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Electrical Issues - Dimming Lights

4K views 22 replies 6 participants last post by  Dave Nafziger 
#1 ·
What is in black was a personal conversation between me and Operose. Red is what I did tonight while I had someone to hold flashlight.





I can tell you this much. My battery is dead. I haven't charged it though.

I've added led turnsignals and brake lights. Turn signal switch broke a few days ago.
<=- Clipped Wires this evening since they aren't working. Ends are covered.

I've also added a moose racing head light with separate high and low beams.

The problem has happened on and off since I bought the bike. I know I have a loose connection somewhere in the harness as I was able to jiggle the wires sometimes when it wouldn't start with the button. (wires behind headlight) <=-- Dead battery = No CLICKY when button pushed. While idling, I can push button and starter spins... (I know, bad and shouldn't do it)



I haven't rode enough in darkness to have noticed it until recently. But after the starter button/dead battery issue I would notice it. I've refilled the battery and plan on charging it soon to see if this fixes it. I have been working in the backyard. Recently noticed after I had the rear tire replaced when I parked it that the headlight was dim.



I can kickstart no problems. 2 or 3 kicks. Idle it's bright any throttle dims. Choke out it dims. Choke in after warm it flickers from what is what I think it should be brightness wise to dim.

Going to cut and take off turn signals to isolate those as the problem. There is a blue wire under seat that was spliced by previous owner. I'm going to cut out the butt connector and solder that. Fixed ..


Then I'm going to trace the big red wire in vicinity of headlight as the previous owner said it was cause of starter not working at times. Big red 3 wire connector... Cleaned the prongs of what was visible - Wiggled while idling and no difference.

Also going to hopefully find out test locations for the rectifier or whatever(don't know names of those parts or what output should be). No clue here.... Can kinda read schematics, but pictures of what I should be doing would be nice.






Anyone have any ideas ?? I'm at my wits end on this and don't know what else I can do besides ignore it as I don't ride it as often as Shadow nor do I ride much at night.





 
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#2 ·
What is in black was a personal conversation between me and Operose. Red is what I did tonight while I had someone to hold flashlight.



I can tell you this much. My battery is dead. I haven't charged it though.

I've added led turnsignals and brake lights. Turn signal switch broke a few days ago. <=- Clipped Wires this evening since they aren't working. Ends are covered.

I've also added a moose racing head light with separate high and low beams.

The problem has happened on and off since I bought the bike. I know I have a loose connection somewhere in the harness as I was able to jiggle the wires sometimes when it wouldn't start with the button. (wires behind headlight) <=-- Dead battery = No CLICKY when button pushed. While idling, I can push button and starter spins... (I know, bad and shouldn't do it)



I haven't rode enough in darkness to have noticed it until recently. But after the starter button/dead battery issue I would notice it. I've refilled the battery and plan on charging it soon to see if this fixes it. I have been working in the backyard. Recently noticed after I had the rear tire replaced when I parked it that the headlight was dim.



I can kickstart no problems. 2 or 3 kicks. Idle it's bright any throttle dims. Choke out it dims. Choke in after warm it flickers from what is what I think it should be brightness wise to dim.

Going to cut and take off turn signals to isolate those as the problem. There is a blue wire under seat that was spliced by previous owner. I'm going to cut out the butt connector and solder that. Fixed ..

Then I'm going to trace the big red wire in vicinity of headlight as the previous owner said it was cause of starter not working at times. Big red 3 wire connector... Cleaned the prongs of what was visible - Wiggled while idling and no difference.

Also going to hopefully find out test locations for the rectifier or whatever(don't know names of those parts or what output should be). No clue here.... Can kinda read schematics, but pictures of what I should be doing would be nice.



Anyone have any ideas ?? I'm at my wits end on this and don't know what else I can do besides ignore it as I don't ride it as often as Shadow nor do I ride much at night.




Update..... I have This Headlight and just realized it is using a 55w Bulb low and High. Only one lights when selected. Could this be the issue ?? ?!!!! ????
 
#3 ·
Your battery is has a shorted cell and the headlight bulb wattage is too high.
 
