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Thread: Engine Squeak

  1. #1
    Senior Member assquatch20's Avatar
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    I was headed home last night when I noticed a decent loss in power and some intermittent squeaking from what sounded like the top end of the motor. Once I got home, it gave a lot of resistance trying to kick it over and I had no luck starting it. I've got fresh oil, a new filter, new tires, chain and sprockets on there, and this was the first day I'd done any long distance since the new stuff.



    It seems like I need to replace my float needle and seat, so I thought that might've been the loss of power until the squeaking came about. I think the flywheel might've been turned clockwise a bit while the cover was off for sprockets, but would this affect timing while the cam chain is still on?



    A friend thought the valves sounded kinda loud, but it's a loud bike to begin with, as far as valves go. I've also heard something about carb resistance and the slide squeaking or something like that, but I wouldn't think that could cause enough resistance to keep from kicking over unless something was terribly wrong.



    I'm gonna hopefully get the valve covers off and look for anything odd and set clearance tomorrow, but school's keeping me busy. I sure hope I haven't wrecked a valve, or worse, the cam. Any ideas what it might've been?



    P.S. I can't remember if I'll need my straight feeler gauges or the angled ones. Anybody know?

  2. #2
    Senior Member ATXthumper's Avatar
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    how many miles have you put on it since the oil change? did you verify it was the correct filter? (four slots, four holes)

    many TWs have fallen victim to partshouses selling mislabeled filters.
    '01 TW200: Tusk D-Flex Handguards w/ Spoilers, Pro Taper Grips, LEDs in Idiot Lights, Headlight Rockguard, Stearns Seat Pad, Oversized Footpegs and a Loud Ass Horn -SOLD
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  3. #3
    Senior Member assquatch20's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ATXthumper View Post
    how many miles have you put on it since the oil change? did you verify it was the correct filter? (four slots, four holes)

    many TWs have fallen victim to partshouses selling mislabeled filters.


    Since the change, maybe 80 or so miles. This was the first change on this bike, but I made sure I had the right filter before I left the dealer with it. No idea how many miles on it since the change before since I bought used, but it ran fine before I got ahold of it. Just needed the sprockets/chain. What I did find odd is there wasn't a filter in there when I went to put the new one in.



    I put a few miles on it without any trouble when I bought it, then it sat waiting on tires and a chain, now I've got this. I'll do a doublecheck on the filter before I get on the valves, though. FYI, oil level is fine.

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  5. #4
    Senior Member pgilles's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by assquatch20 View Post
    Since the change, maybe 80 or so miles........No idea how many miles on it since the change before since I bought used........What I did find odd is there wasn't a filter in there when I went to put the new one in.



    ....I'll do a doublecheck on the filter before I get on the valves, though....


    That's not good news to admit to yourself. Pull the filter and doublecheck. Then pull the cam and check the journals, that's where my money is betting. Sorry!!
    Sold bike.



    Youtube vids of old TW's acceleration:

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  6. #5
    Senior Member assquatch20's Avatar
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    Finally got to check a couple things out. Oil filter seems good. Collected some shavings pretty quick, so I'm gonna go for an oil change. Drain plug is stripped though so I'm gonna file it down to 18mm or pick up a bolt-out set or something.



    Pulled valve caps and timing cover. Things look okay, but there's a burnt oil smell going on. Clearances were a little bit out so I got them in spec. With it sitting, and no plug in there, I can push the kickstart through and it turns pretty easily at the flywheel. Just feels different than before. I really don't wanna, but I'll probably pull the head and check the cam out sometime soon. I might see if it'll run first though and listen for that noise again.

  7. #6
    Senior Member pgilles's Avatar
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    You can pull the cam without removing the head. It's a quick job.
    Sold bike.



    Youtube vids of old TW's acceleration:

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  8. #7
    Senior Member assquatch20's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pgilles View Post
    You can pull the cam without removing the head. It's a quick job.


    Hmm. Correct me here, but I'd let the tensioner out, get the cam chain off, then just work it straight out? What's the best way to get the thing aligned again when it goes back in?

  9. #8
    Senior Member pgilles's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by assquatch20 View Post
    Hmm. Correct me here, but I'd let the tensioner out, get the cam chain off, then just work it straight out? What's the best way to get the thing aligned again when it goes back in?


    That's about it. The cam chain is easily removed by removing the gear from the cam, then use a coat hanger to hold onto the chain and tie it off out of the way. Remove the cam retainer and the cam will come out. Remember to have it at TDC. The manual covers this as well but they tell you to remove the rocker arms and that is NOT needed.



    To get it aligned again just line up all your TDC marks again...align the flywheel to TDC then align cam gear mark to the notch on the housing (picture linked below shows the mark on the gear and the mark at the top of the housing). It's all about getting the gear installed at the same tooth on the chain (provided the chain doesn't slip off the crankshaft-side sprocket), so prior to disassembly mark the corresponding chain link that matches with the TDC mark on the cam gear.



    https://tw200forum.com/index.php?app=...t&attach_id=76
    Sold bike.



    Youtube vids of old TW's acceleration:

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