Spongy Breaks?
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Thread: Spongy Breaks?

  1. #1
    Member uncle_zach@rocketmail.com's Avatar
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    Hey I puchased a 95 T-Dub in October and have been working on it a little bit at a time but now I've jumped in with both feet. I've been adjusting my breaks to get rid of slop in the front brakes. Thinking that the breaks have been wore down I removed the drum but the brakes looked fine and still had plenty of pad left. So I just put it all back together again and adjusted the breaks and they felt fantastic! But then a week later my front brakes were suddenly gone again. Any thoughts or suggestions would be much appreciated.





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  2. #2
    Banned qwerty's Avatar
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    dija ride thru a crik?




  3. #3
    Senior Member lizrdbrth's Avatar
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    "Gone" as in out of adjustment, or "gone" as in not grabbing?



    If they're going out of adjustment in a week your brake cabls is about to break.



    If they're actuating, but not grabbing your efforts to "take the slack out" are glazing your brake shoes. Drum brakes need free play.



    I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you.

    Powdercoated '87 frame, extended swingarm, YZ fork legs, ATV tire, 14/55, XT350 tank, spliced quick-release seat, disc brake conversion, beeg headlight, beeger rack, Lizrdcooler, Lizrdventz and bunch of other stuff all covered in invisible ink.

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  5. #4
    Senior Member Rohnsman's Avatar
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    Isn't "Spongy Breaks" a swampy area somewhere in the south where folks like to go riding?

  6. #5
    Junior Member rfactor's Avatar
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    By free play, how much are we talking about, as in how much pull on the lever should be free before the brakes start to grab? I have the same issue and have tightened the brakes down so there's probably only a half inch of lever pull before they grab, I feel like otherwise when I squeeze hard the lever will hit the handlebar...

  7. #6
    Banned qwerty's Avatar
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    Spin the front tire and listen for the shoes to drag. If you can't hear them drag, tighten the adjustment a bit. As soon as you hear them drag, squeeze the lever good and hard, release, and spin again. If the brakes no longer drag, tighten a bit more. Squeeze, release, and spin. What you want is a little shhh_shhh_shhh_... from the shoes barely touching the drum as the wheel spins after a hard application via the lever.




  8. #7
    Senior Member lizrdbrth's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by qwerty View Post
    Spin the front tire and listen for the shoes to drag. If you can't hear them drag, tighten the adjustment a bit. As soon as you hear them drag, squeeze the lever good and hard, release, and spin again. If the brakes no longer drag, tighten a bit more. Squeeze, release, and spin. What you want is a little shhh_shhh_shhh_... from the shoes barely touching the drum as the wheel spins after a hard application via the lever.


    The above procedure, minus the "shh-shh-shhh" part.



    Adjust only til that sound barely goes away.



    I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you.

    Powdercoated '87 frame, extended swingarm, YZ fork legs, ATV tire, 14/55, XT350 tank, spliced quick-release seat, disc brake conversion, beeg headlight, beeger rack, Lizrdcooler, Lizrdventz and bunch of other stuff all covered in invisible ink.

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  9. #8
    Member uncle_zach@rocketmail.com's Avatar
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    Thank ya for helping me out on this issue I plan on playing with it once the arkie tornadoes move on by got all the other vehicles in the garage so i cant work on it

  10. #9
    Banned qwerty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lizrdbrth View Post
    The above procedure, minus the "shh-shh-shhh" part.



    Adjust only til that sound barely goes away.
    The shh-shh-shh will go away before you hit the stop sign at the end of the road. Doesn't really matter about the 1% unless you're racing a super competitive class. Never know the difference on the street. just be sure to spin the tire and apply the brake after each adjustment just to move the shoes to their new neutral position.




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