Fixing a flat
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Thread: Fixing a flat

  1. #1
    Senior Member rm_hm's Avatar
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    I have a few medium trips planned and was wondering if I should pack a bead breaker or if my small pair of tire irons will do the trick in case I need to patch a flat. I'm not sure how easily the tires come loose if I need to swap tubes.



    (I'm running stock tires)


  2. #2
    Banned qwerty's Avatar
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    Beads can be tough, especially on the rear.




  3. #3
    Senior Member peruano's Avatar
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    I may be kidding myself, but so far if going far, I carry a 12 volt air pump with the proper fitting for hooking up to the tw electrical system, and a bottle of slime. Except for a major nail, i'm hoping I could slow down the leakage to limp back to the road with multiple fillings after the slime was inserted. Obivously you need a valve stem remover as well so that you can insert the slime. The specific stuff for motorcycles (insertion requred before the flat) is undoubtedly preferable. I can't recall the name at present. BTW Gizmow has a block of wood that he has successfully inserted between the tire and the frame and as he rolled the bike forward or backward it forced the bead off the rim so that he could pull out the tube a segment at a time without removing the wheel. I've never seen the exact shape of the block of wood or its exact placement but Giz always responds to a request for info. Lets see if he rises to this bait. Good luck. Tom
    Tom - TW200 2002, Kawasaki VN 500 2006

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  5. #4
    Senior Member Gerry's Avatar
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    Geez, good thing I don't have the responsibilities most of you folks have. I spend way to much time online (here mostly).



    To practice for a "just in case" situation, I tried to withdraw my tube from the rear tire to see if trail-side patching was possible. As a bicycle mechanic for many years while going to college (I dropped out), I repaired many tires in many ways. The 'best' technique is to completely remove the tube, but not all situations afford us the time or equipment to do this. In my experience/opinion, getting the bead off the rim is the most daunting task. My bike was two years old when I tried this. New rubber and no rust. As I wanted to leave the tire and rim on the bike and just expose enough tube to apply a patch to the hole, what I needed to do was unseat one side of the tire (bead) and pry it over the rim as to allow me to reach in and grab/withdraw the tube. I was able to do this with the help of a small block of wood that I wedged between the swingarm (rt. side) and tire. I made the block in such a way as to 'lock' against the swing are and force the tire toward the center as I turned the wheel by hand. This worked fine on a two year old bike.



    In my opinion, should you be imbarking on a major adventure, I would think it to be in your best interest to brake and talc the beads of both your tires. After doing this, I think the wood block wedge would have a 'better' chance of working. I always carry two 'standard' tire irons as well. I have never used a bead breaker. At best, it is a job that will take some time, relax and go slow. Use EXTREME care in prying that tire bead back into the rim, there is a very real possibility that you will pinch (put a hole in) the tube by letting it (the tube) get between the tire-iron and rim. Good luck, and thanks for the 'sales pitch' Tom. Gerry
    Take care my Friend.........

  6. #5
    Senior Member PJungnitsch's Avatar
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    As mentioned breaking the bead ahead of time might well be a good idea, especially on the back. I changed both my tires a couple months ago (they'd been on since 1996), and the back took a LOT of pressure. My little tire irons did nothing, eventually I got a bright idea and used the jack from my pickup:











    If you can get the bead broken in the field, a third tire iron makes levering the tire off way easier.

  7. #6
    Senior Member srs713's Avatar
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    Ok... I got these off the old forum.



    Who's are they??









    Stephen S.

    '07 TW200:

    15/50 sprockets, O-ring chain, D2Moto foot pegs

    tweaked carb (127.5 jet, 0.019 needle shim, idle screw @2.25),

    Rubbermaid "Action Packer" on homemade brackets

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