#4 ·
Well, tomorrow when the sun comes up, I will pull the bulbs and see if I can find lower wattage ones. Working on either replacing/recharging the battery. Going to try to charge first (obviously), I've topped the water off this evening (had my little helper out there for a few minutes holding flashlight again. If not, I don't mind kicking since it's 2 most of the time to get it started.



Thanks Lizrd
 
#5 ·
You mentioned the rectifier and I suppose you are like me, got to fix it and need a forum. Don't want to replace stuff until you are reasonably sure its toast. Look at the "How to diagnose a rectifier" that I was guided thru on the next page back, and then, in the end (2nd page) the very simple

test that I thought I was asking, day one. The Yamaha Shop Manual says "Replace" too easy for me, you are in better hands here.

Greybeard
 
#8 ·
Remember that the '88-'01 system not only has less output than the later system, it produces most of it in the upper rpm range. If you run loads at the ragged edge of output, odds are that the only time your battery gets topped off is during top speed runs, if at all. This is very hard on regulators and batteries.



The later system is 3 phase and not only has more total output, it also has more output across the rpm range. It's far less subject to the above, but if you push the limits the same stuff will occur.



If you haven't fried your regulator yet, lose the 55, get the battery checked out and get all the loads minimized with LED's and such BEFORE increasing the wattage.



Greybeard has a thread on checking the regulator.
 
#10 ·
You'll have a heckuva time finding a 35 at an auto parts store.



Is the existing halogen a 3 blade, hi-lo bulb with one of the terminals unused, or a dedicated hi-only element with 2 blades?
 
#12 ·
OK. Yer skrewt.




I got nuttin'. Maybe you should try the incandescant builb instead.
 
#13 ·
Mike,

I'll be glad to try again, for everybody in that thread that helped out. Try this:

1)Find the Rectifier/Regulator. It is close to the negative post on the battery, since the fat black wire goes directly to it and through it and into the frame. From it come the 3 whites and 1 red, all in one connector.

2)Take off this connector. Drop the wire.

3) On the rectifier end, with key off, connect your tester on the lowest Ohms setting, to the outside of the case, or the big black wire.

4) To each of the four contacts inside the rectifier, you must not have any reading. It means electricity from your stator is running into the

negative side of your battery. Trash it.

5) Lightly coat a dab of dielectic grease to your connectors before reinstalling. I like it better than soldering in most of my connections.



I did not find a TW size battery at Wal-Mart. I think it was Battery World, or Battery-Mart; some such closer to denser populations then I like.

They replaced it even though I couldn't produce a receipt when a cell went bad. I think it was upper 30's. Keep your receipt in case its a habit!

-GB
 
#15 ·
Dirty stator? It's a '91 so it could be rusty or dirty. When you grab the throttle the spark requires more energy and the stator can't generate enough for everything and you get dim lights. ***the stator is part of an assembly that generates electricity (re: alternator, to keep it simple).
 
#17 ·
Oh, before you go digging into the stator, just get a new battery. When I had a low battery and hit the blinker, the headlight would pulse the same as the blinker...charging system couldn't keep up with all the demand at that low of rpm (waiting for the green light).
 
#23 ·
I really meant the other stuff around the headlight, but I think we need to get on to the stator. In the down-loadable manual, there is a section on electrical near the end, "Supplementary Service Manual" which is anything after 1987, but they don't bother to tell you that. Go to Electrical, and you should come out at p.6 or so, scroll on down to p.10, and there is a picture of the "3 Whites" and the connector. They go to 9 coils in the stator, and the other way, to the rectifier you just got done checking. But you don't need the book.... :



Just disconnect the connector, and check each of the three whites to each other in every fashion. All should read .32- .39 Ohms. If not, the book says your stator is no good, but they are trying to sell parts. Well, I am trying not to buy them. I had a bad wire, which was shorting and gave me a wacky reading on one pair. I think that all three should be close, but I would think 'within specs' is more of a good idea. At least for the 300$ they want

for a new one. And my dim lights would get dimmer when I revved up.--GB
 
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