What "should" be done at 3500 miles?
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  1. #1
    Junior Member Topo's Avatar
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    I know there's some info in the manual about recommended servicing, but I wanted to ask, from a real world experience standpoint, what are the "must do" servicing needs at this mileage. Of course, this is beyond the obvious regular oil and filter change.

    thanks

  2. #2
    Senior Member RodneyReed's Avatar
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    The only real "must do" is to check the valve adjustment. You mentioned the oil and filter. This is also assuming you've been keeping an eye on the chain and sprockets on a regular basis, and have been servicing the air filter as needed.



    With that said, it doesn't take a whole lot of time to check everything.

  3. #3
    Senior Member peruano's Avatar
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    Checking air pressure in the tires weekly if not everytime you ride is a good habit. A low tire will make the bike corner and handle completely differently. A good go around the bike with allen wrenches, screwdriver, and hand wrenches is also wise to keep from loosing things like licence plates, helmet locks, and other things that wander when the fasteners vibrate loose. Watching that chain condition and tension is also important to not breaking or locking up a chain (not nice at highway speeds). Know your bike and it will serve you well. Ride on. Tom
    Tom - TW200 2002, Kawasaki VN 500 2006

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  5. #4
    Senior Member uktw125's Avatar
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    When you have done all the checks and adjustments don't forget the most important thing.



    Go for an extended "test" ride.

  6. #5
    Senior Member pgilles's Avatar
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    +1 on the above recommendations, you could also...

    Check battery water level.

    Give the zerks a good shot of grease.
    Sold bike.



    Youtube vids of old TW's acceleration:

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  7. #6
    Banned qwerty's Avatar
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    Drum brake bikes have maintenance needs listed on pages 3-1 and 3-2 of the Service Manual.



    Disc brake bikes have maintenance needs listed on pages 18-20 of the Supplement.



    If it's listed, do it.




  8. #7
    Junior Member Topo's Avatar
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    Thanks...don't think I'm up to the task of a valve adjustment...but will work on all the rest.

  9. #8
    Senior Member pgilles's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Topo View Post
    Thanks...don't think I'm up to the task of a valve adjustment...but will work on all the rest.


    It really isn't hard, you should try it. It's nothing more than a nut and bolt and a measurement. There's more risk in doing an oil change as owners are frequently given the wrong oil filter (without the holes) from the part supplier, thereby unknowingly allowing their bikes to run without proper oil flow.
    Sold bike.



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  10. #9
    Junior Member Topo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pgilles View Post
    It really isn't hard, you should try it. It's nothing more than a nut and bolt and a measurement. There's more risk in doing an oil change as owners are frequently given the wrong oil filter (without the holes) from the part supplier, thereby unknowingly allowing their bikes to run without proper oil flow.


    Well then...that *does* sound do-able. Thanks. I'll do a little searching for the how-to.



    I found out about the right filter to use before I changed it the first time. Time to do that again before this weekends trek to the Sierras.

  11. #10
    Senior Member lizrdbrth's Avatar
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    Post up a location. Odds are someone will offer to help you muddle through your first go-round.



    I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you.

    Powdercoated '87 frame, extended swingarm, YZ fork legs, ATV tire, 14/55, XT350 tank, spliced quick-release seat, disc brake conversion, beeg headlight, beeger rack, Lizrdcooler, Lizrdventz and bunch of other stuff all covered in invisible ink.

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