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  1. #1
    Senior Member lizrdbrth's Avatar
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    II saw a diagram of the TW oil passage routing somewhere. Anyone know where to find it?



    I want to look into tapping my cases while I have my motor apart and avoiding the whole case-mounted oil cooler adapter thing.



    I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you.

    Powdercoated '87 frame, extended swingarm, YZ fork legs, ATV tire, 14/55, XT350 tank, spliced quick-release seat, disc brake conversion, beeg headlight, beeger rack, Lizrdcooler, Lizrdventz and bunch of other stuff all covered in invisible ink.

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  2. #2
    Senior Member Gerry's Avatar
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    I found taking oil from the 'outboard' feed to the primary shaft bearing pretty straight forward. This has worked for me for over two years now and is 'reversable'. Gerry



    Take care my Friend.........

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    Senior Member uktw125's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lizrdbrth View Post
    II saw a diagram of the TW oil passage routing somewhere. Anyone know where to find it?



    I want to look into tapping my cases while I have my motor apart and avoiding the whole case-mounted oil cooler adapter thing.


    Chapter 2-19 of the manual, or scroll down to page 41 on the pdf file online manual.

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  5. #4
    Senior Member lizrdbrth's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by uktw125 View Post
    Chapter 2-19 of the manual, or scroll down to page 41 on the pdf file online manual.


    Dang. I had it all along. Thanks.



    Gerry, I want to tap into it upstream ( on top of one of the case halves ) of where yours picks it up, if possible. Thanks for the idea.



    Actually I want to use the frame backbone as an oil tank, a' la' TT500. The same could be done either by your method or with an oil cooler adapter, but once I have the cases seperated there may be an oil passage I can tap into.



    I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you.

    Powdercoated '87 frame, extended swingarm, YZ fork legs, ATV tire, 14/55, XT350 tank, spliced quick-release seat, disc brake conversion, beeg headlight, beeger rack, Lizrdcooler, Lizrdventz and bunch of other stuff all covered in invisible ink.

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  6. #5
    Banned qwerty's Avatar
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    How do you plan to keep the oil from draining back to the crankcase?




  7. #6
    Senior Member lizrdbrth's Avatar
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    Inlet at the low point, outlet at the high point, top entry and exit. Only the lines will drain back, and they will be minimal length. By tapping the cases the lines go more or less straight up to and from the top tube.



    If you could find a place to mount it, a remote spin-on oil filter adapter could be used in the same manner as long as the filter were vertical, with the fittings at the top.



    At shutdown the return line and crankcase vent would prevent siphoning and the extra oil would remain in the "tank".



    The Harley guys used to run remote spin-ons all the time, back in the day. I never understood why they ran them horizontally where they'd just overfill the crankcase on shutoff rather than serving as a reservoir.



    If anyone sees a flaw in my logic, please feel free to blast away.



    I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you.

    Powdercoated '87 frame, extended swingarm, YZ fork legs, ATV tire, 14/55, XT350 tank, spliced quick-release seat, disc brake conversion, beeg headlight, beeger rack, Lizrdcooler, Lizrdventz and bunch of other stuff all covered in invisible ink.

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  8. #7
    Banned qwerty's Avatar
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    Siphon effect?



    I'd be careful with fittings and such. TWs don't make much oil pressure, and additional restriction to flow could easily damage parts.



    EDIT: Additional oil volume would certainly be handy. Perhaps reroute a passage that returns oil to the crankcase. Use that source to fill the reservoir, then simply overflow back to the crankcase, if one exists. It is more common for oil systems to simply dump oil from whatever needs oil. As long as the reservoir was kept full, the window would still register properly. An oil filter would make an excellent reservoir since it would be easy to fill before installing.




  9. #8
    Senior Member lizrdbrth's Avatar
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    Siphon effect oould occur on shutdown as the return line drains, drawing oil out of the tank. The crank vent would equalize this from both ends, so it shouldn't occur. With the lines entering and exiting the TOP of the tank the full volume of the tank should sit there until the next startup. So if your tank held a quart you'd have an extra quart of oil being constantly recycled and cooled.



    This would be no different than oil cooler plumbing, but the filter (or in my case the upper frame tube) BECOMES the cooler, but without draining back on shutdown. Two fittings, no bends.



    Anyway, I'm gunna weld the rear of the top tube closed and do this on my bike's next iteration.



    I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you.

    Powdercoated '87 frame, extended swingarm, YZ fork legs, ATV tire, 14/55, XT350 tank, spliced quick-release seat, disc brake conversion, beeg headlight, beeger rack, Lizrdcooler, Lizrdventz and bunch of other stuff all covered in invisible ink.

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