Hi, haven't been able to get on the site since it went to it's new look. So I just changed to a new name. New sight new name.
The 07' TW has some 30k miles now and died, no compression. So I did a top end. Had to bore the cylinder 50 over.
It wouldn't start after I assembled the engine. No spark. I found the wires from the stator finally cut through due to their routing to the outside of the case. I have had the case cover off three or four times in the bikes history and was befuddled why it was just pinched between the case and it's cover not ran through a groove or through a grommet. I figured the Yamaha engineers knew better than me but I guess not as the wires finally cut through.
Are they all pinched between the case and it's cover? I saw there was a plastic insert that might have been engineered for the wires to go through but the wire is not long enough and it fits flush to the case so it would pinch the wires as well and it looks like it might put the wires close to the sprocket/chain.
My idea it to solder some wire between the cut wires to make it longer and either use the plastic insert to run the wire through or whittle a slot in the case cover where the wires were originally ran.
You are right. I went to another site and found a post about someone else that had the same problem. Mine was installed pinched from the factory so I just followed suit, not in that opening on the case side and the opening has always been full of crud so I never saw it.
Now do I solder all the wires or buy a new $40 dollar set of wires? Decisions, decisions. Recommendations.
Anybody tried to get the allen head bolts out that hold the wire set in? I put a lot of pressure on an allen wrench then beat on an impact wrench some and they did not come loose. Do you think they have thread lock on them?
I don't think the wire set comes out of the stator assembly and it's $250 so it's a soldering I'll be do'in.
I'd remove the stator and do the soldering on a bench. Use heat shrink tubing for insulation of the joints. Oil does not conduct electricity so the heat shrink is only to prevent shorts.
The wire cut was outside the stator box in a dry area but it is heat shrinked and soldered back and runn'in so I did something right. I also rerouted the wires as the factory installed them pinched. The way they had them ran they were not long enough to go through their intended slot to the outside.
I agree with qwerty---You should have no problem with soldering them-but do a good job take your time. Two of the local farmers damaged the wires in a similar fashion and wrapped them in electrical tape. They check it about once a year and they have been running this way for at least two years. (I prefer the heat shrink approach myself)
No Worries. But I would hunt also around for a new wire bundle or the other option is go to an electric shop and get some new connectors and build your own wire bundle.
I'm not sure what kind of wire they use for this application but I noticed it feels different from the other wires used on the bike.
If you can't get the allens out (maybe take it to a friend) with a pneumatic impact driver 1/4 drive and see if you can get them out that way.
Thanks but I have all the impact tools. Air and impact driven ( hammer).
There is no wire bundle to purchase. You buy the stator with the "wire bundle" attached. There is one bundle attached to the stator with five wires. The other has two wires. Look at the parts diagram.