05 runing like new... and other stories
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  1. #1
    Senior Member MrDNA's Avatar
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    Howdy folks,



    Just put the carburetor back in the 05 last night after finally getting the parts from Stadium Yamaha (10 days) . Cranked right up this morning and runs better than the stock 2010 TW by a long shot right out of the box. I just went to a #128 main and 2 washers, so I'm not done tuning yet, but I'm now going to bring the 2010 up to a #130 main and play with that before revisiting the 05.



    Got the 05 used in March, and knew I had a carb problem when I bought it since it was overflowing. After cleaning it twice now, and finally rebuilding it, it's alive! My only advice on TW carbs is to not just read the forums, but actually do what they say to do. If you don't QWERTY will stomp all over you, and you will deserve it. Truth is, I don't know if it was the new jets or the fact that I finally soaked the carb body for a few days in cleaner, but I'm leaning towards the carb soak and a blocked air passage on the pilot side. I also changed the intake manifold O-ring and the pilot screw O-ring, so it could have been either of those too. Either way, I'm amazed it got so screwed up in 5 years and 800 miles. Shows to go you that you never know what was in the gas tank or for how long.



    The only other real issue I've encountered with the 05 is when the two top motor mounts vibrated loose around 1000 miles. Boy, you'll know when that happens! Funny thing about this is that once I got the gas tank off, the bolts were actually sitting right on top of the head. Are we feeling lucky? Yes we are, but luck aside, I still went over the whole bike with a torque wrench. Having checked the new 2010 and the used 05, and finding loose bolts on both, I'd agree you should ALWAYS check these things on a newly acquired TW, regardless of source.





    In other news, I've had this $25 volt meter/clock/temperature gauge strapped to the cross-member of the handle bars on the 2010 for about 10 days now and I have to say that I really like having it. Brighter would be better at night, but it's nice to have the information available, especially the temperature. We'll see if my silicon job holds up through winter. I'll post a picture of my mounting method as soon as work settles down.



    Another thing I ran across recently gave me a FREE fix to something that has been bothering me since I first took the seat off one of our TW's: The positive battery terminal is right next to the bike frame, and the bike frame isn't shielded. There's a potential screwdriver problem there! The PO of the 05 had put a couple of layers of black electric tape on the frame to deal with it.



    Well, our local STARBUCKS got a bunch of new metal chairs and tables recently, and on the back side of the chairs, there are little plastic sleeves that snap over the tubular legs. They are supposed to protect the chairs when they are stacked, but apparently the employees don't know that, because I kept seeing them on the ground. I finally picked a couple up and tried it out on the TW frame next to the positive battery terminal. Perfect fit - it's the part that Yamaha forgot. So... if you have a Starbucks or whatever with metal chairs near by... and you happen to see some funny plastic things on the ground...
    Something witty...



    2005 & 2010 TW200

  2. #2
    Senior Member TuggerHiller's Avatar
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    I saw that today..........just had my first electrical problem tonight...........loose positive terminal (lower bolt)......saw nothing to protect from arcing and thought maybe some pipe insulation would do, but if my barristas are as haphazard as yours, a cup of coffee is in my future..
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  3. #3
    Banned qwerty's Avatar
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    Grounded terminal should always be disconnected before touching the load terminal on any automotive application. On a TW, if an unfused + anything is loose, disconnect the - before touching the +, fix the +, then reconnect the -. That is the "proper" way to do it. I don't want to hear it when you weld your new screwdriver to the frame.




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  5. #4
    Senior Member MrDNA's Avatar
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    Got a couple of follow up photos:



    This it the plastic thing I found that can be snapped on the frame. I agree that we SHOULD disconnect the ground terminal, but this little thing WOULD stop you from welding your screwdriver to the frame in case you forgot.







    This is where I placed it next to the positive battery terminal.







    Last but not least, this is a picture of the carburetor off the bike and in a vice to keep it level so I could check the fuel level in the float bowl. I don't remember where I saw it out here, but checking this parameter is way easier like this then when it's on the bike, and if you have to make adjustments, it's right there. Kind of mickey mouse, but I had a good level on top and it was right.



    Something witty...



    2005 & 2010 TW200

  6. #5
    Senior Member lizrdbrth's Avatar
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    Those plastic sleeves are called "Metro inserts". You can sometimes find them in good hardware stores with the Dorman drawers.



    I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you.

    Powdercoated '87 frame, extended swingarm, YZ fork legs, ATV tire, 14/55, XT350 tank, spliced quick-release seat, disc brake conversion, beeg headlight, beeger rack, Lizrdcooler, Lizrdventz and bunch of other stuff all covered in invisible ink.

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  7. #6
    Senior Member TuggerHiller's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by qwerty View Post
    Grounded terminal should always be disconnected before touching the load terminal on any automotive application. On a TW, if an unfused + anything is loose, disconnect the - before touching the +, fix the +, then reconnect the -. That is the "proper" way to do it. I don't want to hear it when you weld your new screwdriver to the frame.


    +1



    Been there done that with a wrench and an old chevy fender

    learned long ago( at least back in the 60s ) any electrical repair should be done with negative disconnected
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  8. #7
    Senior Member admiral's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MrDNA View Post
    The only other real issue I've encountered with the 05 is when the two top motor mounts vibrated loose around 1000 miles.


    I've not had this happen, but I think it's good you put it out there. I'm guessing some TW riders have had no reason to take their tank off, but should they, this would be a good thing to inspect in addition to checking all the other nuts and bolts.



    I myself have only had one bolt vibrate loose several years ago. It was the right side foot peg mount bolt that the cycleracks mounts too. I had purchased the cyclerack from the dealership, which they put on. I think it was the second year I owned it, when I was out on the trail and noticed the rack wiggling. Stopped and found the bolt missing. Had some wire along and performed a field expedient fix until I got home and replaced the bolt.



    Also, last winter tore the TW down and put back together. Used thread lock along with proper torque. So far no loose nuts and bolts...on the TW that it !



    I and I hope others, appreciate you posting your experiences. Thanks
    Hidden Content A ride in the woods helps me relax and release tension. The fact I'm dragging a body should be entirely irrelevant?

  9. #8
    Senior Member MrDNA's Avatar
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    They must have come loose when my son and I were riding in the dirt and he didn't notice. I got on after not riding it for a few weeks and was happy it started easily, but about halfway down the block I realized I had a problem.
    Something witty...



    2005 & 2010 TW200

  10. #9
    Senior Member TuggerHiller's Avatar
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    stoooopid me .....I have wire loom laying around ........ a 4 inch piece fit between the zip ties on the frame and covers the area just fine........now if I can find those winter golashes I had laying around, I can mount them as hand warmers like in the picture I think qwerty posted
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    Cyclerack/Dual Northern Tool Boxes/AVG Miglia Helmet/Infamous Tubes/Fanny Pack/ATV Tank bag

  11. #10
    Senior Member Stromper's Avatar
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    Seafoam



    What it is supposed to do in higher concentations

    is dissolve old deposits over night while things sit



    Of course stabil when / if you think she's gonna

    sit for like a month etc.



    They also speak of tier 1 gas like Shell

    that will not make as big a mess



    A Honda Generator engineer says they have

    had a few returns where the Ethanol measures 15 +%

    which will start show problems

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