at 03:58 AM.
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    KJ, just KJ, ok.


    Current rides:
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    Past rides: 2015 Yamaha XT 250, 1997 Suzuki DR 200, 2007 Honda Ruckus, 2007 Yamaha TW 200, 2007 Kawasaki Ninja 500, 2009 Kawasaki KLX331S; 1994 GMC Sierra 1500, 1987 Nissan Pathfinder, 1992 Acura Integra, 1986 Honda CRX, 1989 Jeep Cherokee, 1994 Chevrolet Astro Van, 1979 Volkswagen Rabbit, 1984 Jeep Cherokee

  7. #6
    Senior Member kj7687's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by andrew5336 View Post
    Cool thanks very much - will follow the 250 mile change then maybe 1000 then every 2000 or so thereafter.

    Re the XT - it was the previous owner's fault - didn't service it properly. Now that its had a full rebuild, tune etc its bulletproof (I hope) and seriously fast haha
    Personally I'd change the oil now as well, and add at least one more oil change to that, at 500 or 600 miles.
    TWilight and grewen like this.
    KJ, just KJ, ok.


    Current rides:
    2004 GMC Sierra 1500, 1999 Toyota 4Runner

    Past rides: 2015 Yamaha XT 250, 1997 Suzuki DR 200, 2007 Honda Ruckus, 2007 Yamaha TW 200, 2007 Kawasaki Ninja 500, 2009 Kawasaki KLX331S; 1994 GMC Sierra 1500, 1987 Nissan Pathfinder, 1992 Acura Integra, 1986 Honda CRX, 1989 Jeep Cherokee, 1994 Chevrolet Astro Van, 1979 Volkswagen Rabbit, 1984 Jeep Cherokee

  8. #7
    Senior Member kj7687's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TWilight View Post
    For MY bike....the 2014 TW200....I "will" change the engine oil every 1000 miles, after the initial break-in period. By the time mine hits the first 1000 miles (at 825 right now), it will have had 4 oil changes.
    After that, it will be new oil and a filter cleaning...every 1000 miles. My bike, my engine, and I know how hard I run that little engine...and oil is cheap.
    I've always done thousand mile changes on my DR200. It's not let me down yet! Three thousand might be okay for putting around town for 20 minutes at a time in moderate climates. But like you said, oil is cheap!
    littletommy and TWilight like this.
    KJ, just KJ, ok.


    Current rides:
    2004 GMC Sierra 1500, 1999 Toyota 4Runner

    Past rides: 2015 Yamaha XT 250, 1997 Suzuki DR 200, 2007 Honda Ruckus, 2007 Yamaha TW 200, 2007 Kawasaki Ninja 500, 2009 Kawasaki KLX331S; 1994 GMC Sierra 1500, 1987 Nissan Pathfinder, 1992 Acura Integra, 1986 Honda CRX, 1989 Jeep Cherokee, 1994 Chevrolet Astro Van, 1979 Volkswagen Rabbit, 1984 Jeep Cherokee

  9. #8
    Senior Member RobG's Avatar
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    IMO I seriously doubt the first 150 miles will cause any problems on this motor, even if it was abused. My 20k+ mile '92 that I swear has been underwater, and continues to puke up more goop every time I change the oil, still runs like a top. The goop looks like ground up tree bark mixed with motor oil (no metal bits). So I've been changing the oil on it every couple hundred miles until that stuff is gone.

    I agree on the shorter oil change intervals, given how little oil these things hold and how hot they tend to run. I like that the filter is washable... makes the oil changes that much cheaper.

    Above all else, enjoy it!
    littletommy, grewen and TWilight like this.
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