Is this the missing part that may be the cause of slow return to Idle?
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Thread: Is this the missing part that may be the cause of slow return to Idle?

  1. #1
    Senior Member VintageGW's Avatar
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    Is this the missing part that may be the cause of slow return to Idle?

    Over the weekend I removed the carb and took it down to basics to see what was going on with the slow return to idle and some other idiot things it was doing. It was obvious that lots of folks had poked around in there as the screw heads were abysmal and much of the jets assembly was jiggered with..Then I checked cables, slide, all the moving parts and could not identify the culprit. I even ran it through the HF ultrasonic tank several times to make sure it was clean. (Used the coffee basket from the Starbucks coffee pot for the jets & small parts). Wifely doesn't know about that yet...

    IMG_2740.jpg

    IMG_2751 (1).jpg
    Then, late in the evening I was looking at the carb diagram and said I don't remember seeing one of those little springs!

    Carb Parts.jpg

    In fact, I did not find the tiny little spring that is #8 in the diagram that resides above the needle collar and keeper on the needle (and maybe closes the main jet when the throttle is not open?).
    Where to find one? On line of course but backordered and etc. Local dealer, closed on Monday, had one today, 75 mile round trip for $1.99 part.

    IMG_2749.jpg

    Now the question for the carb gurus out there. IS THIS THE CAUSE OF THE SLOW RETURN TO IDLE?
    It can't be that simple can it? Please let it be so!

    IMG_2750.jpg
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    Senior Member Fred's Avatar
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    No experience with this specifically but your diagnosis sounds very correct. Gonna take it to local Ace Hardware to get a few 35 cent clones before installing and/or letting oem spring go "Boing!"across the shop floor never to be seen again?
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    Senior Member VintageGW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fred View Post
    No experience with this specifically but your diagnosis sounds very correct. Gonna take it to local Ace Hardware to get a few 35 cent clones before installing and/or letting oem spring go "Boing!"across the shop floor never to be seen again?
    thanks Fred, that's encouraging. I am still waiting for the rebuild kit to show up so I have some time to ponder.
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    Senior Member grewen's Avatar
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    I know when I put that spring on the wrong side ( poor memory) it sure ran rich so I would put my money it , that would be your fix
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    Senior Member jbfla's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by VintageGW View Post
    ?......THE CAUSE OF THE SLOW RETURN TO IDLE?
    It can't be that simple can it? Please let it be so!

    IMG_2750.jpg
    yes, that could be the solution to your problem,

    but it is not the only cause for slow return to idle.

    jb
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    Senior Member TWROG's Avatar
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    Wish you all the best of luck that that is your problem. But...............my experience and just about EVERY experience Ive read about with slow return to idle the ONLY thing that has fixed it was a new carb.
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  8. #7
    Senior Member VintageGW's Avatar
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    Your point is well made. I have ordered a rebuild kit with new brass parts. Any ideas on what other potential causes of slow return to idle may be?
    Last edited by VintageGW; 07-21-2015 at 08:51 PM. Reason: Grammar

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    Senior Member TWROG's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by VintageGW View Post
    Your point is well made. I have ordered a rebuild kit with new brass parts. Any ideas on what other potential causes of slow return to idle may be?
    From all the research Ive done its caused by an air leak...................somewhere. In order for your engine to rev it needs more air than it had not reving. I had the airbox boot off mine and looked down the carb throat with a mirror. When it would go from a higher rpm, then eventually settle down to idle there was absolutely NO movement of the slide, which means it was getting its air from somewhere else. I was never able to figure out where that somewhere else was. This happened to me on 2 different bikes, the TW and a Suzuki GN125. I had the carbs taken apart on those 2 so many times looking for the reason............never could find it. The fix for both was a new carb.
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    Senior Member jtstdub's Avatar
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    Have and had the same issue... Maybe an exception to what is actually happening with your carb... The exception is that my engine would drop to Idle pretty good until the engine got fully warmed up. Then the throttle would hang. I did the remove, clean, replace the parts that came in the kit.... I replaced the intake manifold and "O" ring... ETC! There are no air leaks.
    After I was done the idle issue was better but not really gone.
    I experimented a bit and found that if the idle is high and I am stopped if I let the clutch out just enough to drop the rpm off high idle then the engine would IDLE properly....

    So I adjusted the idle down to a 900=-1000rpm after the engine got fully warm and the high Idle went away..... Although sometimes as I come to a stop the idle will be a bit high 1300-1400 but it will drop to idle after a second or two.

    When the engine is cold and the choke is out I have to hold the throttle up a bit for about a minute... No big deal for me.

    I have lived with this for about a year and I am happy with the performance of my DUB. I ride it 2-3 times a week.

    I could replace the carb but I currently see no reason to.

    I did add an extension and little knob to the Idle jet adjustment... After I got the engine idling nice, on the rich side I have not touched that adjustment in about a year.

    I will add that I asked folks here on the forum if someone would intentionally setting their idle high 2000-2500 rpm... Drive it til it got hot and see if the Idle would hang for a second or more.... ... I was curious if setting the Idle high intentionally would cause a sluggish return to the 2000-2500 idle.


    Here is a link to that thread:

    https://tw200forum.com/forum/technica...e-issue-2.html

    Jim

  11. #10
    Senior Member VintageGW's Avatar
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    Thanks Jim, I continue to be encouraged by what I hear on this subject though the real test will be when I get the new repair kit in it. Really glad yours worked out. I have tried the release the clutch and the idle slows at most stop signs but up and down single track, this high idle thing can be uncomfortable to say the least.

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