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  1. #1
    Member Homeskool's Avatar
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    Hey everyone.

    I ordered this and now I am going to install it but I'm pretty darn sure I need somthing else here.



    http://www.chromeglow.com/catalog.as...showprevnext=1



    I am replacing my entire rear cluster with this unit.

    It is 12 volt. But If I just connect my brake/turn wires directly to it I'm pretty sure the

    turn single won't acutally work from what I've read about other people trying this.

    Pretty sure it needs to be "loaded" with a normal bulb. Otherwise it will flash too fast or not at all?



    The guy who I ordered it from assured me it would not need one of those.

    But I think he is totally wrong in the case of the Tw200.



    If he is wrong does anyone know of a in-line product I can add to simulate the amp load of a normal bulb?

    Or am I in-correct and need somthing else?



    I'm going for a totally naked look and I really think this licenceplate LED bar is about as clean as I can make it look.

  2. #2
    Banned qwerty's Avatar
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    Take your original flasher to an auto parts store and ask for an electronic flasher that is not load sensitive with the same size connectors. $5-10. No extra doodads to go wrong. You can order online here. I used the FL2-Red, but when I did my conversion the motorcycle and scooter flashers had yet to be invented.




  3. #3
    Member Homeskool's Avatar
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    Thanks qwerty!

    I'll use that website you linked me too. I'm not sure what one to order. Or even where my current "flasher" unit is. Where abouts is the old unit I need to replace located?

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  5. #4
    Banned qwerty's Avatar
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    Under the right side cover on Tdub, but that's where I might have relocated when switching to the electronic flasher. Sorry, I'm old and coming down with CRS. I think you'll want the motorcycle flasher with the single plugs. If I do another TW I'll use the motorcycle flasher with the individual plugs and change the connectors if necessary. On Tdub I soldered and shrink tubed the original wires and used the FL-2 Red, right at the top of the flasher page. It is bolted under the right side cover right up above the front end of the tool kit tray.




  6. #5
    Senior Member shocker's Avatar
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    If you install this led light assy on the rear, what are your turn signal type in the front? If they are still stock bulb type your rear LED setup will work with them and still blink normally.

  7. #6
    Member Homeskool's Avatar
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    Good question poolsgold,



    Currently the front lights are still bulbs.

    Yesterday when testing the rear licence plate LED bar it would not flash.

    The front light came on and stayed on. Ither blinker. Left or right. Just stayed on.



    I was very sure since the front lights were still bulbs it would flash still. Or flash a little faster maybe.



    Now that said I will be installing LED lights on the front of the bike too. So I do need to order a new blinker unit.

    I think I am going to order on online. So I need to find a place.



    Qwerty linked me to a place a few posts up. But it looks like this is a soder in unit and not a outright replacement that uses the same plugs. Not that I mind if I have to soder it in. Easy ither way.



    Any comments on why it did not blink with the front bulbs still in

    Or any other recomindations about what replacement unit to order? Or should I go with the FL2-Red that qwerty linked me too?

    Thanks guys!

  8. #7
    Senior Member lizrdbrth's Avatar
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    Your mechanical flasher relies on the load of at least two bulbs to operate.



    Basically what it does heat up a bimetal, which opens and closes a set of points. When you don't have the full load, no flashie. It will flash faster if it has a heavier load, as when connecting a trailer, or if adding more incandescent bulbs to the circuit. LED bulbs have almost no amp draw, hence your turn signals light up, but don't generate enough heat to operate the bimetal swioth.



    Electronic flashers aren't load sensitive. They're basically just electronic timers that open and close a swith.



    I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you.

    Powdercoated '87 frame, extended swingarm, YZ fork legs, ATV tire, 14/55, XT350 tank, spliced quick-release seat, disc brake conversion, beeg headlight, beeger rack, Lizrdcooler, Lizrdventz and bunch of other stuff all covered in invisible ink.

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  9. #8
    Member Homeskool's Avatar
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    Thanks Lizrdbrth,

    Thanks makes sence.



    Still super odd that the rear led light did not come on when the front bulb was stuck on.

    That makes me think I have another problem of some sort.

  10. #9
    Senior Member lizrdbrth's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Homeskool View Post
    Thanks Lizrdbrth,

    Thanks makes sence.



    Still super odd that the rear led light did not come on when the front bulb was stuck on.

    That makes me think I have another problem of some sort.


    LED's are diodes. That means current only flows one direction. Try reversing the connectors.



    I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you.

    Powdercoated '87 frame, extended swingarm, YZ fork legs, ATV tire, 14/55, XT350 tank, spliced quick-release seat, disc brake conversion, beeg headlight, beeger rack, Lizrdcooler, Lizrdventz and bunch of other stuff all covered in invisible ink.

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  11. #10
    Member Homeskool's Avatar
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    I never thought of that. I just assumed the black wire was negative. I'll connect my volt meter and test that as soon as I get home from work. Thanks for the tip!



    Also! Off topic

    Lizdbrth, I see in your avatar profile picture your bike looks like it has a stock headlight without the plastic front fairing. Do you have any high rez photos of that area of your bike? I wanted to explore my options of removing the headlight fairing but leaving the stock headlight and "trying" to clean up the rats nest of wires. Or perhaps there is another thread on this topic? From your photo it looks like you've done it very nicely!

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