TW200 Firing problem
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  1. #1
    Member SirSmighty's Avatar
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    Hello, I just came across a nice 99 TW200 with no firing what so ever and i have no idea where to start everyone keeps telling me different things to test stator, CDI box, Coils. PLEASE HELP!

  2. #2
    Senior Member lizrdbrth's Avatar
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    Start from the start. Download the manual, grab a multimeter and go from there.



    I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you.

    Powdercoated '87 frame, extended swingarm, YZ fork legs, ATV tire, 14/55, XT350 tank, spliced quick-release seat, disc brake conversion, beeg headlight, beeger rack, Lizrdcooler, Lizrdventz and bunch of other stuff all covered in invisible ink.

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  3. #3
    Senior Member demarko69's Avatar
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    you have to tell us much more................

    please define 'not firing at all'



    does the engine turn over w/ the starter button

    is there spark at the spark plug cap

    is there spark at the plug



    if it is turning over and your getting spark could be fuel/carb related.



    the answer is in the details, be very descriptive on what you have, have done and symptoms.

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  5. #4
    Banned qwerty's Avatar
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    lizrdbrth speaks wisdom, download the manual. Follow the step-by-step troubleshooting system therein.




  6. #5
    Member SirSmighty's Avatar
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    Well i downloaded the manual and followed the steps of troubleshooting the problem, the actual problem is i am getting no spark what so ever from the spark plug, even doing the "take the spark plug out and holding it to the side of the motor while cranking the motor trick" still nothing. I have tested the stator with a ohms meter for continuity everything reads good getting beeps from the test "so i am guessing it's good?" i have tested the pulser coil but actually got no readings or beeps from that. Not sure if that sends signal or not. I am not very mechanically inclined any help will be greatly appreciated. I saw that the coil pack wire under the gas tank was messed up so i got a new coil and spark plug hoping for the problem to be fixed still nothing. A new stator for my bike would be $400 and pulser coil is $80. I am so lost i don't know what to do next and don't really have the money to take it to a shop to be looked at. So i guess my question is does the pulser coil put out ohm signals? i have tested every wire coming from the stator, CDI box, Coil pack, and the pulser wire is the only one not getting any beeps from the ohm tester. And no the bike doesn't start from the starter button, i have to cross it out with a screwdriver on the solenoid because i also don't have a kick start.

  7. #6
    Banned qwerty's Avatar
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    Why does the starter not work? Maybe same reason no spark?




  8. #7
    Member SirSmighty's Avatar
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    starter it's self does work, the starter button doesn't work. I have took the kill switch off crossed it over and still nothing.

  9. #8
    Senior Member lizrdbrth's Avatar
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    Solenoid coil, or the wiring to it.



    I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you.

    Powdercoated '87 frame, extended swingarm, YZ fork legs, ATV tire, 14/55, XT350 tank, spliced quick-release seat, disc brake conversion, beeg headlight, beeger rack, Lizrdcooler, Lizrdventz and bunch of other stuff all covered in invisible ink.

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  10. #9
    Member SirSmighty's Avatar
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    Yeah i know that, but what about the firing? i can cross the solenoid out and still crank the bike.

  11. #10
    Banned qwerty's Avatar
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    I'm thinking this particular bike has a systemic problem. Maybe something like extended exposure to corrosive atmosphere or simply a previous owner who was an assinine amatuer mechanic.



    The repair manuals provide a step-by-step process for troubleshooting. My experience is that most people lack the self-discipline to read and follow the directions given. This is a penny-wise and pound-foolish mindset. Another common distraction is the desire to hear the engine run. "Just get it running" becomes a mantra. When I competed in auto mechanics competitions in high school this thinking was drummed out of us. It doesn't work, and in real life pushing for an immediate engine start is not only a waste of time, but puts other systems in disrepair at risk for further damage.



    My favorite electrical system diagnostic tool is a 12 volt buzzer from Radio Shack mounted in a piece of PVC water pipe. The pipe provides protection from drops and bumps and a place to securely attach leads with some means of stress protection. It cost $0.99 years ago, but I'd expect a similar product would be under $5 today. A Velcro strap holds the device securely to my wrist.



    With the buzzer and a schematic I can start at the battery and trace any circuit to any component in a matter of seconds once access to the wiring and components is obtained. I use a very systemic process that adds each stage of the circuit until a fault is found. When the fault is found, the last stage added is ALWAYS the problem. Something like this:



    Battery - post to battery + post. buzz The battery is good.

    Battery - post to cable end. buzz The connection is good.

    Battery - post to other end to other end of cable. buzz The cable is good.

    Battery - post to eye on wire to fuse. buzz the connection is good.

    Battery - post to fuse holder. buzz The wire is good.

    Battery - post to other end of fuse. buzz The fuse is good.

    Battery - post to far end of fuse holder. buzz the fuse holder is good.

    Battery - post to junction box. buzz Wire to junction box is good.

    Battery - post to hot side of switch. buzz Wire to switch is good.

    Battery - post to controlled side of switch. buzz when switch is pushed Switch is good.

    Battery - post to wire from switch at selenoid. buzz when switch is pushed Wire from switch to selenoid is good.

    Battery - post to control ground of selenoid. buzz when switch is pushed Switching circuit of selenoid is good.



    NET: Nothing wrong with primary start circuit. Therefore, failure to start is in secondary (high amperage) start circuit.



    If there is a low-conductivity point, the buzzer will have a weak tone. That's a dead giveaway the last point added has a loose, broken, or corrosion issue.



    Point is, diagnosing electrical problems is best approached with a systemic process that eliminates functioning components as sources of the problem. Instead of asking "What is bad?" ask "What is good?" which leads to a process of elimination.




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