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  1. #1
    Senior Member Larry's Avatar
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    I installed my kicker last night and I have a few questions/tips.



    Tip:



    1. Starter does not have to be removed. I started to pull it based on the install pics on the web and its not necessary.



    2. The clutch tool wasnt needed for me. Mine is a like new 08 and I just put it in 5th gear. Put the rear brake lever back in place and layed on the break while I lightly hit my impact on the nut. Worked perfectly and barely needed any power. To get it back on same routine but with a torque wrench instead of the impact. It was very easy to hold it and put 36ft lbs on it. Make sure 5th gear.



    3. I was able to re-use the case gasket on an 08 with 2200 miles. I purchased a replacement but I didn't use it because I wanted to see if the original would hold up. So far so good. I also didnt need the o-ring for the clutch rod because it was in great shape.



    Questions:



    1. Why is the initial kick down require a bit of pressure? It seems like its locked up but when you stand up on it it goes and fires right up. I'm used to an older kicker that moves pretty easily. The TW seems to need a hard push for the first 1/2 inch of movement and then it goes. Is it just the compression stroke holding it back at first? This would imply it always ends up back at the compression stroke when turning it off because it does it every time. It makes sense to me that the engine when turned off would probably end up near the compression stroke because the pressure would stop the engine when its just about stopped. But I wanted to ask. I plan on pulling the plug and kicking it to see if its easier and that I dont have a bind of somesort going on.



    2. Why does the kicker hit the foot pedal attachment on the end of the stroke? Not hard but it does. Is this normal?



    3. I had to drill out the non kick start plug in the case and then pop it out with a screwdriver. It would come out on its own. Anyone else have this issue?



    4. Why cant you re-use the clutch lock washer if its in good shape? I was able to bend mine back in shape and it seems like you could re-use it. I didn't but was wondering, is there a reason you must replace it?



    Thanks everyone for any assistance.



    Also, I got the slotted carb needle for the South American TW from Ron Ayers.com. I know a few people have been looking for this.
    2008 TW200 - Jimbo W/S, Rear Cycle Rack, Magnetic Drain Plug, Wally World Seat Cover, Custom JB Welded Seat Screws. (Desires - Kicker, Raised Handlebars, and Round Headlight)

  2. #2
    Senior Member pgilles's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Larry View Post
    ...

    Questions:



    1. Why is the initial kick down require a bit of pressure? It seems like its locked up but when you stand up on it it goes and fires right up. I'm used to an older kicker that moves pretty easily. The TW seems to need a hard push for the first 1/2 inch of movement and then it goes. Is it just the compression stroke holding it back at first? This would imply it always ends up back at the compression stroke when turning it off because it does it every time. It makes sense to me that the engine when turned off would probably end up near the compression stroke because the pressure would stop the engine when its just about stopped. But I wanted to ask. I plan on pulling the plug and kicking it to see if its easier and that I dont have a bind of somesort going on.

    I believe the pressure is due to the kicker gear being engaged. I have no idea if mine is smoother/easier from when I first installed the kick start. If all is works well and no unusual noises while it's running after the first couple miles I'd call it good.



    2. Why does the kicker hit the foot pedal attachment on the end of the stroke? Not hard but it does. Is this normal?

    Normal, was just covered in a different forum thread. All answers were that this is normal, even for other bikes.



    3. I had to drill out the non kick start plug in the case and then pop it out with a screwdriver. It would come out on its own. Anyone else have this issue?

    I popped that plug out from the inside of the case, don't recall it being difficult but it's been awhile since I did the install.



    4. Why cant you re-use the clutch lock washer if its in good shape? I was able to bend mine back in shape and it seems like you could re-use it. I didn't but was wondering, is there a reason you must replace it?

    You could re-use it. But to replace it is one of those cheap insurances that's recommended to people. Bend something enough and it'll break, and you don't want that piece loose inside with a potential of lodging itself between gear teeth or its shrapnel floating around inside the oil. When someone can't trust their own discretion whether it's still good or not, it's easier to tell them to just buy a new lock washer than to fret over whether it will break off.



    ...
    Sold bike.



    Youtube vids of old TW's acceleration:

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  3. #3
    Moderator vuldub's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Larry View Post
    Questions:

    2. Why does the kicker hit the foot pedal attachment on the end of the stroke? Not hard but it does. Is this normal?


    Read my thread on this:

    https://tw200forum.com/index.php?/top...starter-added/



    Quote Originally Posted by Larry View Post
    3. I had to drill out the non kick start plug in the case and then pop it out with a screwdriver. It would come out on its own. Anyone else have this issue?


    I just used a dowel the same size at the plug and one whack with the rubber mallet from the inside side and the whole plug just popped out.



    Quote Originally Posted by Larry View Post
    4. Why cant you re-use the clutch lock washer if its in good shape? I was able to bend mine back in shape and it seems like you could re-use it. I didn't but was wondering, is there a reason you must replace it?
    You can just re-use it. On the CT90's we must be re-use as new ones are impossible to find. That said, for $5 I would replace it on my CT90 if one was available. The tang that gets bent to hold the nut is not always the same tang, but if it is it can fatigue and break. You don't what that piece floating around in the case.
    Regards...Wes
    In the Stable: 73 Honda CT90,81 Honda CT110,81 Honda CT70,04 Yamaha TW200,07 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500

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  5. #4
    Moderator vuldub's Avatar
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    Just a question, in the original writeup the clutch nut part number is listed as 90215-14168. My dealer told me that was in error and I needed to order 90215-14186, which worked correctly. What part number did you use. I would like to modify/update the sticky if necessary.



    Also, I started to pull the electric starter and you are correct, it does not need to be removed nor loosened. I will put this in the sticky too.



    Thanks.
    Regards...Wes
    In the Stable: 73 Honda CT90,81 Honda CT110,81 Honda CT70,04 Yamaha TW200,07 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500

  6. #5
    Senior Member Larry's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vuldub View Post
    Just a question, in the original writeup the clutch nut part number is listed as 90215-14168. My dealer told me that was in error and I needed to order 90215-14186, which worked correctly. What part number did you use. I would like to modify/update the sticky if necessary.



    Also, I started to pull the electric starter and you are correct, it does not need to be removed nor loosened. I will put this in the sticky too.



    Thanks.


    I used 90215-14186-00. It worked fine.



    I also found the inconsistency with the part number when ordering.
    2008 TW200 - Jimbo W/S, Rear Cycle Rack, Magnetic Drain Plug, Wally World Seat Cover, Custom JB Welded Seat Screws. (Desires - Kicker, Raised Handlebars, and Round Headlight)

  7. #6
    Senior Member Rainman's Avatar
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    Good questions and tips Larry. Thanks for asking and telling as I'm sure it will help others out.
    If you can't find it, grind it

    1990 TW200

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